cliffcoggin

Have you come to a decision on this Graham?

That was my first thought as well, but I would have expected the garage to have done that.

This is like trying to get blood from a stone. Unless you give us something more descriptive we shall get nowhere, so let me ask some very specific questions. [1] Just before the pump clicks off can you hear any difference in the sound of splashing as the fuel rises up the filler pipe? [2] What does the fuel guage show when the pump clicks off? [3] When the pump clicks off can how much more fuel, if any, can you get into the tank if you trickle it in? [4] In what way is filling temperamental? Details matter as we have not established yet whether you have a faulty fuel guage or a restriction in the filler pipe or a blocked breather pipe.

You aren't giving us much detail. Does fuel blow back through the fiiler pipe? Can you hear the fuel level rising up the filler pipe? In what way is filling temperamental?

If you are talking about converting from incandesant to LED, the question has been asked before. The short answer I believe is no, but search the forum history for more detail.

When steel rusts it expands, thereby pushing adjacent parts away from each other. That's why rusty bolts are a swine to remove and brake discs are pushed out of alignment.

Fuses don't just "go" for no reason. They fuse because the circuits they protect are being over loaded. Evidently the fitting of the dash cam has caused such an overload so my suggestion is that you have it removed, or re-fitted by somebody who knows what he is doing.

The simple answer to that question is never to buy another diesel car of any brand that relies on Adblue. The system has been troublesome since its introduction. However that does not help you at the moment. I have read elsewhere on this forum of an additive that is claimed to solve the problem, but I don't recall its name or have any experience of it.

Yes.

Jordan. Voltage readings tell you nothing about the condition of the battery. To do that requires either a modern professional tester or the ability to test during a 200 ampere discharge, neither of which are available to most people. Nor does the fact that the battery cranks and starts the engine mean that is in good condition. The electronics on the car require a stable power supply, not just any old voltage between 10 and 16 volts as was the case years ago. A failing battery can not supply that stability, leading to spurious electronic faults that come and go at random. Limp mode, loss of radio presets, loss of air con are some of the faults that can arise. The age of your battery is not as important as its internal condition which can only be tested as mentioned earlier, though a life of five years seems to be all we can expect nowadays. I suggest you buy a new battery of decent quality, not one of the cheap unknown brands, and get it coded to the car to avoid spoiling it. Exide and Varta are two names that come to mind, though other folk in the forum can advise better than me.

Those are common symptoms of a failing battery. Get it professionally tested if you want confirmation, and get the new battery coded to the car.

Suicide birds is what I call them. I don't object to their urge for self destruction, but why must they inflict so much damage to innocent cars?

New battery needed. Don't forget to get it coded to the car.

Do you really mean the tank can not be filled, or is the problem actually that the fuel guage does not show full?

No it is not good. The battery will have been damaged by being fully discharged and it will let you down again. As Gareth said, it's time for a new battery.

Perhaps the family member who fitted the dash cam has disconnected the compass. Have you asked him?

Ah, I thought it was the new clutch that failed.

Extended warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. That applies to all brands of car and all dealers, new or secondhand. They invariably exclude anything you might reasonably want to claim on.

Thanks Brian. Given the number of blocked heaters being reported here recently your videos should be useful to many folk.

So the new clutch only lasted five weeks? I have to wonder if it was the leaking oil that wrecked it or the soaking in Coke. Are you aware that Coke contains phosphoric acid? Personnally I would not be putting highly stressed components in an acid bath.

Good point Gareth, and at less than a pound per fob battery that is the first thing I would do. That's why I asked Smaira if the metal key inserted in the lock barrel works, because that would eliminate any electronics from the problem. We have not had that clarification yet.

Sorry, no idea.

The sound of a relay and the dip in engine speed points to a faulty seat motor. A computer diagnosis should confirm.

I understand that the engine does not turn over, but are there are no ignition or other lights on the panel?

I am not clear if it is just the remote operation of the key that is faulty or if the metal key also does not operate the locks. Assuming you can get into the car, what happens when you switch the ignition on?