cliffcoggin

Yes you have excessive pressure in the crankcase that is blowing the oil out, and it is nothing to do with the filler cap. The usual cause is the EGR (exhaust gas return) valve being blocked. A less likely cause is more blow past at the piston rings than the EGR can cope with, though that would give other symptoms such as smoke and poor performance.

Andrew/Dave. Both problems sound very like limp mode, which can happen without any warning lamps lighting up.

I agree, but it has to be admitted that finding the dipstick and checking the oil level is neither easy nor clean for anybody new to motoring.

That could be useful tip. Do you know if the level sensor need to be calibrated, or does it assume the existing level is correct and adapt itself to suit?

I believe regenerations trigger extra fuel via the normal engine injectors rather than a separate injector, but I am not certain. Let's wait for others to chip in.

Frank. I really can not believe 3/4 of a tank in 15 miles without badly affecting performance or generating enormous amounts of smoke. That equates to about one and a half miles per gallon if my arithmetic is correct! To my mind either the fuel is leaking at a considerable rate, which I am certain you would see, or the fuel guage is wrong. My money is on the fuel guage. I don't know easy it is to remove the sender from the fuel tank and replace it with a new one, but that may be the quickest way to prove the point. Ideally I would want to drain the tank then add a measured quantity of fuel before driving it until the tank is empty, but that's not really a practical proposition.

Only a little smokey? The sort of consumption you report should lead to rapid blocking of the DPF or a dense black impenetrable cloud behind the car which would get you stopped by the police. Is it possible the fuel guage is reading wrongly and the consumption is much less than you thought? Alternatively there may be a diesel leak from the fuel pipe only while the engine is running.

Very probably. It was in the BMW of a similar age that I briefly owned. Do let us know how you get on.

You may well have a leak caused for example by a blocked condenser or a faulty pressure switch. I suggest the same as Steve, an aircon specialist rather than a Kwikfit cowboy.

Mark. DAB has always been patchy depending on geography, so I guess it will be worse than normal in your region. Having said that, many radio reception faults are caused by a poor aerial connection so it would be worth checking yours as a first step.

Agreed, which I'll bear in mind for the future.

Many folk post video or audio recordings of strange sounds that can rarely be heard by us. Owners become attuned to the sound of their own cars, and can immediately hear odd sounds that others can not. Sorry, but I hear nothing but a harsh exhaust note.

Is what bearings? I see or hear nothing strange.

Do please let us know of success.

Sold three times Kev? That's a nice little earner.

Ray. If nephew 2 has access to the Audi database it would be worth him getting the full service history to see if it is complete, though be aware that non Audi servicing will not appear on it. We usually recommend independant VAG specialists for servicing so you have the ideal contact.

Ray. Audi servicing will have been recorded centrally on a database and prints should be available from the dealer, but a service book is not usual nowadays. I'm surprised your nephew did not mention it.

Lack of coding means the battery may not be charging correctly, thus leading to battery damage and the sort of problem you are experiencing. I suggest once again you get it coded and hope the battery has not been ruined.

Look through recent forum history. Just two or three days ago there was a report from a member who had successfully purchased and installed updated maps.

The report mentions the 1.4 amp drain appears only temporarily then drops to 50 milliamps, which is exactly what one would expect from a sleeping car with remote locking. If that current is enough to drain the battery overnight it points once again to the battery being at fault. You told us it had been renewed, but did you code it to the car as I suggested on 23rd July.

Ah, that explains it thanks. It now makes sense.

I have been following this topic yet it is still not clear to me: 1/ if the hose in question is on the brake system or something else, 2/ what the hose has to do with the knocking noise that started the topic.

Much obliged David and G. The question of map updates occurs from time to time so it is good to know of a recommended company.

We'd be glad to read of progress.

That's good news. Can you provide a link to the company please, because I can not find it on an internet search?