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Sorry to hear that

So we had a new condenser fitted yesterday and got a new pressure switch and we had the car re gased the AC is all working and holding but the noice comes back when the AC button in side the car is switched off. The noice goes away when I switch AC button on.. I have attached a video you can hear the difference change when the AC bottom goes off.. sounds tiny/echo only from inside the Car. Could this just be the AC settling and just need time.. since owning the car it's never had working AC so I can't tell how it was before. it's now had new AC compressor & condenser & pressure switch all new parts not reconditioned We are at a loss now with the noice 🤔 PXL_20250705_095539542.mp4

‘Evangelical’ Spartacus!?

Will have a look at the wires you suggested, Watch this space will let you know.

Welcome Reg, and thanks for joining. To save you buying components in the hope the fault lies with them, have you tried measuring the voltage ( and earth continuity) at suspected components? That would be my plan of action - if it helps. Regards, Gareth.

I've still not given up on the A6 and still considering options. As the title suggests I'm wondering if the Audi/VW 2.5tdi inline 5 engine could fit in my A6 C5. Here's the research I've done so far: Pros 1. I'm thinking parts would be more readily available for the 5 cylinder as it had a 17 year production run 89-06) in various cars including the A6, VW T4, VW lt and Volvo 850/V70 (known as D5252T). Whereas the V6 only had an 8 year production run in Audi A4, A6, VW Passat and Skoda superb. 2. They are an older style of engine so easier to work on and they can be converted to mechanical fuel pump rather than electrical. 3. In the A6 and VW LT they are mounted longitudinally and can mount to the 01e gearbox that's currently in my A6 as bellhousings are the same. 4. No change in emissions class as the 2.5tdi 5 cylinder is euro 3 like the 2.5tdi V6. 5. Proven to be a very reliable engine and can run on veg oil (WVO). Cons: 1. Longer engine so might be a tight squeeze in the engine bay. C4 from bellhouse to front of viscouse fan measures around 64 cm, while the allroad seems to measure around 58. The small difference looks to be a result of the fan wich is pulled forward on the allroad. 2. Less refined as the V6 with max power output of 140bhp whereas my A6 had 155. 3. Can't use a code reader. I5 engine uses an archaic 8 Bit ECU with no VNT provision, but can be converted to run the later T4 multivan ECU which can be flashed trough OBD and is capable to run a VNT turbo. Unknowns: 1. Does DVLA need to be notified of the engine swap (other than engine code) as I'm going from a 2.5tdi to a 2.5tdi? (I know insurance would). 2. Getting the C5 instrument cluster to work (but this would be an issue with any engine swap) 3. Would engine height be an issue? 4. The C4 engine mounts seems not to be attached to the subframe but directly to the cars body, so I doubt if that can be done without welding. I'd appreciate your thoughts on this 🙂

Apologies I've only just seen this. I still have the A6 but no further forward to be honest. They definitely become a labour of love. The issue I've found with the 2.5tdi V6 is parts availablity for the engine now. How are you getting on with yours?

Ideally you'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. It might also be worth contacting Audi to see if there's a software update available for the mmi.

Example for the Audi A6 2019 (MY2020). Part list as it did not fit on the screen grab.

Wasted advice I'm afraid Steve. Swansea has not been back to the forum since posting his question.

Yes, no issues again today. I'll see how it goes, will let you know if there's any further developments. Rgds, Rich

Pd engine is a very reliable engine. Check for mayo round the oil filler. Might be worth getting the engine pressure tested. Obviously worse case scenario is a head gasket.

Sorry to hear this. If the warranty company are refusing to honour the unlimited labour rate then I'd argue this is warranty has been miss sold. So the dealer is partly responsible for this. I'd open a case with the motoring ombudsman but you'll be waiting 4 months for a case to be assigned.

Wowsers that's expensive for a dpf. Definitely worth getting a forced regen and/or get the dpf physically cleaned out.

So all we now need to know is exactly what has been replaced at the various services and when.

I had mine plugged it don't really come up with much they are saying it's a electrical fault between gearbox and brain of car

Thanks Steve, Ill let you know how I get on.

You didn’t let us know what tyre brands are currently fitted Frank. Have you checked the listed noise rating on them? How much tread is left, since tyres generally get noisier as they wear? You really do need to give us all the information- problem and what you have already done to try to solve it, otherwise we will end up suggesting you do what you have already done - again. Regards, Gareth.

I just thought I would pop my head above the parapet and say that I finally did get the remap. Not only that, but I also had the gearbox mapped as well. I would say that it is well worth doing, however the difference is not as noticeable as you would think. The reason for this is probably a positive: In the lower rev ranges, the car behaves similarly to before ie it is quick but not ballistic. "Fizzy" is actually the word that comes to mind, like a shaken bottle of coke with the lid on. So pootling is as easy as it was. It does change up a little earlier as you would expect and happily sits in 4th now at 25mph. the torque waves are wonderfully relaxing it has to be said. On the rare occasion that you can get into manual mode and above 4000 rpm and "take the lid off", it is noticeably quicker than the 550i and frankly it is slighty nuts. I do miss my days with my old turbocharged sleeper Saabs and it is nice to be back in something that outperforms its appearance!

At least you can rule out the battery. It might be worth getting a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. But I'd say it could be the megatronics unit.

Hi all new to club I would like to share my findings with you all on what has happened with my Fsi so far. I bought it cheap as it has/had a misfire and lack of power. I found the inlet flap actuator was missing (GREAT) I thought 😭 Previous owner drove it for 18 months like this until misfire started. Anyway I started of with plugs and coils and injection cleaner still had a miss. Now the interesting bit it never had the start up clatter that 90% of fsi owners report until yesterday after a short drive I started it again to drive it into the garage I was met with quite a clatter for a couple of seconds or so it settled into a nice idle strange I thought it even reved nicely so I take it for another short drive it went like a rocket all the lack of power and missing had gone😃😃 I am a bit stumped as the only codes I had were for the inlet flaps and multiple misfires Now I am thinking was the cam variator stuck and then freed itself any thoughts on this???

I believe so.

Ah apologies

Sorry I missed this. So glad you've got it back. You've done a great job and the cars s credit to you 🙂 Have you managed to change the wheels and finding the cause of the cold start issue?