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Since this is totally manual work, there is no equipment to show, but here is video link of testing it: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tlhkDMtlmtA You will find more videod there.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap. Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?

A chassis or steering misalignment will make the car unsafe to drive, so you really should care about it. Presumably NZ has some sort of compulsory road worthiness test? If it is anything like ours the car could fail the test.

Hi, I’ve recently got a second hand A1 2012 S-Line 3dr. I took it to Halfords and they have advised I have a blocked Air con. I’ve just replaced the the air filter and cabin filter as they were past due. Does anyone know if I can unblock the A/C myself and if so how to do it and what I’m looking for. Many thanks in advance

it has a bent steering arm so drives like it has a really bad alignment, gets good drift angle though, tyres r shredded to bits after i couldnt help my self but drive. i think theres no other option but to bend the hinge, dont really care about the other stuff its not as major as this for me. these r the only photos i got of the damgeCCBDCD6D-3782-41B3-BCEF-C091D13D42DE.mov IMG_3745.mov

i dont know how to reply i think i accidentally did it wrong, had wroten something up

Recently had a few of these Audi Gamma & Delta on the bench for a Bluetooth retrofit. Personally, I think this is one of the best upgrades for a classic car You keep the factory radio, 100% factory look, but gain modern Bluetooth functionality. Curious what others think. Do you prefer keeping everything completely original or making hidden upgrades that improve usability?

Bryce. What was the point of asking a question here if you do not return to read any replies?

Good day all, I have a 2.0 TFSI with the ZF 8 speed auto ‘box which I intend to get serviced within the next couple of months. Is this just an oil and sump/filter change or is there mechatronic seal (for the wiring) on these? I’m going to get the oil changed in both diffs and the transfer ‘box, is there anything else within the drive train that needs looking at while it’s on the ramp? Mileage is 65,000 miles.

Sounds very much like an internal amplifier issue to me. We see quite a few Audis with exactly the same symptoms. Amps has to be resoldered correct way

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my post its much appreciated. I do not know how accurate this snippet of information an Audi technican told me but here goes The electric fuel pump is designed to be submerged in fuel to help cooling issues so even when 0 miles is showing there can still be as much as 7 litres still in the tank. Also apparently in Germany running out of fuel on the Autobahn is an offence so this also allows the driver some 60 miles to refill should the car say 0 miles. Either way thanks all at least I know Ive not been short changed with a smaller fuel tank!!

Hi all, New user here, hoping someone can help me out with this 😁 I'm trying to map out some extended diagnostic pids (uds mode 22) for my a4's ECU (Bosch EDC17). I've already found a few through cross comparing the pids my ECU responded with with carista: 22114F: DPF soot mass (g) 221156: Distance since last DPF regeneration (km) 22115E: Engine runtime since last DPF regeneration (hours) 221100: Coolant temperature (°C) (Hope these help any users in the future) These are tiny in comparison to how many I managed to pull (thousands!) so does anyone have any others? Thanks for reading! Cheers, Rad4

looks like a 63 litre tank. When I fill up at my local Shell a couple of the pump clicks off very early and I can get 4 or so litres more in if I wait 10s after the first click off and don't go full beans on the trigger. I asked my local dealer and they said the pumps were to sensitive and asked the Shell garage and they said the pumps only click off when they detect back pressure and this must be as a result of a restriction in the pipe to the tank. I'm past the point of caring I just fill to the first click off each time and I fill up when my yellow tank comes on if I'm away from home of is it's below 1/4 if I'm on my way home as my local Shell is 28 miles away on the road to my home. Enjoy the car.

Welcome Steve, 10 litres remaining when the light comes on seems a reasonable reserve to me, and certainly not ‘crazy’ in my book. Consider if you lived in a rural area where filling stations are few and far between. To be honest, I cannot follow your logic in believing it is an overkill, but irrespective of that, the car is simply going to use the same amount of fuel, wherever the low fuel light comes on! Regards, Gareth.

If your reserve of 10 litres truly equates to 30 miles of range I reckon the gauge calibration is faulty.

Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

Bon voyage. Do let us know the ratio of working vs non-working charge points.

Hello I am a new Audi owner and have a A6 40tfsi C8 Facelift Sport Saloon. The car has been everything I hoped it would be -quiet and smooth on the road with enough power to keep me happy in retired life. When I first received the car it had a quarter tank so when it reached only 30 miles of fuel left I filled it up to the brim but could only fill 53 Litres. I have again run the car to show only 30 miles remaining and again can only fill 53 Litres before the tank is full I have checked the spec for the car and it says the tank capacity is 63 Litres. Having checked online the view is that the A6 tank has a large reserve and my experience is not uncommon. This seems crazy to think that when the red light shows fill up there is still some 10 Litres in the tank!! Can anyone help please - I would be interested to get confirmation that my experience is nothing to worry about or maybe I have a smaller capacity tank for some strange reason Thanks

Hi all, I’ve just got my hands on a 1992 2.6 v6 Audi 80 in good condition (considering price) and have done what most buyers do first and changed the oil. It was very murky and smelled strongly of petrol so I decided to flush. 4 times I flushed and drained each time after letting it run for around 10 minutes. The oil would not clear up and was persistently murky and fuel smelling. After doing a bit of my own research I believe my piston rings may be worn and allowing excess smoke and fuel into the crank case. So I’m looking for some advice. I have no warning light and she runs smooth for now. Is it worth doing an engine rebuild, and has anyone had any issues that they might be able to let me know so I know what to expect. Thanks in advance!

Hi and thanks for the response, no it does not have the CCS plug, just the type 2. Whilst I understand your point about some suppliers not maintaining there charge points, the latest one was at a Best Western Hotel, the charge points were relatively new, a security deposit was taken, but the the charge failed to start. In itself it doesn’t spoil the trip, as the petrol / normal hybrid modes take over and we still get a pretty decent mpg, but the plan was to start each day with a full tank and full battery, optimising the efficiency of the car. Hopefully it will be a setting on the vehicle, making the journey back a lot less infuriating. Cheers again, arrividerci 😎

Hi the newer Audis are mostly the same, not good except for possibly Q3s that use mostly VW engines and running gear, in saying that most car manufacturers are having the same cost cutting driven problems with the exception of Toyota that consistently produce good reliable vehicles, not as plush as the Audi but why pay that money for the A4/A6 with no inherent reliability. Steve.

Hate to point this out but even if you fit a new steering angle sensor you have to recode it, if it sounds like a lot of work, its not half as much work if you don't get the wiring right as well as the coding, the electronics on these vehicles has always been complex and if you fry a body control module [any one of about five] you then have a serious problem. Steve.

Thank you Francis. I agree with all you've mentioned. I also agree with the fairly regular oil and filter changes. I know when I sold my car via Motorway they didn't complain about non Ford dealer services

Thank you , Joe. I bought an A3 on a 24 plate ( about 5 weeks ago) and it has done 18,000 odd miles. It has 1 years warranty left and the next service will be in 2027 and need it's first mot , too. I'm not being morbid , but I'm now 71 years old and of course whilst no one can for tell the future I would be reluctant to pay the all in plan.£700+ ( I believe that what I was quoted) ,as I might not be here?? Yes I would prefer to use an independent garage and I would definitely ensure that they use Audi parts. I'm not in a huge rush but need to make up my mind soon. I will have to look for a good independent garage and try and compare their costs. I do have an independent garage I've used in the past for previous cars. I shall have to enquire and see what price he quotes me too. I know when I used the Ford forums there was a "good garages" scheme?