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Hi Steve, just by way of an update Euro Performance Audi/VW specialist in Llantrisant changed the cooler ( 1.5k) and some other smaller jobs . Removed EGR was 95% blocked ( saw it for myself) . I’ll let you know the progress but excellent customer service and knowledgeable team ( Gareth) around Audi A6 issues .

Hi I am sure all the Herberts that run mapping adverts on Facebook are totally upfront on their tax declarations, it won't affect the modified car scene insomuch if they stick to exhaust systems that work in line with emissions equipment that is already fitted to the car, it won't be stopping super wide wheels or lowering and suspension its aimed at the emissions, the manufacturers manage models that fit the criteria and positively fly along so the simple equation is if you save your money then buy fast you have got a better deal, the flip side of that is the ones that do save up and buy fast seem to end up on sites like this because they don't factor in running costs or servicing or sudden failure of key components, never going to be a winner is it. Steve.

Still no success as yet. I’m trying different people but no solution so far.

Lovely looking car. I'd definitely recommend getting it to an auto electrician to resolve this. I appreciate it's out of warranty from the dealer you bought it from but assuming it's a jap car import specialist it might be worth seeing if hey can resolve it. Just in case they need to speak to any specific contacts in Japan if it's a Japan only version. The rattling could be the under tray coming loose or a heat shield coming loose.

Hi - my A6 C8 2.0 diesel has started throwing a “Drive system fault: contact workshop” error - it’s happened around four times in the last week. First three when using cruise control - which is knocked off and can’t be used once the error appears. The latest time error appeared when in normal driving. After stopping and restarting the error clears. Doesn’t appear on every drive - sometimes more than 60 miles in. Stop start and intelligent coasting all appear normal. In every other respect the car seems to be driving normally. i’m away from home for the next few days with the car and will take to main dealer when i return. Thought I would see if anyone had any ideas/advice? Thanks

Thanks for following this up Gareth.

Thanks Spartacus for continuing to help me. Both times the right rear caliper assembly was replaced it was the whole item including the EPB motor and its cable/connector. I had asked, the first swap, to just change the motor but was told this was a bad idea. I have both replaced calipers and they both have the motor etc. I remember the first main dealer also reported that they had swapped over the rear speed sensors, as these tell the ABS unit to change over from EPB to hydraulic braking at 7 km/h. But this made no change.

My thanks to all that responded to my initial query regarding the recommended life of the timing belt on my Q3. Your comments have been very useful. Despite Audi still sticking with their life of 186,500 miles or 15 years I'm going for something in the region of 6 years or 70,000 miles. I would rather spend £1500 +/- now than umpteen thousands in a few years. Subject now closed

Many thanks.

Too True.

Hi if the tank is the non round type you can remove the bag, if its the round double skinned type its in between the structure and you can't get at it. Steve.

Right, you now have to confirm your suspicion that the noise is from a belt driven components - but which one. A good start would be to use a rod type stethoscope, taking all safety and risk elements into consideration - probably wiser to entrust this to a garage. The offender should reveal itself. Regards, Gareth. Please note, worth emphasising the risks of this approach with an engine running at 3K revs. Just take it to a trusted garage. ( all in Caps).

Have you seen this Andrew? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Thank you mate , I'll give that a bash and see how it pans out

Thank you. Think I've found all I need to at the moment, but will bear this in mind 👍

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

Thanks all!

Thanks Karl for that useful information. It is worth noting that modern cars are extremely sensitive to the electrical power supply which needs to be stable under all load conditions. Dying batteries can often start the engine normally yet cause a variety of electronic faults such as loss of automatic stop/start function, and false warning messages on the dashboard, amongst others. Even top quality batteries can need to be replaced after five years.

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.