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Because the timing chain/valve problem is the result of plain and simple neglect, so you can be sure it will not be the only bit of maintenance that has been neglected. The chances are that the rest of the engine is worn out. The car may look immaculate but it is is actually a broken down wreck.
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Mjaz joined the community -
colefordkid joined the community -
You're welcome 🙂 please keep us posted on how you get on
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Really no need to shout Mark - we don’t do that on here. Your car, your decision, your logic. Look at it like this Mark, you know the full facts, and if you only share that information with us as you see fit, then it makes it very difficult for anyone to offer you logical advice. Good luck with it.
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If you remove the part, there will be an Audi part or VAG number on it. To be honest after market undertrays are cheap plastic. Search on EBay for genuine part, or a breakers years. One word of warning if you find anything on breakersyard.com, utter charlatans.
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Thanks probably best to remove first then have a look cheers for your time take care
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You're most welcome. You need to make sure you get one from the same engine and gearbox as yours as the undertrays can vary depending on the engine or gearbox due to there differing in size etc.
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Right… Audi s4 4.2 v8, 78k genuine miles with full Audi service history. Just under 11 months MOT. Why would this be worth more scrap when it could literally be just a case of replacing valves? Money isn’t an issue for me as I’ve already stated… FOR ME ITS LEARNING or did you miss that part?
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I got both the hubs and bearing kit from ebay with the bearing kit £17.50 ea included both bolts from carpartsinmotion they had good feedback and the hubs purely on price 2 front for £50 from brillbuyuk although they have good feedback
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Probably worth more for scrap/ breaking than the cost to rectify the issue. If you are not thinking that far ahead, then you certainly aren’t thinking about the whole issue from a logical point of view
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So where did you buy your Febi parts from Tony? Ferodo? that’s why I asked him how old his mechanic was. In Mk 3 Cortina days - when you couldn’t give them away, unlike now, when they aren’t affordable! - The two makes of brake shoes and pads to buy were Ferodo and Mintex. Now?? Like Cortinas , things have moved on. Wouldn’t any longer be my choice, but…
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Not sure not even thought that far ahead? Would probably keep it for myself
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OK Mark, but repeating :- What value would you put on the car when it’s up and running properly? Take it it has a sensibly long current MOT.
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Yes I guess magnet. For me it’s all about learning, I’m getting into the mechanics side of things and these are great ways for me to learn! So far the car owes me less than £400! The car is in immaculate condition!
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So it’s head off then, and replace at least 2 valves - they don’t stick if they aren’t slightly bent. New timing chain and associated components. Refit everything and keep fingers crossed that the work and expense has resulted in some sort of rectification. How do you value this 20 year old car Mark, when you have it back in reasonable working order?
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I have the knob in the boot on the right, the light goes from red to green etc, however when turning and holding I can’t release the tow bar, that means I can’t deploy is there anywhere I can spray or check the solenoid
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Hi all help is needed here please i I bought my c6 Allroad about 12 months ago, the seller said the backup camera needed calibration I’ve looked around etc as I was told it should work but a blank screen through mmi 2g high is more likely a hardware fault. i have changed the switch box on the right hand side, I have fitted a 3rd party camera. Then I found the Audi only works on a 5v system so with 3rd party camera I boosted the v to 12v and bingo I have a picture. i have now bought an original camera and back to a blank screen so boosted to 12v and it works. i was then told it’s the mmi screen so I have updated to an android radio and again blank 12v and it works how do I increase the power to the camera or is there something wrong else where? many thanks
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A3 rear o/s Suspension Misting - Dealership not helpful
cliffcoggin replied to Dusk2Dawn's topic in Audi A3 (8V) Forum
I agree a second opinion would be worthwhile, however I think you will be very lucky to win a warranty claim on a six year old car. -
Phil6157 joined the community -
Car was cheap as it was a family member … if the valve did indeed make contact with the piston, wouldn’t this have marked the piston? The piston in both 2 and 8 look perfectly fine?
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Now you know why the car was so cheap. A new or rebuilt engine is needed.
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Yeah the rear part has come off at the front section but the front part the screws are very rusty and loose really want to get it changed. Have seen some parts on Ebay but unsure if correct part. Thanks again for time its greatly appreciated 👍
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It might not be as bad as you think as the under tray is in two parts. Front for the engine and rear for the gearbox. Looks like it's come apart at the join.
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Cheers @Turlough I remember buying Fedoro parts donkeys years ago when I had an old mk3 cortina never gave them a thought but haven't yet started on the rears.
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Hi guys thanks for the responses! So I recently purchased the car for a VERY cheap price with this problem. (I love a gamble!) again paid very cheap! the car still starts just misfires… On both cylinder 2 and 8 it’s only 1 valve on each that is only very slightly open. Would the cams being out not cause this? I’m from the West Midlands by the way Magnet!
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A3 8P 2011 2.0TDI - Problem with aircon/heating unit
Steve Q replied to Morto's topic in Audi A3 (8P) Forum
Aircon compressor could be at fault. Has the system been pressure tested? -
Cheers Gareth I've just got Febi front hubs and wheel bearing kit along with a Frenkit caliper recon kit for my S2 front caliper conversion upgrade 🤞 but may need cv joints or complete shafts depending on their condition once off and wishbones.
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