All Activity

Normally the ‘o’ ring. The mating surface on the sump needs to be clean. I’ve seen this job done before with a vacuum without draining the oil. Lightly lube new oil sensor seal with fresh oil, and nip up bolts. Don’t quote me, but think only 10Nm.

Makes a bit more sense now Abeer. 22 inch on an S3!

The door on a B9 is different to a B9.5: B9: B9.5:

Yes that is correct. I think what is putting you off is the fact that I have Audi s3 8v on as the vehicle in my description bit? And yes they are 22inch wheels on my rs7

Many thanks Abeer, Am I wrong in interpreting your description, that you have 22? inch wheels on the car? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Hello all thanks for letting me join , I have a 2016 S3 8V and have an oil leak from the oil level sensor . Replaced the sensor with an OEM part but the leak continues. Above the sump is bone dry along the sump is dry aswell managed to check it on the lift at work.Any advice will be appreciated

Hello Gareth, Appreciate your response. Do you not think if it was the alignment I would have noticed the difference closer to when it was done? Regarding the tyre pressure they are all up to the guidelines from Audi and i checked these as soon as i felt the difference. The tread seems to be pretty consistent on all 4 also. It’s got the Ventus Stevo3 22s on.

Update. The master tech from Poole Audi phoned this afternoon saying all done and I will be able to pick it up in the morning. I asked what work was done to fix the fault and was just told a total reboot 🤔. But assured me it has sorted it. Guess I will just have to see for myself but I hope it has sorted it. As for a goodwill gesture, I can only hope 🤔

Hello Abeer, Cutting into this thread, I begin to think that the wheel alignment alteration may well represent the point of change of this car’s handling, unless that chronology doesn’t stack up. ‘Tyres not changed ..’ What brand of tyres are on each axle? Is the amount of tread even on both tyres on each axle? What tyre pressures are you running, and have these been checked (when cold) against Audi’s recommended pressures? Be aware, the increase in running pressures ( over cold set) will not be insignificant in these high ambient temperatures. Regards, Gareth.

Hi, i havent had the tyres changed recently. I did have the alignment done over 5 weeks ago. Is an OBDeleven fine ? There are no faults showing on the dash

Have you changed the tyres recently, or had the steering alignment altered? If not the car needs to be diagnosed on a decent code reader.

Although Neil’s latest response has currently been hidden, I am of the view that it should be displayed so other members are aware of the reaction we receive when asking members who seek information to simply return with some meaningful answers to a aid the help they ask for. It does seem that despite the request ‘All new members please read…’, there still remains an element of - I will ask a question, but I will choose whether I will acknowledge help given, or indeed answer any questions which might help others to help me. Simply not on! Regards, Gareth.

Hi all, Ive got an rs7 c8 and recently a few days ago i noticed my steering feeling abnormally light. Even when changing into dynamic/RS mode it feels the same and doesnt stiffen up like it used to when I bought it a couple weeks back. Feels like Im losing control at higher speeds and just feels abnormal If im being honest. Wondering if anyone has experienced something like this before. I did go to my local audi and raised the concern they checked the shocks suspension alignment etc and said they couldnt see any issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.

Also, when fitting a donor door, transfer all modules over from your existing door as this should help reduce the risk of electrical gremlins with central locking etc.

Thank you for updating us 🙂

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with a mad sensor.

Check service history for proof of cambelt/water pump changes unless it's a chain. If chain then listen for rattle on start up and driving. It'll be an auto I suspect so check there's proof of gearbox oil changes as the s tonic box doesn't like to have old oil. Usually it's first or reverse that refuse to engage. But check all gears a smooth. Again check for service history of quattro system. Check all electrical items work. AC works consistently in all vents as issues with the system can get expensive. Check all leds are working in rear lights. Look for any proof of dpf, egr issues in service history.

Cliffcoggin - thanks for the reply - I absolutely hear what you're saying - and I know the car does need a new clutch (and DMF) since there's a slight judder (no slip) getting rolling - and that's likely to be exacerbating my problems. However (and I've taken it out for a test drive since my first posting) this is something tested statically with engine off and me hunting for the gate and being able to demonstrate clean gear engagement versus complete block-out of the gear depending on my approach to the gear stick. I'm absolutely not discounting your advice - it's the proper solution, but choosing to throw my head in the sand at the moment - a local price of £1500 for clutch/DMF is a bitter pill until I know if it passes an MOT in a couple of months time... low miles since recent retirement means a diesel may not be best suited for me. Again, thanks for your reply.

Mike. Although it's possible that the gear linkage needs adjusting, there is absolutely no point trying that if it is known the clutch is worn out. The inability to select some gears is typical of defective master or slave cylinders preventing the clutch from opening fully. I'd say your problem is centred on the clutch.

Thanks Jason, Opinions vary. ‘What exactly do you want me to reply to?’ Answer - Questions raised in the first 3 paragraphs of my post as asked an hour after your original request for help. Answers are more likely to generate the advice you asked for. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jerry, Common problem across many marques. I’ve used EBay aftermarket ones in the past and they have done what they supposed to do. Consideration;- originals have lasted 9 years, aftermarket are less than 1/10 of the cost, so if they last a year, you are quids in. What’s not to like? Could you please keep the forum updated on what you do, so that other members can benefit from your experience. Regards, Gareth.

Not sure if this should be a B8 or B9 forum post but here goes... 2016 plate 2.0 TDI avant with the DEUA engine - everything suggests closer to a B9 than B8 including my recent replacement undertray and 8W5 on the options card. When at rest with the gearbox in neutral I have on occasions struggled to get into 1st or 2nd gear. As I move to the left gate, then push up or down there's an absolute resistance. No meshing of gears or anything, but a physical lock on the gear stick. I can release and select 3/4 (or 5/6) with ease, but pulling away in 3rd is a little haphazard. Occasionally, I'll select reverse, instead of 1st, which is always entertaining at the traffic lights for me and the car behind. In these situations amongst the panic I will select neutral and then back to 1st and inevitably will reselect reverse. At the same time I'll try to remedy by going to 2nd, and that's usually locked out with the same mechanical block. This happened last night in a supermarket carpark as I'm reversing, and I'm nearing the end of my tether (the car needs expensive work including clutch/DMF.... and it's getting tired and at 10 years old I'm thinking of just driving into the ground. Anyway, this morning out of frustration, and having a session with ChatGPT I did try a few static tests. It's possible that I'm at fault here - if I analyse my behaviour I think I'm probably selecting the left gate and then pushing the gear stick in the 7 / 11 o'clock direction - i.e. a force applied laterally to the passenger side as well as pushing forward and backwards. If I consciously bias this way I can reproduce the fault (in fact I thought I'd completely lost 2nd until I worked out that I was applying the lateral force as well). Statically, both engine running an engine off I can reproduce not being able to select 1st and 2nd. Unsure if this is representative of my actual driving style, particularly if I'm panicking at the lights trying to get into 1st, but it's quite possible/probable. I'll know next time it happens. I hope. BUT, long story short, are there any adjustments, or (following the generalised advice from ChatGPT) any cable adjustment, or selector mechanism to be investigated for wear / adjusted to avoid this situation (/resolve the 1st/2nd gear selection)? I've seen YT videos of adjusting cables in the engine bay but never with a DEUA engine. ChatGPT suggests (and I sort of agree) this is likely a mechanical issue before it even hits the gearbox, and the engine-off test absolves the otherwise high mileage clutch/DMF.