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Your own cable or a tethered one on the charge point?

Hmm, I'm not convinced, but I guess we'll never know for certain.

Here's some photos

Are the sensors turned on when your approaching the wall? They only activate when you put the car in reverse or if you push the button to turn them on, then they should stay active until your forward speed is over 4mph(ish)

My bet would be the alarm too. The only way to find it would be to trave the wires from the fusebox. This should be obvious as they'll look different to the rest of the stock loom. Unfortunately these aftermarket alarms can be a problem. If you get a chance watch the old top gear challenge with the 3 series convertibles. Hamonds one had a similar problem.

If there's a problem with the car then yes.

You're welcome

This is a brand new car so I'd be going back to the dealer to get it checked or even ask if they will let you try their demo car to find out if it's the same as yours. It's under warranty so I'd be doing that before I started paying money to see if there was a fault. I owned a B9 A5 coupe 35 TFSI which was detuned to 150bhp and it was terrible. If I tried to accelerate quickly it would shift into neutral, rev away then eventually select a gear and go. It was just so restricted that I had to let it go. I changed to a B9 A5 coupe 40 TFSI and the difference was like night and day. Much more responsive and quicker. I now have a 2024 A4 Avant and find this again different to the A5. It's still as quick but depending on your speed you sometimes have to wait a few seconds for the turbo to spool up before it does anything, other times it will accelerate quickly right away. The energy harvesting for the mild hybrid is more what I'd expect in an EV as it will slow the car down very quickly.

Hello Tony, Further to the PM you sent me. Your video doesn’t work on my system. If all the entries in the service book are supported by invoices rather than card payment receipts then I would be less suspicious of lack of a business stamp for each of the service book entries. You tell me - in effect- you aren’t experienced enough to form a decision yourself. If I was in your position I wouldn’t entertain proceeding with any deal without having an independent examination of the car. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you, Steve. will keep you all updated

Glad to hear you have solved the problem. It goes to show how ineffective or misleading low quality OBD readers can be. The website you linked to could prove very useful to us in the future when we are asked about fuse locations. I'll try to bookmark it where I can find it again. https://car-box.info/

Please keep us posted on how you get on

Yep imobiliser definitely can.

👍🏻 ta

Glad you got sorted 🙂

My wife's Yeti has the stop/start system which I surmise from watching its operation works as follows. The stop/start control constantly measures the battery voltage when the engine is stopped to ensure there is enough power left to restart the engine. Urban driving involving many stops/starts without enough time between stops to fully recharge the battery will be sensed by the control which then prevents engine stops when stationary. Add to this the load imposed by the AC system in hot weather and stops may not happen at all. All of this requires a special kind of battery (AGM) which needs to be in tip top condition for the function to work. That's why one of the first symptoms of a failing battery is that the stop/start system does not engage. Personally I am undecided if the system is worthwhile if you take the wider view of the overall impact on the environment. Does the fuel and emission saving balance the extra wear on starter motors and batteries which then require replacement using more materials and energy? I don't know because I can not quantify the two sides of the equation, and as a scientist at heart verifiable facts are important to me.

Hi. If I read correctly data sheets, then both models (55 and 60) use the same electric motor (same power). In EV only mode they behave the same - max 130kw of power (same 10s acceleration to 100kmh), but in combined mode the 55 version limits electric motor performance to caa 50kw. If above asumption is correct then there is only SW limitation, since the HW electronics needs to support max 130kw power in only EV mode?

I really like the Irish sense of humour!

Hello, everybody! I had an issue with my brake system and decided to share the problem solving approach I taken. Cheers! A8 D4_FSI_brake system problem_solved.docx

Hi Andreas. I have the app and it is very useful. I can't remember how I got it though. I have found the Audi Help line very helpful, I know others have not. I think the App is free. Tony

One tenth of Audi cost is a good result indeed.

You're welcome. Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

You're welcome. Thats a shame. If you put your reg or vin into parts websites you might find the correct one. Not sure how long you've had the car but if you've bought it within the last 30 days from a dealer then they should fix it free of charge as you're protected under consumer law. As you can reject the car for a full refund within the first 30 days from sale.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a nice A4 🙂

A bit more info for you mate. Efficiency mode is a mode designed to optimize fuel or electricity consumption and maximize mileage. In this mode, throttle response is subdued to reduce power consumption, and the AC system is put in ECO mode. Throttle, transmission, differentials, adaptive cruise control, and even climate control parameters can be managed to reduce mechanical resistance and improve efficiency. You can use Drive Select to pick Efficiency and get the most efficient group of settings, or use Drive Select to select Efficiency MODE, turn the car off and on, and you will get "Not Quite As Efficient Efficiency Mode".