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There's a SKF bearing going in , one was put in on other side 55k ago and still perfect.

Hello, this is the part number for rear left tail light: 4G9945095B

It's booked for an MOT Saturday, then I'll be doing a driveway service and trying to trace the alarm sounder and module. Will update if that fixes the battery drain.

HI I HAVE A 2018 A4 2.0TDI I HAVE AN ERROR CODE OF P190D COOLENT PUMP FOR CHARGE PRESSURE COOLER . DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ON THIS PLEASE

I'll be watching this thread with interest as I have a Cobra alarm fitted to my 1988 Coupe GT. I want to remove/replace it but the car works at the moment........

Make sure the fit a F.A.G. Bearing. Basically fit and forget. Car parts are not what they used to be, so cheap parts reveal themselves prematurely with normal wear and tear.

But unfortunately the wheel bearing on the side has gone bad in the 2 weeks since the cv joint was changed, coincidence or was damaged during the cv joint saga , either way its going in for a new wheel bearing tomorrow. The joys of a 10 year old A6 !!! Regards

Hi riflo, The VIN is WAUZZZ4G2EN077159. Many Thanks, Paul

Yes its resolved, they replaced the outer cv joint again , they think the 1st one was faulty out of the box . Regards

I have exact the same issue but only when out in reverse after a long drive. Single clank noise from wheel and that's all. Can this be the arm/wishbone ? Has yours been resolved now? If so what was it ? Thanks.

If I may expand upon Magnet's reply, he means that if you change to 1 inch smaller wheels you need to fit 1 inch larger tyres in order to leave the overall gear ratios unchanged. But that is not all. The amount that the wheels are offset from the hub (or dished) also needs to be unchanged in order to avoid the tyres hitting the suspension and bodywork. That's why I can not be certain Ibiza wheels will fit. Probably they will, but I'd want certainty before spending money on them.

I have changed the largely meanless title HELP to something that more accurately represents the problem in order that it can more easily be found by others with a similar problem.

In that case I suspect the 400 volt connector on your car is faulty, or that the car does not recognise it correctly. In other words I believe the car is defective and should be returned to the vendor as Steve Q suggested.

The cable provided by the charger. The issue still persists with every charger I use. And I struggle to believe each charger I use is faulty

Thanks Nicholas. If any other sufferers of this problem decide to try this fix please report your findings here.

yes sorry i did not include size it is 215/40z/r17 i have been told there are a few other wheels and makes that can be fitted that will not effect my speedo ?? is this correct , thank you cheers

Just one way of you getting the roof down to enjoy the sunshine

It cost £65. plus £5.00 for an SD card. There was no guarantee but from the evidence in this thread and others (I was actually was led to VAG Car Coding via a thread on Audi-Sport.net) the chap at VAG Car Coding was 99% sure it was a 'patch' that was required, and he was right. I decided to take the risk of buying the 'patch' which was worth it and cheaper than local main dealer, who wouldn't have found the problem, for the quoted inspection fee of "£140 for the first two hours"

Interesting. How much did the company charge for your solution? Was the fix guaranteed?

What is the vin number?

Hello guys, hope you are enjoying the life a bit 😄... First time posting here I have an Audi A6 Competition 2016 3.0 BITDI (326hp). I have more than a year tracing an issue. I’ve been having a strange issue with my car during colder weather (around 4°C to 18°C) and was wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar. On a cold start, the engine fires up just fine. The idle RPM is slightly higher than normal(see the image attached higher_cold_rpm.jpg and normal_cold_idle.jpg). However, if I press and hold the throttle to bring the RPM up to around 1200–1400, the engine starts shaking and the RPM fluctuates up and down.(see the video issue.mov) If I try to do the same thing, it is gone and everything is normal except the high idle RPM which is 900 RPM and after 2-3 minutes it drop to 820-850 and after 5-8 minutes it drop to 800. Also a unpleasant smell comes out from a car's exhaust(maybe wrong air/fuel mixture) On warmer weather I don’t have this issue at all. The idle is still slightly high(the same as on colder weather) on cold start, but there's no shaking or RPM fluctuations when I press the throttle. From the past, the normal engine RPM after a cold start should be a bit higher than 800 RPM(maybe 820-850). Now the idle RPM is 900 RPM and after 3-4 minutes it drop to 820-850 and after 5-8 minutes it drop to 800. So far I’ve checked: No error codes stored (I scanned with a diagnostic tool – nothing came up) Injectors tested and all are within the spec Throttle body cleaned (minor carbon buildup, nothing major – cleaned the whole area shown in the image engine.png except the EGR Valve) What do you think I need to do next of if anyone else has experienced something similar what did you fixed? Thank you guys Flori issue.mov

Micro switches are often the culprit with these. Are you able to tackle this yourself if you know what switch/s are at fault? If not, I would be searching Classic car trimmers in a doable radius - they are often versed in issues with such things. ‘If I lower it (manually) what would that do’? The same end result as if you did it electrically! Regards, Gareth.

If I can lower it, what would this do?

The manual control should be in the boot on one of the side panels. I think you're right with your diagnosis

Hi Steve, I'm sure theres a way to manually close and open the roof however I haven't tried it. I believe the issue is related to the switches inside the latching mechanism that are !Removed! - the motor has rapidly degraded in speed to open/close as well.