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If the diagnosis was at an Audi dealer I suggest you find a gearbox specialist and get his opinion. Dealers don't do repairs, only replacements; whereas specialists may have a more optimistic diagnosis and a cheaper solution.

Look in the boot, there's usually a build sticker, that will have engine code, 3 or 4 letters next to small print that says 'engine code'. Usually sits under the total KW capacity of engine. LY9C is Ibis White.

Hi all wonderful if you could help please. after a long drive a vibration started just underneath the gearstick and msg came up says gearbox malfunction you can continue driving. Took it for a diagnostic please see photo then they said I have to change the whole gearbox I am in no position to do that, one guessing it’s Mechatronics. Anyone else had this issue before? Or anyone know a good specialist in London so I can take it to them? Thank you in advance much appreciate if you reply. Regards Zed Can’t attach pic here are the outcome of diagnostic ASAM/ODX File ID:EV_TCMDL382021_002020 Code: 100001 DTC (4) P091400 Gear Shift Position Circuit P093000 Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Control Circuit - Low POC2900 Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump Driver - Circuit Performance 4. P090400 Gate Select Position Circuit 03 Brake Electronics Vw/Audi Part Number:4G0907379S Software Version:0530 Hardware Part Number:4G0907379S Hardware Version:H01 System Description:ESP9 Premium ASAM/ODX File ID:EV_ESP9BOSCHAU57X_004018 Code:06A29E41604579829B00 ٨٦٢ /٢١ Passive/Sporadic Active/Static Active/Static Passive/Sporadic

Thank you. When I’ve cleaned and got the cobwebs off of him I think I’ll advertise on here. Not sure how to find a price though

It seems to me that one or more plastic gears have broken, just as Richard suggested, so no amount or resetting will have an effect. You need to remove the unit and repair it if possible, or replace it if repair is impossible.

Thanks.. I'll have to keep searching for the correct reboot sequence for my model, as I only have the buttons shown in the photo below and every combo I've found online so far hasn't worked to reset or reboot anything. I've managed to turn the system off by pressing and holding the volume knob only.

Hi Steve - have looked in the handbook and the only numbers I can see are - Either F3B CZG or LY9C The engine is petrol

First thing i checked was fuses before disconnecting battery, then attempting reset via control switch,as i stated in post i cannot access boot to get to the pump/control module..i need advice on how to access boot.

Reboot here. https://youtu.be/hvxQfG812wY That said, if it was previously making a noise, suspect broken nylon cog on the motor or such like. Trouble with these infotainment screens, is the dash is under constant heat in summer, so any grease will dry out. Search YouTube. Couple of videos they’re accessing screen by removing air vents and accessing screws. You’ll need plastic anti-marr trim tools.

Have you checked the fuse? Pretty sure you can manually over-ride. The hydraulic fluid reservoir will be in boot, etc. https://youtu.be/XQsxjGBmEeg?is=upf2_ZM2pLvaf6FR

On sites, have used Euro Car Parts and basically collected. Autodoc is good, however will take at least a couple of weeks to arrive. Avoid buying direct from Germany. I used to use Hubauer Shop for genuine BMW kit, however they don’t add tax, so you pay Royal Mail to release. That’s Brexit for you.

Have used Febi before, top mount for wife’s BMW i3, VW brake shields, that sort of thing. A 3.0 TDI is a different kettle of fish though. I have an A4 Allroad with 3.0 TDI, so know it’s heavy. Pretty sure the front and rear (front suspension) lower arms are hydra bushes, so basically fluid filled. Lemforder as you say is OE. Only other thing I’d consider is Meyle HD as comes with 4 year warranty. I broke a rear spring on my car and fitted Lesjöfors after cross checking part numbers. Car is jittery as anything, so that’s all coming back out and I’m fitting genuine Audi. With suspension, don’t cut corners. Not saying Febi is bad, but those arms will last fraction of OE Lemforder arm, plus you’ll have labour again to swap out.

Hello everyone I have been the fortunate owner of an A6 C6 3.0 tdi quattro for the last year and 3 months with (surprisingly and thankfully) no issues. The time has come to change the control arms (both front and rear) After some research I am still yet to arrive to a decision so I thought I would ask the Audi community for some advice to best help me I understand lemforder is an OEM supplier to Audi but the pricing of febi bilstein products are tempting, especially given the fact to change all the control arms including labor would cost as much as I bought the car for. Has anyone used febi bilstein parts, specifically for controls arms and what is your experience with them? Which site would you all recommend I purchase the parts from (autodoc vs GSF vs eurocarparts vs etc)? Any other suspension components worth changing while it is all apart or should I just purchase a full kit? How much should I budget for labor? And last any specialists or even general independent garages garages you would recommend in the Worcestershire area (or even slightly further afield if highly rated)? Apologies for the onslaught of messages and any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks Martin - now amended. Good luck with finding it a new home. Regards, Gareth.

I have a 2006 b7 4.2 convertible, its roof has failed!,I’ve tried disconnecting battery to reset/hel switch open and closed for 30secs??, i cant access the boot to access pump etc, any advice would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

It may be better to change from Octopus Intelligent Go with its variable cheap times controlled by Octopus, to Octopus Go which has fixed times for cheap electricity and use the car's own controls for charging. You would lose the convenience of the phone app but gain more cheap electrons.

Hi look for your engine designation in the handbook, my daughters was a CFFA 2.0 diesel, no wet belt involved except the later versions which have a wet belt for the oil pump drive which I would recommend changing as well. Please state if you have petrol or diesel. Steve.

Hi Steve - thanks for that. One further query on this subject. How do i know what tyoe of belt i have fitted (wet, dry, chain)? Does the replacement criteria apply across the board? Thanks

The key is that to get the cheap rate electric you have to let them decide when to charge the car i.e when overall demand is least. The bonus if that when this is outside the cheap rate period the whole house is on that rate, 6.9p/Kwh, as well. When I plug the car in it starts to charge which is recognised by Octopus when they receive a signal from the car. They then control the car to turn off the charge until their scheduled charging periods during the night. The car only has a 10 kwh usable capacity but when the system works it is more that adequate for running around locally. I have only filled up with petrol once this year.. I can always run the engine to charge the motive battery but that seems to negate the point of having a hybrid. The only settings I make via their app is the level of charge in car that I want them to achieve and the time in the morning that I want to use it. Thank you for your interest

Sorry Gareth I'm looking for £350 thanks Martin

Hello Martin, Thanks for joining and placing your detailed advertisement. Only thing that’s missing is the price you want for it. We seriously avoid ‘offers’ to minimise both buyers and sellers being messed around. I will amend your advert if you post the price on a second post. I will also remove your e-mail contact - this is an open to all forum - and replace it with ‘Please PM me if of interest. Regards, Gareth.

Hi I'm selling my 1999 audi avant 1.9tdi would anybody in the club be interested in it. It has got 226100 miles on the clock but starts first time and drives very well. On the last MOT it had an advisory on an oil leak on the front of the engine .it's just had a rear caliper and pads fitted ,also a rear back box but now it has an abs fault showing on the dash MOT till 8TH of September it's white in colour the body work is in very good condition for a car of that year it has some minor blemishes but that's to be expected the interior is ok no rips or holes I'm open to offers on it I can't think of a better place to sell it than in the audi club .I've owned the car for the last15 years so I want it to go to a good home and not to be scapped I live in Liverpool if you need anymore info please PM me if of interest. £350. Martin.

Hi all, I have bought my wife a 2019 Audi TT RHD which she loves. I wanted to transfer the car cam from her old car to the Audi but I cant find the fuse box in the car. The manual says in the RHD model the fusebox is hidden behind a panel in the back of the glovebox but there doesnt seem to be a panel as shown in the manual. Is there a panel that can be removed to get to the fuses or alternatively has anybody installed a car cam with an alternative connection for power and what is the most convenient way to install it please? I dont fancy having a dangling cable into a power socket in the dash. many thanks Frank

Hi everyone, After standing for a couple of weeks the car will not start. It turns over normally, no trouble codes are present so trying to trouble shoot the fueling. Tracked down the fuel pump relay to the left hand plenum electrical box ( relay part no: 8Z0 951 253 ) If I bridge pins 30 and 87 (thick red and green ) the fuel pump runs, pumping around half a litre in a few seconds at the fuel filter. The thin red/blue has 12v on it when the ignition is on, from what I red the ECU should apply a ground for a few seconds to the red/white wire. Checking the relay unplugged with 12v across the 2 thin wires ( pins 85 and 86 ) the relay works, connecting the green and red ( pins 30 & 87 ) . I guess this points to the ECU not suppling the earth when it should .. my question is do u think it is safe to apply an earth to red/white to test this theory? I did try cranking the motor with the fuel pump running ( pins 30 & 87 bridged ) but the motor didn't fire so perhaps there are further problems? Any thoughts or suggestions warmly received... Cheers John

The MMI screen in my 2017 A3 (8V??) won't go up anymore. For a while it's been making a weird noise sometimes when the car starts and the screen is moving up as the system starts up. It seemed to be a mechanical noise, like something was rubbing against something, or a gear with grinding, but it was really hard to pinpoint. Also, not my daily driver, so I often forgot that it happened. Now the screen comes on, but doesn't rise out of the dash. I was able to remove it from the dash and see the screen working, and the whole time bluetooth audio and radio have been functioning while the screen is stuck in the down position. I've checked all the fuses that referenced "Infotainment Components" in the manual. Oddly "F16" which is marked as "infotainment components" was missing from the fuse box completely. I can only assume it was always missing. I did temporarily put a 10-amp fuse in there in case it had fallen out somehow, but the screen still didn't rise. If I can't get the screen to go up and down like it's supposed to, I'd be happy to have it up permanently. Does anyone have a suggestion for either: Something else to check, maybe there is an oddly labelled fuse that might still be connected to the screen operation or Any ideas on how to get the screen to go up? I did think that it would be possible to just supply power to the motor that's stuck on the back of the screen assembly. Maybe that would spin and raise the screen. I don't hear any noises like the screen is trying to rise up out of the dash. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks