cliffcoggin

Nevertheless if it is the original battery it is long overdue to be changed irrespective of any sensor fault.

No, the car is faulty and is likely to be an expensive repair. Take it back to the dealer before the 30 day limit expires.

If none of the inputs produce a sound I have to suspect the amplifier is faulty or the speakers are not connected. Of course I am assuming the unit actually has power coming into it. Does the radio show any lights or a display?

Try the different gearbox modes and let us know how they compare.

Dan. How about a longer description of the problem, and what you have tried to do about it. The extra words don't cost anything.

Unfortunately there is no simple solution to changing from one radio brand to another. Functions are different, plugs/sockets are different, wire colours are different, so there is always some wire cutting to do. To make matters worse, some Ebay sellers are not very helpful in supplying the right conversion wiring.

Sport or Drive (normal) mode. I assumed you have that option on your gearbox, but perhaps you don't.

Another member's recent experience with a Japanese import suggests you get all the paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted out by the dealer, to avoid endless confrontations with our bureaucracy yourself.

2000 rpm seems high for changing up, but that depends on how heavy your right foot is, and whether you use S or D mode. It would be as well to have it independently tested before the 30 day option to return it to the dealer expires.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Kieran. Have you any evidence that the engine is damaged? I ask because if the fuel filter is doing its job, which it appears to be, then the metal should not be getting any further and you only need to consider renewing the fuel pump and pipes.

My guess is that the car has noticed the lack of charge 20 minutes after plugging in and is sending the report. (It is known as going to sleep, and some cars can not be awakened again until unlocked.) The Hypervolt charge point knows nothing of that and will begin charging at the scheduled time. Communication between charge points and cars is supposed to meet a certain standard, but apparently the standard is open to interpretation, so some odd behaviour is not unexpected. Is there an option to disable this report in the application?

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Is the report 20 minutes after plugging in or 20 minutes after the charge begins?

Was the reply of any help Gerry?

Any comment on this Dm?

Check the earth connections.

Were the comments above of any use to you Tony?

It has now. Thanks for the update.

The fans should only run when the temperature is high. I believe there is a module that controls the fans which you may need to renew, but I do not know the details, so a first step would be to get it tested.

George. I suspect the electric cooling fans are not switching off when the engine temperature drops.

David. It might help if you gave a more detailed explanation of what you mean by lumpy power delivery, along with conditions at which it happens. Conditions like engine speed, hot or cold, load, service history, state of tyres, etc.

Gary. I have no doubt there is an electronic fault of some kind and therefore the error messages are all meaningless. I suggest you find an auto electrician.