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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Worn alternator belts make that sort of sound.
  2. Dogbone link. I like that name Stevey, and must try to remember it. It describes the part exactly.
  3. Ir would be worth getting the battery professionally tested because defective batteries can play havoc with the car's sensitive electronics. I stress a professional test because a simple multi meter reading of 12.5 volts will not reveal any internal faults. Let us know the outcome of the test before we explore other causes for limp mode.
  4. How old is the battery?
  5. Does your car have anti-rock strut connecting the top of the engine to the bulkhead? If it does, check the rubber bush.
  6. So did you get the sidelights to work? I've never heard of rain lighting. Can you explain further?
  7. The most likely culprits are the CV (constant velocity) joints. Does the knock become worse when the steering is at full lock?
  8. Neil. I imagine that has all the necessary connections. The next step is to inspect and test the wiring harness to the door.
  9. Simon. If you frequently have a heavy load in the boot it would be worth investigating whether upgraded springs are available, and of course change both for a matched pair as Gareth mentioned.
  10. If that means you are unsure which fuse to use you should choose carefully. You need to find one that is not permanently live (i.e. only comes on with the ignition,) else you will flatten the battery overnight. Your plan of using a piggy back fuse is a good one as it maintains the principle of one device per fuse. Check that you can close the fusebox cover once the extra fuse is fitted. Doing precisely this job on my A3 some years ago was what led me to this forum.
  11. If the 7.5 amp fuse supplies some other circuit in addition to the satnav I suggest you leave it, or even uprate it depending on the total electrical load it carries.
  12. Does courtesy not exist any more?
  13. Did the new lock have an integral switch, or did you attach the old switch. The other thing to look at is the wiring between door and pillar. The wires had a habit of breaking in the older A3s.
  14. Kelly. For information there are two stages to starting an engine: 1/ cranking, (or turning over,) when the starter spins the engine to suck air and fuel into it; 2/ ignition, (or firing,) when the fuel/air mixture in the engine ignites. Yours is clearly not turning over so likely it is an electrical fault somewhere between the switch and the starter relay. I doubt that the starter motor itself is faulty because the instrument lights stay bright. Your plan to recover it a garage is a good one.
  15. An internet search found this place at Barnard Castle, which is a county away from you. Perhaps you can find others a bit closer. https://www.carrosserie.co.uk/
  16. In that case I would agree a servo fault. Quite how to fix it I am not sure, so let's wait for other opinions.
  17. You'll be lucky. Bear in mind that the more it slips, and it will get progressively worse, the more fuel the car will burn.
  18. Wear of the tyre shoulders is commonly caused by the wrong amount of toe-in or the tyre pressure being too low. The toe-in is easily corrected at decent tyre shops, though it is a pointless adjustment unless you first ensure that all the steering and suspension joints & bushes are in top condition with no wear or slack.
  19. You are right that the clutch is slipping, which is not surprising if it is the original clutch.
  20. It's refreshing to see praise for Audi nowadays. Thanks for letting us know.
  21. Does the brake pedal feel spongy when pressed hard while the car is at rest? If so, it would be worth eliminating the possibility of air in the hydraulic system by bleeding it. Use fresh hydraulic fluid as old fluid can degrade as it absorbs moisture from the air.
  22. I have no idea about cost. Look on Ebay for an indication, though I would be wary of the quality of anything bought via Ebay. If you bought the car from a dealer take it back and let him bear the cost. If it was a private purchase then it is your responsibility. Either way I am curious why anybody would buy a car that is making smoke without first investigating the cause and cost of repairing.
  23. Robert. If there are no visible coolant leaks around the engine, it is likely the EGR (exhaust gas recycle) cooler is leaking internally.
  24. Fair enough Richard, you had not initially made clear how knowledgable you were about towing. If you are putting the correct weight on the tow ball and the car springs are unduly compressed then doubtless they need to be changed. Whether standard or uprated springs are required I do not know, but as Gareth advised, the original springs will likely be weaker and shorter than they were when new.
  25. Aid. The click is not normal, but exactly what causes it depends on how much you disturbed when replacing the clutch. The possibilities I can think of are: 1/ Loose master cylinder nuts. 2/ Insecure hydraulic hose between master and slave cylinders. 3/ Loose slave cylinder nuts. 4/ Incorrectly fitted release bearing. 5/ Incorrectly fitted release lever. There may be other causes I have not thought of, so let us wait for other opinions.
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