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I don't understand the first post bit, you bought a new engine, then put it into storage for 2 years and then got the issue, or was the new engine put in after the 2 year storage. The fuel would be 2 years old unless you drained it and the fuel filter would be blocked. I fitted a brand new engine from vw into a transporter and they hadn't tightened the new injectors from the factory, I would be checking everything in case its not sealing properly. Did the new engine come timed up, the vw one had no belt and no fuel pump but it had injectors.

Thank you.

It was an easy fix actually. I shouldnt have made the post. The problem was that rear speakers were disconnected. Why i didnt get bass from subwoofer, was bc fader was turned all they way to front speakers. Im new to cars and didnt even know a fader button exists.

Hi, I have an Audi q3 1.5 tfsi s line, 2024 model, Audi say they do not supply engine covers anymore for that engine.

I’m sure I did respond but not I cannot find a respond button on the above answers. Only this comment allows me to answer. I have booked the car in for tests so appreciate all responses Regards Raj

So.. update on this incase anyone out there comes across this thread: There are 2 variations of turbo for the early A3 8P's early versions (like mine, with the asymmetric bolt pattern on the muffler) were manufactured by Borg Warner later versions use a IHI turbo (which uses the symmetric bolt pattern on the muffler) There is still a muffler delete out there, RTMG maufacture one which looks to fit, although I've yet to try it: RTMG PerformanceMuffler Delete for K03 Turbocharger 1.8 TSIMuffler Delete Adapter for Borg Warner KKK K03 1.8 TSI EA888 Gen 1 & Gen 2 Turbochargers. The K03 Turbocharger has a muffler in the compressor housing which resonates with the turbocharger noise a

Washer bottle filters are available on eBay for around £20.00 🤨

Any comment on the above replies Raj? I know you have seen them.

How about helping other members in a similar situation by telling us what was wrong and how it was fixed?

Got it fixed. Closed.

I was thinking about boosters, I'm probably gonna do booster and antenna to get the best 👌

Hi the antenna I bought off of eBay for about twenty quid, easy enough to fit just involves taking the boot head liner out to get at the old unit, the wiring terminals were grotty so I cut and crimped in new loop rings, that made a fair difference but the biggest gain was from the signal amplifier which was a massive upgrade but I got a local auto audio firm to fit that, in saying that you can now buy remote boosters that just plug in to the power socket. Steve.

Actually Steve, meant to ask if you could recommend a half decent antenna? I'm not sure where to start.... Cheers

Cheers, a couple places to start looking.. . The person I bought it off said it was always cutting out when she had it so I think it's likely a fault rather than bad signal. I'll update if I get any results. 👍

Legend mate thanks for taking the time to tell me this. It Gives me a heads up about the reality of buying 2016-17-18 models. Just going to apply everything you’ve said if i get a Q7 or similar with the 3.0 Tdi

Hello, my A3 gives no sound at all from rear speakers. I think it has an original factory subwoofer/amp in the back inside left wall. The amp clicks when turning radio on and off but gives no bass. What can I do to fix these problems? 1997 Audi A3 1.8T 8L Edit: after tweaking with fader button the subwoofer actually seems to give some bass

A Google search should come up with more. Hope the forum is being of help to you Peter. Regards, Gareth.

It's about getting the engine to operating temperature and a decent run every so often. Short runs would be 10-15 miles. If this is for urban commuting, that's when you get into issues, start-stop, etc. At some point the EGR valve will clog - that's inevitable on diesels. In addition AdBlue is known to weak point, as it uses integral tank with pump and sender. I've started using Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. You can also use Forte fuel conditioner (for diesels) straight in the fuel tank on a quarter full and drive it like you stole it for 15-20 mins. The fuel filter needs changed, so do this every 20k miles. Helps clean injectors, etc. Also treat the car to premium diesel. Older Euro 4 diesels could be used for short run journeys, but eventually intake manifolds get carbon build up, or sticky vanes on the turbo. Euro 6 - the engine is regenerating anyway, which is where the engine heats up to effectively burn off soot via DPF. These cars tend to be sensor heavy, so irrespective of whether you're spanner handy, I'd advocate getting VCDS (via Gendan), as the car will store logged faults. Main dealer will charge you £200 minimum for scan. In fact - it's worth even checking any perspective new purchase. Logged or stored faults will remain unless cleared. Usually referred to as DTCs. If you are spanner handy - then things like retracting rear electro-mechanic handbrake, priming fuel pump and relearning motors such as panoramic sunroof are useful to have. Audi also use ODIS dealer level software. Controls programming features, security, etc. I know for example that even Golf Mk 8 - you can't service rear brakes without it. Sign of things to come I'm afraid. As chains and tensioners are at the back of the engine - then it's an engine out job to replace, along with plastic guides. Should be good for the life of the engine, but where they get camshaft sprocket wear or chain slap is on cars that were on long-service regimes (up to 18k miles) between oil changes. Look carefully at the service history and avoid anything that's not been serviced at up to 10-12k mile intervals. No oil can maintain viscosity and lubricating qualities at that sort of mileage. Audi will tell you different, but this was brought in to satisfy fleet managers trying to reduce costs. Most of these cars were 3-4 years old on finance deals, so bill is normally picked up by next unsuspecting owner down the line. Tiptronic boxes do have a ZF service kit - so if not done I would get this done at 60-80k miles for peace of mind. Front and rear diffs usually good up to 100k miles.

Just a small update, while waiting for the ecu to arrive, nearly all wiring that is not required has been removed. The ecu will go behind the glovebox as thats where the engine wiring will come through. The column switches will probably be removed, as the new switches will be on the new steering wheel.

Hi Kyle, I just filled it up to the max line, started the car and let it run for few minutes, then topped it up a bit more. Took it for a 5 mile drive and checked the level after, let it cool down and topped it up again. (keep monitoring for a few days after) Hope this helps

Hi mate some good info on there, thanks for the help Im prepared for the maintenance costs. on the diesel side with the DPF filter etc. do you have any advice on mileage should i be doing to avoid carbon build up. I wont be using the vehicle daily but im prepared to do a long trip at least once a month to prevent particle issues. What is a short run by a diesel engine standard? once again thanks Owen

Hi fit a new DAB antenna, loads on line that are better than the oe but first check the antenna on the roof as they often suffer with corrosion and don't work properly, my car was the same and I replaced all of the usual suspects with only a little improvement so I had convinced myself it must be my area, but the Passat I have's a similar set up but the only time it cuts out is when I get an electric bus along side me. Steve.

Do your neighbours have similar FM radio problems? If so it is likely the matter is just poor signal strength which you can do nothing about. DAB is widely variable across the whole country, which is why FM has been retained long after it was supposed to be dropped.

Oh the joys of a failing battery … even that isn’t simple anymore 🤔😂

Sorry, not sure. I do not think the engine shape has changed so the earlier top cover may fit. If you know some one with the earlier model it is worth trying to see.