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Salut ai mai rezolvat problema am si eu fix Asa problema mersi mult

Hi, wonder if anyone can shed some light on this as my local dealer is not sure and doesn't want to start taking apart the dashboard unnecessarily. I've noticed in the winter months on longer journeys when the engine is up at higher temperature the climate controlled heating just gives up blowing and I start to feel a draft, etc.. In the summer months the same applies to cooling and the blower just stops delivering the cold air to keep the cabin at setpoint. When it does this I generally note that cold air is still delivered to the rear passenger vent in the back of the armrest but nothing from the front vents. Putting on AC max results in a lot of noise from inside the dash over to the left around the glove compartment. However, turning off AC immediately starts to release more air through the front vents and then, after a few minutes of restored air, turning the AC back on starts to chill the air again, though not as chilled as when starting the car from fresh. Is this the AC compressor at fault, blower motor, blend valve(s) or perhaps even some sensors somewhere? The only fault code the dealer has managed to extract from the ECU related to icing up on the AC compressor? I have had the refrigerant recharged recently which the AC service agent said wasn't significantly low on gas.

It needs to be done using a decent code reader & diagnostic machine. If you don't have access to one, most garages and battery suppliers will be able to do it for you.

Yeah I will just change everything, from what I can see it look like it might be coming from the plastic flange bit that connects to the egr cooler, I think there is another plastic piece behind that aswell (back towards the inside of the car ) but not sure what that's called

Loads of stripping down therefore it would be wise to replace everything down there, you won't want to do it twice, also you will need to adhere to any torque settings for bolts. Steve.

Thanks guys, how do I get the battery coded to the car please??

No it doesn't in look like a nice job, yes it could be that, I think it might be a good idea to also change the other plastic parts in the coolant system down there

Hi probably the oil cooler, not a nice job. Steve.

Thanks Steve, having had more of a closer look it does look like I also have coolant inside the v. So now need to find out what is leaking in there .

Hi I think you have solved it yourself as a broken bolt won't maintain uniform pressure on the gasket therefore water will escape. Steve.

Hi its obviously in its early stages, the reason it is slipping in higher gears is because of the torque load in higher gears, it used to be the old way of testing the clutch, find a nice hill and change up to early floor the throttle and if the clutch was good the engine would labour, if not it revved up, I would get it checked ASAP as when the clutch slips it creates a phenomenal increase in gearbox temps and cooks the rear crank seal which is a whole different story, having had it happen to me I can say its not a good day out. Steve.

Don. If you can smell the coolant it must be escaping somewhere, though at a mere 1500 miles per year the loss may be so small that you don't get a warning before the garage tops it up during annual servicing.

Thanks for the information which suggests that the old caliper was indeed at fault, even if nothing was visibly wrong with it.

The more you drive a slipping clutch, the worse it will get, causing high fuel consumption, and eventually the car will not move. Do you have good breakdown insurance?

The stop/start system may be present in your car, but if the battery is defective it won't work. As Steve said, find out if the system is installed. Whatever type of battery you fit ensure it is coded to the car.

That makes sense, and fits Audi's push for subscription services.

Hi, this may or may not be of interest to anyone, but I have finally managed to fix the issue about a month ago. Here's the summary: Electronic parking brake on the left side stopped working more than six months ago. There was a warning on the dash ("parking brake malfunction") accompanied by a loud beep every time I turned the ignition on. I have unplugged the wire from the electric motor on the left. The same warning remained on the dash. Parking brake on the other side was working correctly. Then life and other things got in the way and I did not do anything to rectify the issue, except for making sure that the wire does not dangle under the car and the socket on the electric motor is waterproofed (plastic bags and zip ties). I continued to use the car daily. I kept using the parking brake as and when required and it was still holding the car even on fairly steep inclines, even though it was only working on one side. I finally got some spare time and replaced the electric motor and also the plug with about 20cm of wiring. Apparently it is not unusual for this to rust and cause issues. I only bought the cheapest plug and the cheapest parking brake motor I could find on ebay (probably about £30 total). Fitted the parts, but the parking brake still did not work. As it happens it was engaging, but not disengaging. So in the end I replaced the brake caliper. Again, the cheapest one I could find, which was about £60. I replaced brake discs and pads at the same time, but only because they were quite worn (this was not related to parking brake issue). After I replaced the caliper the parking brake issue was resolved. The warning disappeared from the dash and I did not need to reset any faults with the code reader. Also, the parking brake is now almost silent when engaging/disengaging. To the point that when I first tried it after fitting the new parts I thought it was not working at all (it was fairly audible before). It has been about a month now and all is well. I almost miss the loud beep that accompanied the ignition being turned on every time when the fault was still present. PS. If anyone is replacing the rear brake discs, there are some videos and guides on the internet that tell you to remove the brake caliper carrier, but you can actually wiggle the disc out carefully without removing the bracket or damaging the disc.

thanks steve i have a journy down to sussex in 3 weeks would you advise a new clutch to be fitted as this has only happend and havent drove since

Hi it sounds like the clutch is either contaminated on the friction plate or on its way out. Steve.

Hi ring the dealers and ask if your car was fitted with stop start, you will have to give them your VIN and if its not equipped with stop/start you are away, only piece of advice is buy branded and not some random make of battery that is dirt cheap and won't last long, the battery will need to be registered to let the ECU know it has a new battery. Steve.

Hi yes but the new module would have to be coded to the car, try and find a local car audio specialist who will be able to offer a hybrid solution rather than get in to major removal of the existing unit. Steve.

Hi, this maybe a sill question!!! I need to change my Battery in my 60 plate Audi A3, the guy in the shop said there is 2 types, one for stop start car and a one without (big difference in price). My car dosent seem to have stop start, because it dosent do it!! But the guy in the shop says it can turn itself off!!! There is nothing on the current battery to say its a stop start battery !!! Guy in shop says if you use a standard one in a stop start in can effect the ecu, so some functions wont work correctly.... Any help would be appreciated...

Hi sounds like the Haldex unit in the rear diff is on its way out this would put the car in to limp as its controlled electronically by a module. Steve.

Hi at a guess you have no subscription to the emergency call system its just their way of badgering you in to subscribing again, try having the car scanned to remove it, if its anything like my Passat I had to delete it a couple of times and they now have the general idea, not subscribing so it has not ever come back in over a year. Steve.

hi all i have an Audi a4 2007 2.0tdi sline when in 5th or 6th gear the engine reves up when accelirating hard but is fine if you drive normal and all over gears are fine any ideas what this could be thanks