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I’ve noticed recently that I’m getting a whirring noise between about 2-4 rpm when the cars up to temp. The warmer it gets the more noticeable it is. I thought it might be something to do with the drive train etc but when it’s happening, if I disengage the clutch and the engine drops to idle the noise goes away. Bring the clutch pedal back up again, noise returns? Sounds abit like a wheel bearing

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Hi Gareth/Cliff, this was always coming the Germans tried it back in the late 70s with type approval on car parts within Europe, you were obliged to use manufacturer parts, that went out of the window when everybody and their dog worked out that the manufacturers had changed their practise and were not making the parts anymore but buying from people like Bosch Febi LUK Hella, the list is endless, therefore what was the difference between a Bosch part direct and a Bosch part with a VAG Logo, nothing except the Bosch direct part was about half price, this will not be as easy as they have a more than valid point, I love my cars but am realistic enough to take on board that Nox 1 is deadly and has to be reduced as it has been by the manufacturer, I agree in principle to what they propose as it drives me mad with the remap brigade who will happily try and belittle those who don't have their vehicles mapped as being dull and stupid, think of all the extra power you could have, then I have to smile when they end up on this forum bleating for help with problems of their own making which no one can help with because the vehicles been modified or as they put it improved, what price improvement, prime example being the poster with the A1 that had low compression and running problems because of a melted piston, after wheedling out of him you begin to wonder why anyone in their right mind would remap an engine that has a supercharger and inline turbo fitted and a history of melting pistons on its own without the aid of a remap, we have to get past a basic ignorance of what this process does to your car long term. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

Ha ha .... Found the data label in the boot !!! So it's a 130kw 2.0 tdi (CGLC) and a bunch of other codes.

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

Thanks all!

Thanks Karl for that useful information. It is worth noting that modern cars are extremely sensitive to the electrical power supply which needs to be stable under all load conditions. Dying batteries can often start the engine normally yet cause a variety of electronic faults such as loss of automatic stop/start function, and false warning messages on the dashboard, amongst others. Even top quality batteries can need to be replaced after five years.

That sounds like the old Windows solution to all problems: turn it off, then turn it on again and hope for the best. Fingers crossed it works in your case.

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Normally the ‘o’ ring. The mating surface on the sump needs to be clean. I’ve seen this job done before with a vacuum without draining the oil. Lightly lube new oil sensor seal with fresh oil, and nip up bolts. Don’t quote me, but think only 10Nm.

Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.

Thank you for updating us 🙂

Check service history for proof of cambelt/water pump changes unless it's a chain. If chain then listen for rattle on start up and driving. It'll be an auto I suspect so check there's proof of gearbox oil changes as the s tonic box doesn't like to have old oil. Usually it's first or reverse that refuse to engage. But check all gears a smooth. Again check for service history of quattro system. Check all electrical items work. AC works consistently in all vents as issues with the system can get expensive. Check all leds are working in rear lights. Look for any proof of dpf, egr issues in service history.

Just adding a bit more info- some independent vag dealerships can access sfd2 via the official odis coding software but charges are some £300 for access. This is to allow retrofiting of some features such as reversing cameras. Not sure if they would make changes to safety features for you?

Did you code the new battery to the car? It needs to be done to ensure it is charged correctly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Great! very helpful to know what I might be looking at. Many thanks.

My understanding is Audi just change the oil, however there's a mesh filter which needs cleaned. Pretty sure it will be 5 generation Haldex.

Hi could be an auxiliary water pump they use these to circulate the water if the weather is hot after the engine is stopped it prevents cooking the cylinder head, by the looks of the coolant temp it was already hot when you started the car. Steve.

Stormbroadcast - today - with just 2 previous posts, should be deleted?

hi all I have a set of roof bars for a 19 plate A7 if any one is looking , they have never been on a car and a bargain at 190 plus postage , based in Malvern