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Hey everyone, picking up this in a couple of weeks Audi A1 1.4 TFSI CoD Sport Sportback STronic Euro 5 Model year: Fuel type: Mileage: 2013 (13) Petrol 23,900 Transmission: Engine size: Colour: Automatic 1.4L Blue This is a Japanese imported car, the KM to MPH and radio frequency have been sorted. The Sat Nav didn’t work, but not worried about this as it’s only for my partner to pop about in local. The car only comes with one key so I will need a spare one, it’s a keyless entry, any recommendations to either garages or members around the Dartford area and an ideas on cost. The picture below is the car I’m getting, been an import there no online passed MOT history anyone no of anyway to find this out ? I suppose once I get the car/ log book I’ll get the colour code, but wondering if anyone knows the colour. Also any recommendations for local (Dartford/Kent ) area for any handy with tools members. If you got this far thanks for reading and looking forward to learning about the A1. /cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.a1-forum.co.uk/attachments/img_4743-jpeg.12117/

I recently purchased a Q2 2018 Auto 2.0 diesel. I've never owned/ driven an auto before, so this could be down to expectations but I'm not impressed and believe it could be faulty. My concerns are, first gear it takes a long (longer than my expectations)time to change to second, just over 2000 rpm. When it changes to 2nd the rev counter drops significantly to below 1000 rpm and again builds up ( slowly in my opinion) to over 2000 rpm then changes to 3rd. When in 4th when accelerating there is a "pulsating" I can feel through the wheel,when it goes to five it stops. If I floor it changes in gear are "jerky" and occasionally the engine is juddering before gear change. I've never driven an auto like I said, but I expected drive to be smooth and it's really not, but like I say could be down to me. Any comments, advice on driving etc? It's full history, had gearbox serviced 2 years ago,55k on clock I'm going to call the garage this week and have a word, just don't want to conry across a numpty.,as a guy at work who has an auto Evoque has driven mine and said it seems fine to him. On motorway it's fine at high speed, smooth as anything. Comments welcome.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Thanks for the tip 👍🏻 but to be clear, it’s for the front calipers not the rear? is it possible to have wobble and vibration from front but not feel it in the steering wheel?

Does it increase with engine speed? First thought was possibly an injector problem but just a guess.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Cliff Many thanks for the information, I will have a look to see if this can be disabled. It does not really cause any trouble; I was a bit worried when I first saw the error but I now know that the car will charge with no issue. The MyAudi app for the Q4 is not as good as the app for my previous car A3 8Y, at least I could lock the car if I was away from the vehicle not available in the Q4 version.

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Was the reply of any help Gerry?

I definitely think you need to be asking the importer to contact VW Japan as they clearly can communicate in the language. If you owned it less than 30 days you can return it for a full refund

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 It's definitely not an old man car. Regarding forums you'll find most of them will show the horror stories, as people don't come onto them when everything is working and good.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi can anybody help with instructions on how to remove the A6 C8 Avant Tailgate Trim ? The rear washer water is exiting through the rear camera instead of the washer jet, so assume pipe is disconnected or damaged. Bought the e copy of Haynes manual but not a lot in there to be honest thanks pete

Hi guys I know it not a vw but I have audi a1 66 plate I bought the car last year before I bought the car the left headlight there was an issue which they repaired it was ballast costing 410 after 3 months i had the same warning light come up head light malfunction dipped beam, so scanned it with obd2 nothing came up so we bought a cheap ballast for 25 and it worked then failed after 2 days so as the orginal part was from audi we put that back in the car and it worked perfect which is weird as it had failed it worked fine for 5 months solid and tonight it decides to fail has any one experience this? I replaced the bulb too still same also also done a check on the other headlight to make sure if not electrical but nope that worked perfect it a total mystery...I'm trying to look solutions as I can't think what it could be I mean every post I looked at they said they taken cars to audi and they don't see a problem or they say it the ballast if it the ballast it failed twice the part is under warranty for 2 years and I think if I take it there and they put a new one what saying that won't fail too... If any one can suggest or had this experience and fixed it I would love to know... So here what we done so far Scanned for codes and run test on obd2 No errors Check fuses all fine It has new ballast Check wiring all looks fine New xenon bulb

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with the cam sensor, lambda sensor, maf sensor.

I did another test, drove a little bit in city to raise the engine temp to 90, parked, checked the radiator fans they were blowing hard, then shut off the AC and the fans stopped as well even though the engine was at 90 and it didn't drop... it seems like only after i drive on highway is doing it.

i am considering the same. But my actual daily has to go in for repairs. Ill have to see if i can afford an electician.

It has now. Thanks for the update.

Thanks Geraint, If it were mine, I would certainly not be treating the ‘getting it to run better’ as a priority over getting it inspected in relation to the long list of previous advisories, before even driving it quietly. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you indeed look at its MOT history before going to look at it?

Hi I'm want to quickly test that fuel is not only reaching each injector but they don't leak and the spray pattern is ok. I did this some years ago but old age and lost info has left me needing my memory jogged 🙄 so after popping each injector and resting them in seperate jars I know I have to pull the relay and use the bridging tool then after raising the flap on the metering head I can time and measure but which relay and what position to put the bridge is where I've gone blank. 91 80 16vq Cheers

Gary. I have no doubt there is an electronic fault of some kind and therefore the error messages are all meaningless. I suggest you find an auto electrician.