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Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone can help because I'm completely stuck at this point. I have a 2002 Audi A4 B6 Avant 1.8T with the AVJ engine and an FPS gearbox, and I'm currently replacing the oil pan myself. Unfortunately, the job requires the front subframe to be lowered or removed, and according to Audi the front subframe stretch bolt N90956803 must be replaced. The problem is that I cannot find this bolt anywhere. I understand that N90956803 superseded the older part number N90956801, but neither part seems to be available. Over the last few days, I have contacted TPS, local Audi dealerships, Flying Spares and suppliers in both Europe and the United States, but nobody appears to have any stock. I even placed an order with ECS Tuning in America, but they would not accept my payment method and the order had to be cancelled. As this is a torque-to-yield stretch bolt, I understand that Audi recommends replacing it rather than reusing the old one, which is why I am reluctant to continue the job without finding the correct part. Has anybody here replaced the oil pan on an AVJ powered A4 B6 without completely removing the subframe? Is there another method to complete the job? Alternatively, does anybody know where genuine N90956803 bolts can still be purchased, whether in the UK, Europe or elsewhere? At this point, I genuinely don't know what to do next. The car is currently off the road, I can't complete the repair and the whole situation has become extremely stressful. Any help or advice would be hugely appreciated. Thank you.

If anyone with VCDS close to you, then that would be the next logical step. A Yuasa 9000 AGM is a decent battery, but for all you know there’s a parasitic drain, who knows. Any remedial work since then, such as dash-cam install? They should last minimum of 5 years. Bear in mind, visiting a main dealer to diagnose will be the same as renewing the battery. You can test battery with cheap multimeter. Should be around 12.4-12.6v with car not started, and running over 14v when alternator kicks in.

I doubt you will just find the bulb holder on its own, but just replace the rear light. Suspect original was made by Valeo or Hella. Get part number off the original. Now EBay will be full of dodgy parts, so look for genuine Audi OEM, not some LED retrofit made in China. With the part number you can search for the part.

Hello Dave, Did you do this conversion yourself, or did you get someone to do it for you? Regards, Gareth.

Yuasa 9000 AGM

Thanks Frank, OK, but I just wonder how you are going to rectify this issue, even if someone else has the same problem. Couple this with the dealer being suspicious of you having fiddled with it, and you could find that essential warranty has suddenly become invalid - so good luck with that. Naming and shaming your nearest dealerships is not something this forum encourages, since this forum is open to all - members and non members alike, and the dealerships you name and shame are not able to to reciprocate with their views. Your call, but if you want us to remove your comments then just ask us to do so. If you are not bothered to do so, then they can remain on the proviso that they are solely your comments, and have been discouraged by this forum. Ok, to get to a a dealer of your preference will lead to you being inconvenienced, but there is little the forum or its members can do about that Frank. Regards, Gareth.

Good afternoon all. My 2004 Audi A4 Avant is due for its MOT end of August. My mechanic can't find a right rear bulb holder. The existing one is on its last legs, rusted, with only the indicator bulb still working, brake light and rear light are not working, even with new bulbs. My mechanic has tried to find a new bulb holder, including at auto recycling places, but in vain. He says the car is too old. I love my car and find it ridiculous if I have to throw it away just because of a bulb holder. I would be grateful for any ideas!

Ahh, get back home in about 2 hours. Will have a look then. 👍🏻

Morning can I and if so how change from d2s to 3ds headlights audi a6 c6 4f allroad 2008 thanks

Hi Gareth I agree, it would be so much simpler to head off to a Main Dealer to sort it out. Two reasons I havent done so yet. Firstly, I thought someone here might have experienced the same sort of thing and had a quick fix. And secondly, it's a faff to organise an appointment with Audi and have to leave the car there for some hours. I'm not a fan of either of my 2 local dealers, one in Southampton which is about 12 miles away from where I live and the other at Poole, about 30 miles away. Not ever dealt with their Service Departments but if they are anything like ther Sales, I havent been too impressed over the last 20 years of owning Audis. Everything thing you fear about Car Sales.....and Car Salesmen....and they have the lot in spades ! Flash, too eager to make a deal and most with very little knowledge of the product they are trying to sell you ! So, for me, if I want to sort it I will need to go the the supplying Dealership, Audi at Bury St.Edmunds who are family owned and for me, very impressive. However its a bit of a slog from Hampshire at the moment,especially in this heat so I will leave it for now. Many thanks for the input. Frank

Hi folks, Need to pick yr brains on this one; I had my headlights upgraded to LEDs, but that meant removing the front bumper. That did something to the radar units &/or wiring. I’ve had to replace one radar unit, which now works but there is still an intermittent ent fault in that the adaptive cruise will just randomly switch & display the error message, ‘xxxx not available, no sensor vision’. Now, I’ve check to left hand unit & plug contacts, all good, the Right unit contacts should be as it’s been swapped, However, there’s zero slack in the cable run on the right, so I’m thinking that one of the wires or connections has been strained or partially broken. So, has anyone here had to delve into that wiring loom at all? I’m wondering if there’s another connector behind the bumper, or any advice on how to check the continuity on those cores? I haven’t dived in yet, we’re away for a week now then I need the car for the next week, so I’m hoping for some insight from you guys before I dive into it in August! Cheers folks!

Hello Frank, Surely you don’t have to worry about the reason or resolution, or indeed if anyone else has the same symptoms. All you have to do is to book it into your main dealer, and request they correct the issue. Having said that, it would be good to know what the resolution turns out to be. Regards, Gareth.

Make!?

Nightmare!

It's an AGM Stop Start battery 👍🏻

Thanks Steve I tried to buy a sensor from eBay but they said I had to find out if the sensors worked of the ABS system or fitted to the rims I wouldn’t know what to look for lol 👍

I have the same 3.0 BiTDI and I too hear the exact same rattling noise. My mechanic said it is normal too but it is really been bothering me. I have tried other V6 cars like Mercedes Benz ML 320 and even though it is a much older car and engine, it sounded smooth. I even bought a new Oil Pressure Control Valve: https://www.csabastefan.com/en/audi-v6-bitdi-cvua-oil-pressure-valve-replacement.php but, having a hard time replacing it because of the very tight space between it and the radiator fans.

Hi the fact that you have only found repro units should be a clue and at the end of the day as long as they work is anyone really going to notice that they are not oe. Steve.

Hi I think your model may have the sensors in the rims, only way to find out which wheel is the wrong un is to get the car scanned. Steve.

Possibly just of interest Rob, but brand of battery?

Cliff. Yep,its a shark fin. Just checked it and its firmly fixed in the roof line. Happened again today. From start up, couldn't get any signal or any radio station. Parked the car in Pompey for 30 mins, got back to car,started it up...and all radio stations available ! Bizarre !

Think that is probably the answer. I’ll try and find someone who can do the diagnostic electrical check. Got a few contacts so will try and find out 👍🏻

I’ve managed to find repro ones but finding a genuine one, especially a Seima one to match the other side is proving difficult! Have tried breakers but no luck yet :/

It's not the starter motor Rob. That much I am sure of so don't waste any money buying new parts until you have a confident diagnosis. If the battery is in good shape, and I am not convinced it is, you need an electronic diagnosis.

Radio and GPS aerials used to be entirely separate items on different cables, but maybe technology has moved on since then. Is it a shark fin aerial on the roof? I have read they can become loose.