cliffcoggin

It's likely to be a worn rubber bush in one of the suspension or steering links.

Possibly one or more of the flaps in the ducts are not working. It's a common problem that the garage should be able to diagnose.

A wise choice.

A new screw is a much less painful solution than cutting your foot off.

Does it really need to be spelled out?

As you said, the housing is loose so it's likely the fans are hitting it or something else in the vicinity. The solution I would say is obvious.

Good. Your mechanic should have warned you of the potential for failure. Perhaps consider going elsewhere next time.

If the joint your mechanic moved was the universal joint that I mentioned and if it is still loose, then your car is in danger of suddenly losing its steering. Please get it repaired immediately.

Maybe, but lack of coding can lead to the new battery being damaged by the charging circuits so I still suggest you get it tested.

It's unfortunate that nobody here has been able to help Stuart, but please let us know of progress.

That takes me back 50 years. I must have been mad, but I got away with it.

Like Magnet, I am not convinced the water pump has anything to do with the symptoms. Before committing to any major expense I suggest you get the battery professionally tested. A failing battery can cause limp mode and false error messages, amongst other problems.

Imperfections in the sand mould can often create surface imperfections in the metal that look like cracks in the casting, or it may actually be a real crack. The only way to be certain is to take it off, clean it thoroughly, and apply a penetrating crack detector dye.

I was initially tempted to point to the universal joint in the steering column, but the sound does not match what I would expect to hear from such a joint. I suggest removing the plastic shrouds around the upper part of the column to see if there is anything out of place there.

I am not aware of alarms for gearbox oil level, only for engine oil level, but maybe I am out of date on that score. Maybe somebody else will chip in with an opinion.

Fair enough, but if you began to see oil spots on the ground where you park don't delay doing something about it.

Glad you got it sorted out.

It may well be that simple, but get it tested to be certain. And if the battery does need to be renewed, ensure it is coded to the car to ensure it is charged correctly.

If the battery is more than six years old there's a good chance it is defective, and therefore responsible for the dim lights etc. Get it tested by an auto electrician. Do not use a simple voltage meter as it will not reveal internal defects in the battery.

Agreed, and no apology needed Gareth.

Please do, as this question crops up from time to time.

I agree with you Brian, but it is proving difficult to persuade people away from the old argument that if the battery has 12 volts and cranks the engine then it must be OK. That was indeed true before the advent of electronic controls a few decades ago, but it is no longer a good enough criteria to judge the condition of a battery, as you and I and many others have discovered the hard way.

There's no doubt it is leaking oil from somewhere. That will be expensive repair, so unless you need to top up frequently I suggest you ignore it for now.

Yellow equals dim where tungsten lamps are concerned, so I am confident new bolbs would be whiter. Can I assume the lens is not cloudy and any reflector untarnished.

Mark. A musty smell is always caused by damp, and as you have found those air freshener bombs (which are only perfume) merely cover the stink for a short time. You are right about the condensate drain from the AC being blocked if there is no water on the ground beneath it. Unfortunately I don't know where the drain is on your model, or how to access it. Have you cleared the AC air intakes of dead leaves etc. below the windscreen as a start? Can you remove the scuttle cover for a better view?