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So, I took the car out for an eight or nine-mile trip today - to get some breakfast... ...which was very pleasant. On the way home, in addition to the DPF light (which had been on from the get-go), I got the flashing glow-plug light, shortly followed by the check engine light. The triumvirate of misery... ☹️ When I got home, I plugged Carly in, and after 20 minutes or so, got the following result: The Smart Mechanic says: ...and goes on to say... So, it doesn't tell me much more than the light on the dash. My DPF is clogged and isn't re-genning as it should. No clue as to why... 🤔 It mentions a control unit - anyone know what/where this is please? Thanks, Mike 😎

Reg. You have not said whether the window movement is random or erratic. Is it possible the windows actually need to move out of the way when the hood is raised and lowered?

There seem to be a lot of unknown factors in this conversion Steve, any one of which could bring the project to a dead stop. It is not something I would have taken on even 40 years ago when I was willing and able to get my hands dirty, unless there was certainty about the result.

Once again I can only hear broken audio so all I can suggest is to take the car back for diagnosis.

Anyone know where to locate the brake servo sensor?

Glad you had it done and it's made the car nicer. Well done for getting the gearbox remapped too as this often gets overlooked.

I'd recommend taking it back to the garage for further diagnosis. Could it be the heater controls which includes the AC button?

Sorry to hear that

So we had a new condenser fitted yesterday and got a new pressure switch and we had the car re gased the AC is all working and holding but the noice comes back when the AC button in side the car is switched off. The noice goes away when I switch AC button on.. I have attached a video you can hear the difference change when the AC bottom goes off.. sounds tiny/echo only from inside the Car. Could this just be the AC settling and just need time.. since owning the car it's never had working AC so I can't tell how it was before. it's now had new AC compressor & condenser & pressure switch all new parts not reconditioned We are at a loss now with the noice 🤔 PXL_20250705_095539542.mp4

I just got confirmation from Audi that all A5 models come with mild-hybrid technology. Unfortunately this is a deal-breaker for me as I was planning to keep this car for over 10 years and the cost to fix a possible problem with that system is usually way too high.

‘Evangelical’ Spartacus!?

Thanks the mgzt v6 is another they have a pipe and thermostat housing available in alloy. All down to cost at the end of the day in our throw away society. I have an engineer that makes me bits once in a while will maybe send him a plastic one to see what he thinks

Will have a look at the wires you suggested, Watch this space will let you know.

The A2OC are fairly evangelical bunch, and rightly so considering the last A2 rolled off the production line in 2005. We used to have a 1.4 TDI. Great cars but a little unrefined, but they were ahead of their time. Audi hated them at the time, especially main dealers as it didn’t fit the mould of the car range at the time. Back to this pipe. It reminds me of my brother’s Jeep Grand Cherokee. In his case it’s in the valley of a V6 diesel and the only way to fix is to dismantle half the engine. I think some owners resorted to changing the pipe to a more robust design as it’s a known weak point. I think your best bet is go back to A2OC as this is very niche. There must be lots of owners still about and have a wealth of knowledge on the fix. I hope you get it fixed.

Welcome Reg, and thanks for joining. To save you buying components in the hope the fault lies with them, have you tried measuring the voltage ( and earth continuity) at suspected components? That would be my plan of action - if it helps. Regards, Gareth.

What is the ID of the pipe Richard? Regards, Gareth.

I've still not given up on the A6 and still considering options. As the title suggests I'm wondering if the Audi/VW 2.5tdi inline 5 engine could fit in my A6 C5. Here's the research I've done so far: Pros 1. I'm thinking parts would be more readily available for the 5 cylinder as it had a 17 year production run 89-06) in various cars including the A6, VW T4, VW lt and Volvo 850/V70 (known as D5252T). Whereas the V6 only had an 8 year production run in Audi A4, A6, VW Passat and Skoda superb. 2. They are an older style of engine so easier to work on and they can be converted to mechanical fuel pump rather than electrical. 3. In the A6 and VW LT they are mounted longitudinally and can mount to the 01e gearbox that's currently in my A6 as bellhousings are the same. 4. No change in emissions class as the 2.5tdi 5 cylinder is euro 3 like the 2.5tdi V6. 5. Proven to be a very reliable engine and can run on veg oil (WVO). Cons: 1. Longer engine so might be a tight squeeze in the engine bay. C4 from bellhouse to front of viscouse fan measures around 64 cm, while the allroad seems to measure around 58. The small difference looks to be a result of the fan wich is pulled forward on the allroad. 2. Less refined as the V6 with max power output of 140bhp whereas my A6 had 155. 3. Can't use a code reader. I5 engine uses an archaic 8 Bit ECU with no VNT provision, but can be converted to run the later T4 multivan ECU which can be flashed trough OBD and is capable to run a VNT turbo. Unknowns: 1. Does DVLA need to be notified of the engine swap (other than engine code) as I'm going from a 2.5tdi to a 2.5tdi? (I know insurance would). 2. Getting the C5 instrument cluster to work (but this would be an issue with any engine swap) 3. Would engine height be an issue? 4. The C4 engine mounts seems not to be attached to the subframe but directly to the cars body, so I doubt if that can be done without welding. I'd appreciate your thoughts on this 🙂

Apologies I've only just seen this. I still have the A6 but no further forward to be honest. They definitely become a labour of love. The issue I've found with the 2.5tdi V6 is parts availablity for the engine now. How are you getting on with yours?

Ideally you'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. It might also be worth contacting Audi to see if there's a software update available for the mmi.

I guess you could always get a diagnostic check at a garage? Or an automatic electrician

Hey all Have an annoying issue , my mmi sound stops working from time to time , i have to turn off car and unplug the leads from the amplifier in the boot for around 10 min and then reconnect and it works again . Has anybody else has this issue , is there a better way to fix this without having to unplug everything ? turning mmi off and on doesn't work . Thanks

Will try that again with new keyboard😁 Brother has all the diagnostic kit getting him to bring it over is the challenge. Is that better👍😁

Hey don't shoot me down!! Death pipe is what the the bunch over on the A2 owners club and other sites call it (Not me) I assumed you all called it that I'm new to the A2 FSI just looking for help and advice please don't jump on me with For goodness sake it's only leaking coolant pipe!! That's not much help to me or anyone else

Example for the Audi A6 2019 (MY2020). Part list as it did not fit on the screen grab.

I think a fundamental problem might be that some dealers will check to see if there is a Recall on a car. By this I mean a Recall that is proactively pushed to owners even if their vehicle is fine. I could be wrong, but I think that some dealers may not realise that there are a number of active Recall items that only become applicable if a given unit fails. In my case the affected part was the MHEV Belt Starter Generator.(BSG) Whilst it should not be necessary, it is worth keeping an eye on what recalls are in place on your car, so that if a relevant fault occurs you can take the evidence to Audi. An example is in my post above. This information is on the gov.uk website at https://www.check-vehicle-recalls.service.gov.uk/recall-type/vehicle/make