cliffcoggin

Jess. You need to bleed the air out of the fuel system all the way from the tank to the injectors. Usually the injectors have to be removed and the engine cranked until nothing but fuel comes out of the injectors. It's a messy stinking job which your partner should carry out to ensure he never runs out of fuel again. <G>

Lindsay I am not sure what fault you are describing. Are you saying the key won't enter the barrel, won't turn once entered, or won't operate the switch once entered and turned?

Hello Geoff. (Love the beer name.) I can't be certain, but I would expect sports suspension to have tighter shock absorbers as well as shorter springs so its possible you would have to change both. A change may also affect the steering geometry so you need to be certain of the answers before committing to altering anything.

Chris. Car dealers are not renown for their charity and you are now discovering why the car was so cheap. In my view if the engine is clapped out, then it's likely the rest of the drive train will also be marginal and the car will become a money pit in the years to come. I'd get rid of it as soon as possible.

Please do Martyn, particularly with the source of the unit and your comments on it as I am interested in getting one.

Was the fuel consumption normal before you changed the induction kit? If so, the solution is obvious.

It is possible that non-sensor pads have been fitted as an economy measure.

You mean the seller doesn't know?

Phillip. As Tom said, hot brakes would only be caused if they were binding, and that's easy to diagnose: if one or more wheels feel unusually hot (more than body temperature) after a journey then the brakes are binding. Does the car pull to one side under braking? That's another symptom of a brake binding. I suspect your problem is more likely to be defective master cylinder seals or water contaminated brake fluid.

So tell us what the thing is that is rattling because it doesn't look like a fuel line. How did you cure your problem?

Despite the error message about the aerial, it seems too much of a coincidence that the radio does not work at the same time as a CD is jammed in. Is there no way to forcibly extract the CD with snipe nose pliers for example once the radio is dismantled? Perhaps that would enable the radio to be selected.

That's done the trick Trevor. Many thanks.

I suspect the problem is that the pop up is an intrinsic part of this site, so no matter what extra filters I install in Chrome OS and UbO the thing keeps appearing. I'll keep looking for ways to eradicate it, but if unsuccessful I shall withdraw from the forum.

The past few days a pop-up advertisement for Driven has appeared on this forum whenever I open the site. My ad-blocker (Ublock Origin) is normally very effective at stopping these horrid intrusions but it has not worked this time. Has anybody found a solution yet?

Pete. That is not simply a plug to seal the hole. It is the mounting grommet that holds the lamp unit in place, so it needs to be the right part to grip the metal peg. I have no idea what Audi calls it but most mechanics would recognise the term grommet.

In that case I am out of my depth. I do know that speakers have to be the right impedance for the radio (i.e. matched for the output strength,) but whether that is the problem or you lack some other adaptor for the extra cable I have no idea. Let's hope somebody else has can help.

I am a little confused. Is it the new speakers that aren't working properly or the new radio?

Forgive me for being blunt Anthony but if I had just bought a car with a indicator fault, a washer fault, a glowplug fault, and a loss of coolant, I would be hammering at the seller's door demanding a refund.

In the old days before electronics and canbus and computers were fitted to cars, that sort of problem was usually caused by a bad earth at the lamp unit.

I don't know about changing the pump, but before doing so I would check that power is getting to the connection first, in case the switch or the relay is faulty.

Will do, but it's likely to be few months when the weather is warmer.

Wiring diagrams are available on the internet: https://www.google.co.uk/search?newwindow=1&rlz=1CAACAH_enGB721GB721&ei=k3CAWuCoIKycgAaJrY6QCw&q=audi+a3+wiring+diagram&oq=audi+a3+wiring+diagram&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i7i30k1l3j0j0i7i30k1l5j0.20893.23815.0.28899.26.13.0.0.0.0.334.1690.1j4j1j2.8.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..23.2.465....0.FnXwdfkDtUI I wonder if your two problems are related i.e. the previous owner removed the head lining trying to get the demister wiring.

Reece. Search this forum for "door lock". There are plenty of replies to others with a similar problem.

I was keen to do something similar a year ago but the concensus was that it was not possible. Since then I have found that kits are available such as these www.xcarlink.co.uk/product.php?productid=22&cat=4&page=1 Youtube videos show how to fit such kits and they appear to work, so I expect to install one if I can find a way to hide the cables and adapter.

Congratulations Les. I have heard that A3s were prone to rear wash leaks, but did not realise there were consequences other than a wet boot.