cliffcoggin

That would seem to rule out neglect.

That's good to read. Does that mean the oil had leaked out after the first change?

Same problem may or may not have the same solution. What have you checked?

If the pin was truly welded into its socket, there must have been a high resistance at the contacts caused by corrosion, or weak springs, or dirt, or something else. Whether this was the fault of your cable, or the car, or your neglect of both is impossible to say. In the absense of evidence I think you have to bite the bullet and accept the cost. Do you charge outside? Do you refit the rubber cap on the cable at the end of every charging session?

A hood sensor perhaps you mean? Yes it could be, but if two of the wires into the door were damaged there is a good chance others are also damaged. In your position I would investigate those again before spending on a new sensor. The damage to the insulation may not be easily visible and may extend further than you expect. While you have the door card off it would be worth checking the window switch connectors are not damaged, and that any earth wires are well attached. A multi meter would also help to test continuity and the switch contacts if you have one.

Changing the latches sounds like a lot of work for something that may not solve the fault. Have you dismissed the earlier suggestions regarding the fault? As for the warning being OTT, see the green banner towards the top of each main forum page addressed to new members. It's strange that some people have excuses for not seeing forum responses but always see warnings. If your problem warranted the effort to write a question, surely it deserves as much effort to look for replies.

You could also try one of the independant workshops belonging to HEVRA. Do let us know the outcome.

That suggests to me a loose or corroded connection.

And advise your insurer.

The sticky flakey layer is a form of lacquer which is likely why paint stripper is not shifting it. Try wiping with cellulose thinners or lacquer thinners.

Is it automatic transmission? Pressing the throttle and brake pedals simultaneously will cause the drive system warning message. I don't know about the TPMS message.

Indeed you do need help, but as mentioned earlier a meter or an electrician is necessary. Changing parts at random will be an expensive solution that may not solve anything.

Glad to hear it.

I can't help, but others may be able to if you mention the brand and model number of your purchase.

If you are implying the fault was caused by the MOT tester, take it back and complain. If not, then extensive testing with a meter by yourself or an auto electrician is needed to find the short circuit.

Leaving the dip direction to the left may be acceptable for visiting cars, but I doubt it would be legal for a permanent import. How would it get through the French equivalent of an MOT test?

Done.

I'd gladly do that if only I knew which forum to move it to. There are several A4 forums.

Audi dealer.

I am intrigued. What are rear jack inserts?

Take it back to the dealer for a refund before the 30 day limit expires.

Colin. I have merged your two topics. It keeps things tidy.

Any update for us Ed?

Even the Audi part is reputed to be unreliable so it's possible your new one is faulty, in which case it would be unwise to drive the car until it goes to a garage. However I think it is more likely to be a failing battery as Steve Q mentioned because of the stop/start fault. Let's hope the diagnosis shows something.

See this https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/13415-brake-servo-restricted/#comment-47826