cliffcoggin

I doubt it Richard. Any significant modification usually invalidates the warranty, whether it is related to the problem or not. For your sake I'd be glad to be proved wrong.

I think it safe to say that we shall not hear from Martin again on this topic, so I shall stop following it.

That burnt cable would certainly explain the starting problem. I hope your mechanic is going to renew the cable rather then just wrapping bit of tape around it, and then secure the cable with a clip so that it does not flop around and wear the insulation off.

Thank you. One day somebody will bless you for that information.

Beware of cheap units on Ebay and the like. They sometimes do not come with the appropriate wiring adaptors and connections, so unless you are knowledgable and competent in such things I suggest you get the job done by a professional. There is a company in one of the back streets of Rochester I would recommend if I could remember its name.

Glad to hear you got it running. It might help others in a similar position if you would tell us some details of the Hall Effect sensor you bought. Part number, description, vendor, price etc.

A vacuum reservoir of the size shown would be hard to miss. If you don't see one perhaps it's because you don't have one. I didn't on mine.

Copyright protection.

The clicking noise usually comes from the starter solenoid which you have not mentioned yet. Has it been checked?

Please do. In the meantime I shall release your other query that I hid pending a reply here.

Jack, was the above reply of any use to you? I know you have seen it.

Having just watched a few videos on the matter I now appreciate the problem of the foam detaching from the lining. The orange foam looks very like the stuff used in upholstery that crumbles and degrades as it ages.

Fair enough. I wondered at the possibilty of staining. Can't say I like the the use of staples either. They look !Removed! awful.

If the headlinings are normally glued in place as Richard says, I wonder if it is possible to inject glue through the lining at selected spots using a syringe with a wide bore needle. It would need a non staining low viscosity glue and one would have to find the right points at which to inject, but if it works it would save the effort of removing the lining. I have no idea if it would work as I have only just dreamed up the idea. Any opinions Richard?

Tony. There is a fellow associated with this forum who pops up ocassionally and offers insurance. Adrian Flux or something similar is the name. I know nothing of him.

If it is secondhand parts you want go to a car breaker. Why the clause about upgrading?

Any comments on the above responses Mandy? I know you have seen them.

The stink may be unrelated to the DPF. For example paint or oil or underseal spilt onto the exhaust will slowly be burning off. There may even be a dead animal decomposing.

Probably, but there would be no point if the battery is damaged, so get it tested first.

If the EGR leaks, the coolant is lost into the engine and out of the exhaust. I believe it is possible to blank it off but your car will then fail the emissions test of the MOT.

A common culprit for invisible coolant losses is the EGR cooler, They have been known to leak internally yet still pass a pressure test.

It's hardly surprising a different model has different suspension. The spring will likely also differ.

Denise. I have merged your identical topics. Please do not create duplicates.

Any comment on the last three replies Dm? I know you have seen them.

It's likely to be a worn rubber bush in one of the suspension or steering links.