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The O2 sensor was replaced by a garage, I hope they readapted. I noticed I have 2 pressure sensors (one has both ends connected and the second only one) and they are next to eachother. Should I replace them both?

Oh dear. I can safely say I won't be trying that myself. Thanks for the heads up anyway Steve.

Hi did you readapt the O2 sensor and the DPF after it was cleaned as it has to learn its new soot/ash levels from empty, if so and it still keeps doing it it may well be the DPF pressure sensor, thats the one with two pipes that measures the gas flow pressure before and after the DPF if its not performing as it should it allows the DPF to fill up to far before trying to initiate a regen, check your soot levels as they should not exceed 30 grams. Steve.

Hi everyone, I hope I'm not going to create a double post (couldn't find anything similar). I have a A6 2.0L UltraTDI 2015. My issues started last year in April when the DPF light came up on my dash. I had an error for the O2 sensor which I replaced. Since then it keeps coming and going all the time. After it comes up, if will not take it on the motorway to do a regen, eventually it will go into limp mode with error DPF regeneration duration. In the last year I've replaced the O2 sensor, EGT2 sensor, turbo, EGR. Nothing changed. I took my car to 7 different garages including Audi garage and Audi specialists garages. No one can find the reason. I've cleaned the DPF with one of those company that comes to your house and does it but nothing changed. When I have the DPF error on my dash it's not showing anything on VCSD. Any ideas of what might be? Thank you

Hi I wish you luck with the warranty, its a hell of a job and requires significant stripping down as well as elastic arms and fingers to get it out, the easiest way is remove the front end and drag it out with the cat attached, I tried cleaning it in situ with every chemical known to man but ultimately it always needed replacing. Steve.

Hi looks like a good part as a lot of refurbished parts suffer poor finish and make you wonder, this looks like they have really gone to town on the refurb, these guys are definitely going to make a name for themselves, let us know how it performs. Steve.

Not been doing too much too her fixed the exhaust on properly and been looking for the red interior, last night had a good touch got a full set normally 600.00 to 1200.00, I won this for 136.00 yea totally stole it

Thanks for your reply Steve. The diagnostic platform's not mine but I think the reductant related codes will clear as the light comes on when AdBlue's low and then goes out a little while after re-filling. As for the p2002, I'll look into it as you suggest and maybe I should get the DPF cleaned. I'm hopeful that if it comes to it the EGR cooler would be covered under warranty.

Hi I am a new member. I have just had timing chain and cambelt changed on my 2006 plate 2.0FSI Quattro and now I have this error. P0011. I have a cheapy OBD reader that says it is something to do with the cam timing. Can anyone add any useful information? I will take the car back to the mechanic but just wondering if anybody else has had this.

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As I said I would, pictures of front suspension strut, how it was packaged, delivered and couple of pictures of attached parts eg residual valve, new aluminium bottle and the top electric connections. So far, so good. I'll have that fitted during the next week and hopefully it performs as good as it looks. Thanks for looking Renato

Agrees Cliff i may have found a replacement remanufactured box checked part numbers stamped on housing its 0AJ 301 103 only difference is the final letter on his is an A mine is a B do you know if there compatible thanks again

many thanks all

Hi Jim what diagnostic platform are you using?, try deleting the two codes for the reductant and see if they come back, the code I would be more alarmed about is p2002 thats a nasty one, its not that the DPF is blocked, thats still working, no its the low pressure EGR cooler, this is well documented on this forum and normally requires replacement I got through at least three of them in the time I owned my A6, the engines are common to the A4/A6 and due to the Ultra technology share the same emissions problems, the design is basically flawed as it takes gas for the DPF and burns it again problem is as it cools the gas through the cooler tubes the adblue crystals become solid again and block the tubes and the valve mounted on the cooler filling them with a slimy white mess, adblue wont harm paintwork etc but when it comes in to contact with basic steel it will corrode it and rot the tubes out and then you end up with adblue crystals in the expansion tank and causing a white film on the tailpipes, if you do search there is ton of info on here with pictures. Steve.

Did anyone try a different flywheel in the end? I'm likely needing to replace my clutch soon so I'm tempted to try fitting 0B2105266L

The following codes are lurking in the background of my beloved 2.0L diesel A4.: P200200 PARTICULATE TRAP BELOW THRESHOLD P204B00 REDUCTANT PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE P204F0ON REDUCTANT SYSTEM PERFORMANCE BANK1 The car currently drives well, although I'll begin to feel the pinch if the cost of AdBlue increases. Could someone give me an idea of what I might have to do to prevent catastrophe? Many thanks in advance.

Happy to say I got the car back on Friday and all appears well. new high pressure pump and a list of other parts as long as my arm, gave it a good run around over the weekend and all good.

Hi Nick, Nice car. No I lost the will to live and gave up. Got a different seat with the spindly leg at the front which I'm not convinced would be as good as a top tether. Fitted 2 genuine Audi isofix bars myself not cheap. The images above show a part number can't guarantee it. But I think you could only fit one top tether seat as the recess is only on RHS of the back of the seat. Seems to me that the Americans had a solution but was unable to find out. Good luck. Let us know. Steve

Looks great, very similar to my 2011 but mine not the Le Mans. currently at 165,000 miles. What did you sort the rear lights out with? the standard polishing kit? Also next time you have it plugged in any chance of sharing the exhaust temperatures - pre turbo especially - we my other thread!!🤔 All the best

Hi @uoapsdb i assume you didn't get any further with this? Trying to get top tether for my 2003 RS6 and contacted the local Audi dealer here in Auckland, New Zealand, and they couldn't see anything as accessories for this. But said come back if you have a part number.

Thank you, it’s already in the garage tomorrow for a faulty top shock mount, so I’ll get him to check it out Linda

Hi good shout, pictures always make the imagined part more realistic and potentially more attractive to people who are chasing the same problem. Steve.

Hi the only way you will get to the bottom of this is to have the car scanned for faults, its the only way to pin down what is going on. Steve.

Hi I hate to tell you this but transmission fluid does get very hot despite not being part of the combustion process, its called kinetic friction the base material is the same as engine oil but is heavily refined to a point where its thinner and has more of a propensity towards a hydraulic state then additives are employed to enhance the hydraulic properties as well as the rapid cooling properties of the fluid, after a suitable period or milage the additives break down and via the heat from the gear meshing and being pressurised through small detent valves the fluid looses its viscosity and also changes colour, it has nothing to do with abusers driving the car to hard, its all to do with ambient temperatures over a given time or milage, do you think that would be a selling point in a dealers, sorry sir you can't drive this 400hp flying machine fast for any length of time because you might wear the gearbox fluid out. Engine oil is a completely different product although it comes from the same base product its additives are designed in such a way to protect internal components and the additives involved allow it to do this at a much higher thermal grade whilst absorbing the moisture from the combustion process along with the carbon within that water, sorry but its a one way street, the engine wont burn sump oil unless your oil rings are knackered in which case it will kill your catalytic converter in record time as engine oil when exposed to super heat will crack and revert back to hard carbon unless its fully synthetic in which case it just coats the cat core in a slime that totally negates the function of the precious metals such as palladium which convert the harmful gases in the exhaust stream.

I was just coming off the motorway tonight and my engine light flashed a few times and then went off, the other day my oil light flashed on and then went off …. Oil is ok, does this sound like an electrical fault?