cliffcoggin

If you are prepared to crawl under the car and get your hands dirty, it is easy to test the CV joints yourself. Clamp each drive shaft in turn with self-locking grips (e.g. Mole grips) and rotate to and fro. If you hear clicking and feel movement the joints are clapped out.

Nobody is asking about resetting the battery. The question, which has now been asked twice without an answer, is whether the battery was coded to the car. Unless that is done various electronic systems in the car will not work. Having said that, battery draining in 10 hours suggests there is some electrical equipment running (dashcam, radio, lights, satnav for examples) while the ignition is off, or an electrical fault. Be aware that if the new battery is completely flat it may have suffered damage and need replacement again, so it's essential to resolve the electrical fault before buying another. It would also be worth getting the alternator tested as they normally put out approximately 14.5 volts.

It sounds like a dry bearing, but beyond that I do not know.

You may have sorted it, but you have not provided a solution. If you have had a problem, then others will have as well, so how about telling us how you got it sorted?

Luke. A twenty year old low mileage car in good condition sounds too good to be true. I suspect the previous owner was an enthusiast who did more modifications than just a filter and dump valve. Is there a way to check if the ECU has been mapped for more performance?

Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be done. What in particular is "playing up"?

Your description sounds like the CV (constant velocity) joints are worn, but if the problem started immediately after work was done on the car I have to wonder if something was refitted wrongly during the gearbox repair.

It would be worth trying Ebay which has a variety of door card clips for sale.

Is this the same remapped gearbox you asked about two years ago, and failed to update us about? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/19949-rs5-2014-help/#comment-72407

What I meant by inspecting the cylinder walls was looking and feeling for a step near the top of the bores, which would indicate wear of the cylinders and/or piston rings. Ideally one would use a micrometer to measure the diameters of the worn and unworn sections, but feeling for a step is a good indication. Heavy scoring of the bores would also be bad news. Whatever the cause of the soot accumulation it still has to be dealt with by removing the head in order to clean it. The process was called de-coking back in the day when I regularly got my hands dirty and people knew what coke was.

Good Lord Gareth. Does it also have a wick carburettor and desmodromic valves?

Ricky. As Magnet said, the test needs to be done with all plugs out and the throttle wide open. Hot or cold makes no significant difference as long as all tests are done under the same conditions. Crank the engine until the pressure reading is stable, which should only take a few revolutions. The absolute readings for each cylinder are not as important as differences between cylinders, so if you find one cylinder or one bank is much lower or higher than the others you have a real problem. In your position I would not be spending money on new injectors or any other parts until the head has been taken off for inspection of the valves and cylinder bores. I would find the fundamental problem before spending, possibly wasting, money on unnecessary new parts.

I recall reading on this forum that some folk have replaced the DMF with a one piece solid flywheel. I have no idea how it affects vibration or what it costs, but it is worth reseaching.

Your first port of call should be the dealer who sold you the car.

Now you tell us. All the more reason to suspect a menu setting. Have you even looked?

I don't doubt it. It was the reason I bought a Garmin several years ago. It was cheaper than an update by the dealer and came with lifetime updates.

That's a very detailed investigation Parko, to which I can add nothing. However your mention of a bolt missing from the DPF pressure sensor makes me wonder if DPF has been mapped out, thus preventing regeneration. Is it possible to tell from all your data?

Well it was built in Sweden at a time when quality still meant something. You might be surprised to know that Sweden can have hotter summers than we do so aircon had to be reliable.

Thanks for that information Joe. We have been trying recently to investigate why some folk do not have names attached to their profiles, and logging in via Google was a suspect. You have now confirmed that the suspicion was right, which we shall pass on to the forum administrator.

Have you tried Audi?

If any of the regulars here knew the answer to your question it is likely he would have replied by now. Give it a few more days, then be prepared to look elsewhere.

I have never done this, but if you look at recent forum topics other folk have flushed their channels successfully with warm water. One fellow even used drain cleaner, though the corrosion risk would be too great for my liking.

Is the handbrake really faulty, or is the battery defective?

Is that sunroof the fixed or opening type? Opening sunroofs have rain drainage channels or pipes which can become blocked.

Dampening valve of what? Some details of what you are doing might help.