cliffcoggin

Sorry Chris, I will not download anything from untrusted sources. If you would care to put it on Youtube or the like I will be happy to listen to it.

Alternatively one could find the same information with a few key presses: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=audi+a1+boot+dimensions&ia=web

No apologies needed. Your English is infinitely better than my Albanian.

It does not sound to me like a dashboard rattle, though it is hard to be sure from a recording. To my ears it sounds like an exhaust noise.

Very possibly. If the CV joints are worn they will click when: 1. The accelerator pedal is pressed (only Americans call it a gas pedal). 2. When the accelerator pedal is released quickly at speed. 3. When the steering wheel is turned to, or close to, full lock. Of course the noise may be caused by something else, but it makes sense to check the most likely fault first, so look at the CV joints and let us know what you find.

Now this is odd. I see nothing whatsoever in Peter's post. It is completely blank, yet Magnet can clearly see some text.

It looks like a fuel filler nozzle so I guess it means low fuel level. What does the fuel guage show?

If your battery is original it may well be the problem here.

Congratulations on getting Audi to behave responsibly. I hope for a similar outcome to everyone suffering a similar problem

You won't get an answer from dominic, he has not bothered to return to the forum since posting his question. Search recent forum history and you will find similar topics with a lot of useful information.

Try this company which dealt well with my A3 for years and I thoroughly recommend it. Michael Summers is reliable and honest. Nearly as important is that you get to speak directly to him. Whitstable to Biddenden is more than an hour of travel, but desperate times call for desperate measures. https://msautoservices.com/

I hope I am not muddying the waters here, but I wonder if this topic is related to yours which also concerns the "mild hybrid".

Thank you. Politeness is a rarity here.

Check the CV (constant velocity) joints in the drive shafts. It is likely they are worn.

Tell the insurer. If the insurer tells you it makes no difference to your policy and premium you have lost nothing.

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.

A few more details of the car and your asking price would be useful.

That's a good idea, but let me add a word of caution. Many of those products contain caustic soda which can wreak havoc on many metals, paints, and fabrics, as well as human tissue, so flush it well afterwards with lots of water.

Andy. You're right, the turbo should last a lot longer than 5000 miles. Possibly the oil feed is not sufficient, though I would not know what to do about that. A question for you first: has the car or engine modified in any way for better performance?

Now we are getting somewhere. If I understand correctly the right front & rear door locks always work, the left front & rear door locks sometimes work, while the boot lock never works. The drivers door lock is the important one here as it controls all the others. I suspect there is a fault on that lock and suggest you get it tested either by an auto electrician or by Audi. It is not an uncommon problem.

If you can get into the car I presume that means the doors do unlock. Correct? And is that both doors or just one?

If I recall correctly each sidelight has a separate fuse, so the problem is more likely to be the switch. Fuse and fusebox locations will be in the car handbook if such things exist still.

Thanks for letting us know.

I am not sure what is not working so please clarify whether you mean the electronic fob, the metal key, or the central locking mechanism within the car.

Fair enough, but if you don't mean a delayed response what do you mean?