Steve Q

Welcome to the forum Graeme, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Glad it's sorted. Is it worth checking the runners to make sure there's nothing jamming it. Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 😊 Think you're right with your diagnosis of the problem. The switch is located on the gearbox. Here's a link with a diagram: https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a4+avant/a4/2003-249/9/919-919061/ Hope it helps Cheers Steve

Rabbit

Buck

Hey Dave Celtic tuning claim up to 229bhp on their stage one remaps. Here's the link: https://www.celtictuning.co.uk/services/performance-stats/audi/q7-4m-2015/diesel/3-0-tdi-214-bhp-2015-ECU-remap-chiptuning/stage-1 Angel Tuning recommend on increase of 50bhp and 80lb/ft torque from the standard engine on a stage 1 remap. There website: http://www.angeltuning.co.uk/audi-q7-3-0-tdi-remapping-and-dpf-removal-and-tuning/ Hope I've helped 🙂 Cheers Steve

Bob's

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂

You're about 45 mins from me.

Parts

Welcome to the forum Jay, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Cheers Steve

Very nice, does sound like an interesting career. The CTS is a nice car. And regarding your holiday I think you'll be lucky. We have another 3 weeks of lockdown here at least. I can't see us being back to normal till September to be honest. Cheers Steve

Hi Martyn, I think if you look near to the battery you should find a grommet or two, which come out the back of the glovebox. You may need to remove the back of the glovebox to get at them from that side. In failing that I think there's one near the ECU. You'll have to remove the ECU housing to get at it. To do that you have to remove the wipers to get at all the torx screws. Another more way out option is to take the wire via the pollen filter housing. Cheers Steve

Hi Alan, Thank you for your kind offer to help fellow members 🙂 where abouts in Nottingham are you? I live near Leicester so not too far away.

Spreadsheet

Never feel.yku have to leave me in peace. Always happy to help 🙂 What a great story. Ironically my grandad was often told the same thing by his accountant in the 70s/80s hence why he bought an Audi. Amongst other vehicles such as an Opel senator, Ford granada, new Ford escort mk2 for my dad etc. What was your business if you don't mind me asking? And what car do you drive now? Cheers Steve

Very odd you couldn't find a picture, but hope I've helped. D you got the answer you were looking for 🙂 Would hope it survives but the 100 model is so rare now. Only ever seen one or two in the flesh. Such lovely looking vehicles too.

Hmm I wonder if the sunroof was an add on by webasto or Britax. Clearly a very rare car. I wonder if it's still around?

So today would have been Simply Audi show at Beaulieu today 🙁 so I thought, let's have a virtual car show. Post the best pics of your ride. And go 🙂

Furniture

Welcome to the forum, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 That is unusual that you've not found anything on Google. If i remember rightly the common models in the UK in the early 70s were LS and GL. LS being top of the range (my grandad had one of those). I think later on S for the coupe and CS was added in the 80s but there was a 5E, CD CE and L in the late 70s. But I think you're right, Audi first used the SE badge was in 1970s here's a 1976 brochure on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233195447736 Can't find any info older than 1976 unfortunately. SE badging was also used extensively on the next generation Audi 100 in the 1980s and think the SE trim ran from 1983-1991. Picture of the next generation 100 SE on a J plate but was a 1991 model. Link to the 5E brochure which was fitted with a five cylinder engine. There's a brochure for on on eBay. Obviously the 5E is very close to the SE badging. Makes me wonder why they used 5E. Here's the link to the later 5E brochure if you're interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302277902095 Please see attached picture of a 100 5E and the next Audi 100 see model. Hope I've helped and not bored you to death. Please note I don't have any connection to the eBay sellers of those brochures. Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum alike, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 The first code would indicate ba fault with the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. The sensor is located near to the airbox. The second code indicates an issue with the Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Range Bank 1. The intake manifold sits on top of the engine between the cylinder heads. Runners inside the manifold deliver air to the engine via a series of runners. Many modern vehicles use what’s called an intake manifold runner control (IMRC) system. This system varies the manifold runner length by opening and closing a series of valves. This allows for fine-tuning of the engine’s air intake, resulting in better performance and fuel economy. The valves are controlled either by a vacuum solenoid or electric actuator. Code P2015 is typically caused by one of the following: A failed intake manifold position sensor A failed IMRC actuator/solenoid A problem with the intake manifold or linkage Wiring problems How to diagnose and repair P2015 Perform a preliminary inspection Sometimes P2015 can pop up in error. Clear the code and see if it returns. If it does, the next step is to perform a visual inspection. A trained eye can check for issues such as broken wires and loose connections. If a problem is found, it should be repaired and the code cleared. If nothing is discovered, check for technical service bulletins (TSBs). TSBs are recommended diagnostic and repair procedures put out by the vehicle manufacturer. Finding a related TSB can greatly reduce diagnostic time. Check the IMRC operation A technician will typically begin diagnosis of this code by monitoring IMRC system operation on a scan tool. When connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic port, the scan tool can communicate with onboard modules. The IMRC valves can be opened and closed with the scan tool with the push of a button. Data is also displayed on the scan tool regarding IMCR operation. This allows a technician to manually operate the valves while monitoring the data to so if the system is working properly. Check the IMRC circuit Once it’s confirmed the IMRC system is not working correctly, the reason why must be determined. A technician will start by testing the IMRC circuit. A digital multimeter (DMM) can be used to ensure both the sensor and actuator/solenoid circuits are intact. If a problem is found in the circuit, the factory wiring diagram will need to be traced. Then, once the problem area has been located, the open/short circuit can be repaired. Check the intake manifold and linkage The next step is to check the mechanical portion of the IMRC system. Some IMRC systems use manifold vacuum to open and close the runner valves, while others use mechanical linkage. Operate the mechanical linkage by hand to check for proper operation. If it binds or doesn’t open the valves, the linkage or manifold should be replaced. With a vacuum controlled system, the runner valves can be opened and closed with a handheld vacuum pump. The pump is connected to the intake manifold. If the valves don’t operate as designed during this test, the manifold is probably defective. In both cases, the intake manifold may need to be removed to verify the runner valves are opening and closing properly. Either of these issues can cause rough running or poor fuel economy. Have you experienced either of those issues? Obviously if the car gets starved of air then it'll stall it might be worth getting these two faults repaired first maybe. cheers Steve

Old

Rider

You'd be surprised how many heat shields come loose on cars. They're just little aluminum border line foil and just pop rivet on. I've had numerous ones cone loose in my time.

A mixture for me from pop, rock, country etc. I do like Virgin anthems and smooth country amongst other stations.