Steve Q

Definitely.

Who

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂

No

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I have not done it, but the wire will all terminate within the tailgate at connectors that will unplug. That is the only way they can wire a car. Just take the new tailgate and remove the inner liner and trace out the wires to each termination point, should be fairly straightforward. Wires should be at the 3rd brake light, one on either side of the defroster and one at the radio antennae(top 3 defroster lines). That should be all of the wires in that loom. Should be 3-4 plugs in total possibly 5 if the radio is plugged in on both sides, which I doubt. As a help, tie string to the ends of each connector so as you pull them out you will be able to pull hte connectors back in from your wiring harness. Make sense? Just will save you lots of cursing and screaming trying to fish the wires through the metal is all. I believe the interior fabric panel is on with clips, don't forget to remove the screw holding the pull handle on as well. Just cut and splice. You'll have to pop off the center panel an C pillar panel. Also this link is a workshop guide. But be warned you'll need to cross off some ads etc. Worth a read though as its a step by step guide to the boot: https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/tt_quattro_coupe/v6-3.2l_(bhe)/body_and_frame/doors_hood_and_trunk/trunk/liftgate/trunk/liftgate_interior_trim_panel/component_information/service_and_repair/tailgate_trim_removing_and_installing/ Hope that helps.

The question is it worth the risk? I know if my car had had that extensive work I wouldn't be selling it straight away as I'd want my use out of it. The first sign the dsg box has missed a service is that the gear changes won't be smooth abd it may not engage all gears such as reverse. If you were to go ahead I'd make a gearbox oil change a first priority. As Gareth has said you need an independent inspection from the RAC/AA or similar. If the seller refuses you to have this done then definitely walk away. As clearly he or the car has something to hide. Cheers Steve

I guess this will depend on how powerful the charger is. Normally, a car battery often holds 48 amps so if you charge it at 1 amp, it will take you 48 hours. Similarly, if you charge your car battery at 4 amps, the total time to make the battery fully charged is about 12 hours. however you'd be surprised how many electrical/mechanical problems can occur by a failing battery. My advice would be to change that first to see if it helps remedy the other problems. cheers Steve

Game

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂 Gareth raises a good point about the suspension, it will be a lot firmer with three lower ride height, bigger wheels and lower profile tyres. . But do check if it has the optional extra air suspension. It does give a lovely ride, but boy is it expensive to fix if it goes wrong. And at the age of the car compressors, airbags and level sensors will start to fail. I personally would try and pick one with air suspension as it's less hassle both financially and time when it does break. Here's a YouTube video which may help too: Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum Alan, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Is that price paid for the engine what he paid? I say that as I suspect Audi may have done good will and paid X amount towards the new engine and fitting, ie 25% or 50% as an example. Audi would not fit a reconditioned engine under warranty, it would be new. However a non main dealers would probably happily for a reconditioned engine. The invoice will tell you if it was main dealers etc. Exactly, why is it being sold after having a new engine. I'd be very suspicious abd if it were me I'd be looking at buying from a dealer instead. Cheers Steve

Scout

Bet you could get a replacement on eBay for reasonable money.

How strange. Unless the MMI itself has failed? See if you can do a factory reset which I think you can do from the owners manual. Cheers Steve

Hey Carl, Q7 S line package generally includes * Leather seating surfaces or half leather * Sport suspension * Front grill and rear side moldings with S-line badge * Aluminum interior door sills with S line logo * S line front and rear bumpers * Brushed aluminum beltline trim * S line 3 spoke steering wheel (shift paddles on auto tiptronic models only). See has a 4 spoke wheel. * 20" S line wheels with 275/45 all- terrain tyres. Where the suspension will differ from this is if the car has add air suspension added as an extra. the front bumper has an additional apron that's painted and a different grill on the s-line. Down the side of the lower doors the s line has painted mouldings whereas the SE has bare plastic. The rear bumper on the s line has a different rear balance too. interior wise you might find the s line may have better levels of kit unless additional premium packages were added to an se. The s line gets sportier front seats with better bolsters and knee support. Bare in mind you may have been able to order sports seats as an extra on a se. If it were me I'd have an s line. Hope I've helped Cheers Steve s line. Spec Se spec S line rear bumper S line interior note the different seat base. Se interior S line steering wheel Se Steering Wheel. Also note different seat base to s line seat base.

You're welcome, glad we could help 🙂 Please keep us posted on how you get on. Cheers Steve

Funny

Death

Welcome to the forum, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Here's a YouTube video which will help: Cheers Steve

Hi Mike, Is the CD player in the glovebox illuminated? If its not excepting discs it's sounds like it's not working. Might be worth removing it and checking the power supply with a multimeter. Cheers Steve

Line

You're welcome 😊 hmm good question. I'm wondering if it could be the throttle body or carb?

Create

Yep Gareth has answered the sensor question. Please keep us posted on how you get on. Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum Ian, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Is it worth checking the earthing points? Or could it be an idle control valve? I know they're prone to failing on the Audi 80 of this era with the 2.0 engine. Also I found this method online: "Just pull the fuse(s) for the ECU/ignition timing, wait a few mins then replace them. Next turn the ignition on for 10 seconds, but DO NOT start the engine or move the throttle, then switch off restart the engine (still without moving the throttle). the idle rest to normal and everything was back to normal" Or my final suggestion is a failing/sticking throttle body. Cheers Steve