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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Adding surplus oil is not without risk. Better to establish whether the sensor is faulty than to take a chance by over-filling. As Magnet suggested, the only way to be certain is to remove and measure the qualtity of oil.
  2. Peter. See this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26979-rattle-when-engine-under-load/
  3. Sorry John, all I hear is the usual diesel clatter. It oftens happens that owners post a recording of a noise that is very apparent to them because they become attuned to it as a result of hearing it every day, but we rarely hear anything strange from a short recording.
  4. Thanks for that detailed information Mohammed. It will defintely be useful for others.
  5. I have no specific knowledge of those warranties, but in general secondhand car warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. I suggest you look very closely at the exclusions before committing money to any of them. Look too at the relevant section of this forum for your model to see if there are any common faults. Also look at professional reviews, though they tend to be cautious about criticisms.
  6. Niso. If anybody was able to help I am sure he would have done so by now. All I can suggest is that you take the car to a garage.
  7. Some of the cheap code readers are worthless. Look through the recent forum posts for a recommendation from one of the Steves who knows more about the matter than me.
  8. You won't get useful comments unless you first give us all the relevant facts. Your assumption of attitude is just that, an assumption, and a false one at that.
  9. It's likely the remapping and other work is responsible for the turbo failures, in which case I can not help. Perhaps somebody more knowledgable will offer advice.
  10. Sorry, I have no idea.
  11. You might be lucky in pricking the jets with a pin, but it is possible the blockage will simply be pushed back up the pipe, only to be pushed forward into the jet again by the water. If that happens you will need to remove the jet and back flush it with water to get rid of the dirt.
  12. So what is the fix Kev? Don't keep it a secret.
  13. Oscar. As you have discovered, there are few parts available for a 32 year old car. I suggest you try Ebay in the first instance. If that fails I believe there are companies that can fabricate new hoses at considerable expense.
  14. Gary. I am not sure I completely understand the problem even now, so let me summarise the symptoms as I read them. [1] The engine fan continues to run after switching off the ignition and removing the key. Correct? [2] The cabin fan runs when the fan switch is in the OFF position and the ignition is switched on, but when the ignition is switched off the cabin fan stops. Correct? We need to properly understand the problem before suggesting a solution.
  15. Thanks for the information Steve. That's something new I have learned.
  16. Hmm. I am not convinced. The lower flange of the crankcase still has to be cleaned so why not the upper flange of the sump?
  17. The headlights click? I am not familiar with xenon lights but I'd be surprised if there are relays within the lights. Tungsten lamps for instance have their relays well away from the light fittings, usually on or close to a fuseboard.
  18. The only single fault I can imagine that would allow both the engine fan and the cabin fan to continue running would be a failure of the ignition switch to interrupt the power supply when turned off, unlikely though that seems. Are there any other circuits, such as radio and lights for example, that are still operating when they should not be?
  19. If you bought the car from a dealer, take it back. and let him worry about it.
  20. Does it have one relay for both lights or one relay each?
  21. Where in the world are you Huzy? K is not a recognised location.
  22. Ask the mechanic to show you the fault in the old sump from where oil was leaking.
  23. Have either of you consulted a car electrician?
  24. There's no cost to typing more words Steve.
  25. Another option to consider is what is known as V2L, or vehicle to load. It's a way of taking 230 volts out of the traction battery via a charging port adaptor. It is intended for uses such as yours, and as a backup supply for low load circuits in the house. Again I do not know if it is available for your car.
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