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Thanks Glyn, I always re- check the oil level on level ground, the morning after the oil is changed. It’s surprising how long it takes for all (in caps) the added oil to get down to the sump. Too late now, but……. If it were mine:- (1) Check the oil level (on level ground) before start up tomorrow morning. (2) If it is above the line, get an accurate mm rule and measure exactly how much above the line it actually is. (3) Check again after 300 miles or 3 weeks and see how much it has increased. If it has then proved to have risen, it could be due to oil dilution with diesel. Please let us know how you get on Glyn. Regards, Gareth.
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It did work actually, twice. Perhaps there is a delay before it shows on the forum. I have to add that I will not download anything like this from untrusted sources, though I daresay most people are happy to do so.
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mikeyoung235 joined the community - Today
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Checked the level approx 30 minutes after filling, level now is about 1/4 inch above the mark. Don’t know what else to say about oil level.Not mechanically minded as you can tell.
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Hello Alan, If it were mine:- (1) Call in to your nearest main dealer’s Parts Dept. and enquire about the price and availability there. ( are there any electrical connectors very near/within this T piece? by the way?). (2) If they won’t give you the part number - which is quite likely - have a look on LLL Parts website, and you may find it there. (3) Thoroughly search EBay and EBay International to see if you can find one on there. (4) Register your ‘want’ with on-line car breaker link sites. Partsfinder is one of many. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.
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Fair do’s as we say in these parts Glyn, you seem to be a man of few words, and the details are dribbling through like a dripping tap! Questions:- When ‘filled to the mark’ during the oil change, how soon after was that level confirmed to be at the mark? How much is it now above the mark?
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morning folks,ive bought a 93 convertible as a project car and its the 2.3 5 cyl.the car drives fine but it wont stay running when the engine is cold,once it warms up its fine,anyone any ideas? im also looking for passenger side headlight if anyone knows where i could get one,any help appreciated,thanks
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As a quick update (which may or may not help others!) I ended up cancelling with Audi and reinsuring with them to kick this out another year within their expiry dates (which means I can hopefully also sort issues with my NCD out too!). Adrian Flux were well over £2k, eSure and Audi v similar around £1500. Interestingly the front end for UKI is Churchill and Directline, neither of which will underwrite performance cars!
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David Paul joined the community -
devonlad joined the community -
I’ve got a 2014 Q7 and same happened to me last year in the Lake District, at 10pm on a Sunday night. Problem is, the pulley shouldn’t be rusting away like that, it a low quality part that Audi could easily have put right. My pulley was £350, from a local car parts place, VW were asking £550 at the time (parts - not fitted). If people can get them for £96 from ECP I’d recommend doing it as preventive maintenance as you can’t really drive without it. Shame really - I’d expect parts like that to fail on a Citroen C1 but not a Q7!
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Could be a relay, also check continuity of the wiring if you can trace back.
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Tattood_Dub joined the community -
tent
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Lukeg joined the community -
Hi there my son is a mechanic and scanned it with his snap on scanner it said there was an open circuit so I checked all the wiring up two the loom and everything was fine I was thinking it could be a relay ?
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Filled to the line on the dipstick.
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An independent (Vasstech) agreed it was most likely the bag. I have already provided the information in my original post lookers says it’s anything but the airbag. Valve body level sensors etc
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Yes up to the max level then drops down past min but I tend to top it up before the warning light appears.
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Hello, I am looking for A3 1.5 TFSI ED 1 or S Line with Bang & Olufsen 2020 onwards. Daytona Grey colour, budget is £20K thank you. -
LordFridge joined the community -
I’ve seen it before where an oil leak in the middle of the V has filled and ran down both sides so would recommend looking there with a borascope or sticking a camera phone as best you can around in there for any sign of oil if yours doesn’t look like the pictures
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Won’t let me upload a video of my failed injector seal for some reason
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IMG_9185.mov
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It’s unusual for all the injector seals to go at the same time on both banks and rather than it being oil it looks like a sludge of carbon that sprays under pressure on the manifold and inner wing. You’ll be able to here a faint ticking noise too coming from the injector. IMG_9185.mov
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camp
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That the air flow reduces suggests an electronic problem. Best to get the system diagnosed.
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£300 for supply tells me they simply don't want the job. Time to investigate alternative suppliers such as this for example: https://wolfautoparts.com/coolant-tpiece-adapter-n90760601-ps43608.html While that one may not be identical to yours, a little time searching the internet may well find one that is.
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kererra joined the community -
What’s the fault, what are the symptoms, is this an in-dash error. I take it you haven’t had the car scanned for fault codes? Manual or auto? The electronic parking brake is normally pretty robust. Rear calipers are known to seize, especially at this age, but you’ve already swapped it out. Are you getting 12v to the module? A cheap multi-meter is invaluable. Also check wiring there, especially the ABS wiring.
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Hello I have an audi a6 2.0 tdi estate it has a handbrake fault on the rear drivers side so I bought a brand new caliper and pads and fitted them it still not working so I checked all relevant fuses still no joy I then bought a handbrake module and still nothing can anyone please help I definitely can't afford to take it to main dealers I'm defo at a dead end
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