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Is there a delete from the electronic stableizer on the audi A 5 2009 tia

I am on my second brand new a3 line my first I got in 2022 just after covid. It started to get an electrical fault saying my pre sense was restricted, was reported straight away to the dealer it brought it from. They claimed there wasn't a fault, then a month later it keep coming up that the rear middle light wasn't working back again to the dealership. They said that they software to fix the problem hasn't been made yet so after two years of frustration I change it to a newer model march 2024. Okay for a few weeks then the same problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem? .

Looking to lower my A4 purely to get rid of some of the arch gap, so probably 20mm drop on current S/line suspension. Am I right in saying a 35/40mm set of springs would do the job?

Mine was the windscreen.

Hi Just wondering if anybody can put my mind at ease. Have recently purchased an Audi S3 Convertible for my wife. We have owned various Audi's and decided that the gearbox fault on the Q5 was far too expensive to fix so I decided to treat her. We bought the car privately for a pretty good price a few weeks ago. Its absolutely immaculate only just over 44k miles full history. I have noticed in the last couple of days a slight noise coming from the rear of the car, it sounds like the breaks binding or a wheel bearing but it doesn't feel like it when you drive (If that makes sense). I have asked my mate (who's a mechanic to have a look at it). Anyway I have just popped out in it and got bombarded with a ton of warning lights. Tyre Pressure Monitor Fault Stabilisation Control Fault Hill Hold (Not available) Fault Start Stop Not Available Warning Parking Break on (When I'm stationary and it is on) There might of been more but they fired up so quickly it was difficult to keep up.. Took it out for a drive, everything seems fine and all the lights went out. Got home stopped turned it off left it for a bit and started it again and all the faults were back. Hoping its something simple but the way my lucks going who knows. Any ideas? Any advise would be greatly appreciated Thanks J

Best of luck mate but the word, REMANUFACTURED hopefully means cutting out the cheap Chinese stuff which is now spiralling up in price and reconditioned oem parts much better value for money. Thanks Renato

Thank you very much for your help

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Afternoon all, I hope you are all enjoying this lovely weather while we have it. I am new to this club so please bear with me. I am the owner of an Audi A6 Avant S Line (2012). Little help please. Sporadically, when driving, I will have multiple warning lights come on (TC, tyre pressure, coil light etc) as well as things like headlight adjuster fail, electric handbrake fail, loss of power and speedo/rev counter shut down. The only consistent condition that seems to trigger all of the above is when it is damp or wet weather. I am also able to trigger the warning lights by leaning over on the drivers side seat. Local garages are baffled and say it is probably a job for Audi. I am keen to avoid that bill so hoping someone here may have experienced the same and diagnosed the problem. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

U will still have same amount of transmission fluid as what was previously injected in there it is not oil . and it doesn't burn like oil it is closed environment chamber full of gears.. normally u have there 7 litres or 6.5 L

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

it was notchy with the need to sometimes try a couple of times to get first and third to select… and now it isn’t. What exactly can be investigated 🤔😂I’m not about to start pulling things apart when everything is working as it should 😉

Glad you got sorted 🙂

You're welcome 🙂 Not a daft question at all. If it were mine I'd change any gaskets whilst the parts a disassembled. You wouldn't want any leaks after you put it back together.

Hi Steve That was my next investigation, would I need a computer to turn off ESP light or do simply change the wheel sensors. As always I'll keep you in the loop. Cheers mate Dale

I had a similar problem where the front wipers would only work when the car was moving, rear wiper nothing and high beam not functioning (high beam flash would though) thought the bonnet switch lock but wasn’t that After checking fuses found no power before one fuse forget exactly which one. So fed power via another and everything worked fine (still has fuse protection) So in my case must be a wiring fault somewhere.

Hi all Looking to purchase an RS4 Avant, 2020 onwards. One of the things I can’t get to bottom of is around suspension options. If I look at new spec there’s something called Dynamic Ride Control, yet when I look at approved used cars, there are a series of different options. Basically my question is….what are the options in terms of adjustable or dynamically controlled suspension and for those with a car do they make a real word difference to ride quality? Thanks in advance

Afternoon all, I'm doing some trouble shooting on my 2011 A6, C6, 2.7tdi - CANA engine code. On my diagnostics and that of an Audi independent the temperature before turbo is measuring 849°C, but there is no sensor before the turbo on the 2.7tdi (there is on the 3.0 tdi). Can anyone point out if this temperature is irrelevant / red herring or is the reading is calculated from another sensor or a resistor somewhere? I have replaced the temperature sensor on the EGR cooler to rule this out but no change there. The reason for looking into this was over the last 2 years the car has had DPF regeneration issues, resulting in me having the DPF professionally cleaned at Home - DPF Clean Team, EGR cooler cleaned by myself - a real pain to remove, injectors removed and tested (all ok) as well as other unrelated exhaust temperature sensor failures. Any advice greatly appreciated on where this temperature input comes. Thanks a lot.

Of course you are both right, and on reflection, the £130 charged wasn’t too bad. It’s just my mind would have been set on the very low cost resolution of a squirt of WD40 and a light tap on the offender. It’s a Welsh thing of short arms and deep pockets! Glad it’s fixed, and thanks for returning me to the true scene of economics? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi. Had a niggling problem with the right hand charge flap not wanting to close. When I did get it to closed and locked, it opened again when I unlocked the car. So a trip to the Main Dealer was needed. I was probably going to be told "you will have to book it in Sir, our next available time is July" .But, "hang on" the receptionist said I will get a techy to come out and have a look for you. Anyway 10 minutes later I am back on the road with a normally operating flap. The techy said the mechanism gets a bit sluggish sometimes. Probably a squirt of WD40 was used. I was so pleased with the service and in a state of euphoria I gave the techy a fiver. Tony

Good start to the weekend 😊

It sounds like a broken spring in the dual mass flywheel.

Look at the wires in the rubber bellows between doors and pillars. They often break because of the constant flexing.

Unless there are other instrument and/or cluster problems, the chances are that the temperature sender is faulty. I don't know your engine so I can't help with the sender location.

Update: It still does it sometimes , not always and not that often as before, but now it can happen even at lower RPM-s. 2000 or 2500 , mostly in second and third gear. I still can't figure it out what could it be.