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The Woes continue


Kev555
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Wife was driving the car last night and message flashed on cluster " Gearbox low oil pressure" or similar (it was the wife driving so limited observance) also in conjunction with the handbrake and possibly ABS warning light and another orange triangle? As this all happened the car became stuck in third gear. She managed to manually shift the gears for a bit and it went back to normal. Unfortunately she switched it off when she got home and when I started it and took it for a run the car was faultless and no warning lights. I pulled these codes from it today. They all cleared again, I looked online but it could be anywhere from a relay or ABS sensor issue to possibly a loom/gearbox issue? any techs out there could point me in the general direction? I realise these are fairly generic codes but I did clear a previous rear wheel speed sensor issue when I first plugged the laptop in a few weeks ago which hasn't come back yet.     

Edited by Kev555
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Original battery Kevin? If so, my starting point would be to first eliminate the battery condition as influencing the problems. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

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Thanks Gareth I assume original battery. Battery in the boot? as I dont remember it in the engine bay? I did notice the other day when I had ignition sitting on for about 20 mins while on the laptop diagnosing the EGR issue the battery dropped below just below 12 volts. Would it be that simple a fix?

Edited by Kev555
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3 hours ago, Kev555 said:

Thanks Gareth I assume original battery. Battery in the boot? as I dont remember it in the engine bay? I did notice the other day when I had ignition sitting on for about 20 mins while on the laptop diagnosing the EGR issue the battery dropped below just below 12 volts. Would it be that simple a fix?

Hi Kev the battery if knackered will cause all sorts of problems and yes its in the boot, rule of thumb is never replace any part based on a U code and the other question is has the gearbox ever had a service, the problem with Delphi software is its a shade vague on descriptions of faults but intermittent looks very much like the battery, if you get a new one regardless of make it must match the original unit in every specification, physical size and cranking amps etc and it will need to be coded to the car or you will kill the new unit in record time.

Steve.

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Hello Kevin,

If it is indeed the original battery, then you can almost guarantee it will be on or near to, it’s last legs. 
If you do decide to change it, my advice would be to buy once and wisely - e.g. Varta/ Bosch with their 5 year guarantee grade. On-line suppliers include Tayna and Battety Megastore etc. - there are more, who usually offer beer value for money than who you will buy locally.  It’s likely the new battery will have to be coded to the car. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 
p.s.

Apologies- overlapped Steve’s reply, 

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Thanks Fellas, I will get a new battery tomorrow or Monday, I take it has to be coded with VCDS?

p.s. I think my Icarsoft pro has a BMS function on it.

Edited by Kev555
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4 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Kev the battery if knackered will cause all sorts of problems and yes its in the boot, rule of thumb is never replace any part based on a U code and the other question is has the gearbox ever had a service, the problem with Delphi software is its a shade vague on descriptions of faults but intermittent looks very much like the battery, if you get a new one regardless of make it must match the original unit in every specification, physical size and cranking amps etc and it will need to be coded to the car or you will kill the new unit in record time.

Steve.

I'm using the Wurth Wow software ATM Stevey as its the only software I have can interrogate the the Audi to pull any decent codes. Your right, the Delphi just doesn't pull the codes, not really compatible with VAG.  

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17 hours ago, Kev555 said:

I'm using the Wurth Wow software ATM Stevey as its the only software I have can interrogate the the Audi to pull any decent codes. Your right, the Delphi just doesn't pull the codes, not really compatible with VAG.  

Hi Kev try gabbing OBD Eleven  it pretty good even at entry level and is definitely VAG specific and has a fearsome amount of options regarding re adaption/ coding and has invasive interrogation on the pro version, have a read up on the internet before choosing which version there are guys on here using it with good reviews.

Last but not least when changing the battery have another spare battery connected to the jump points under the bonnet as this will provide power continuity when you disconnect the old unit and stop things like the window operation and central locking losing their adaptations, just remember to be very careful with the red lead on the battery as it will still be hot from the donor battery voltage, I found wrapping a marigold glove round it when disconnected normally stops it touching things it shouldn't.

Steve.

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Thanks for the tip Steve, didn't realise about loss of power upsetting things in the car. I cant get a battery to Monday, its an AGM couldn't find any places that stocks them open on a Saturday afternoon. Probably looking at £130+VAT. I will look into that OBD eleven thanks. 

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18 hours ago, Kev555 said:

Thanks for the tip Steve, didn't realise about loss of power upsetting things in the car. I cant get a battery to Monday, its an AGM couldn't find any places that stocks them open on a Saturday afternoon. Probably looking at £130+VAT. I will look into that OBD eleven thanks. 

Hi no problem but the thing I forgot was if your BMS function requires a code to reset it use the code off the original unit and just change one digit on the last three digits on the original code, that should fool it as if you use the original code alone the daft system thinks its the same battery as it all ready knows about and will overcharge the new unit, hopefully I car soft has the same system as Snap on and just tells it the battery is new and to get on with it. Shame about the lack of supply in your area as where I live in Essex on a Saturday if you even mention new battery the grappling hooks come out in legions to try and get your wallet.

Steve.

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Thanks steve for that info on the getting the car to recognise the new battery. Hopefully icarsoft or some of the other software does it, as I don't want any more diagnostic software if I can help it. I prob would have got a battery yesterday but my usual auto parts store closes at 1pm and I had things to do yesterday morning. I feel something funny about the box too thought it was slipping a bit in reverse this morning although no messages. I must get her up on the lift tomorrow and check the oil again. As you said a service would prob do the box no harm although the oil looked very fresh when I checked it a few weeks ago?

 

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1 hour ago, Kev555 said:

Thanks steve for that info on the getting the car to recognise the new battery. Hopefully icarsoft or some of the other software does it, as I don't want any more diagnostic software if I can help it. I prob would have got a battery yesterday but my usual auto parts store closes at 1pm and I had things to do yesterday morning. I feel something funny about the box too thought it was slipping a bit in reverse this morning although no messages. I must get her up on the lift tomorrow and check the oil again. As you said a service would prob do the box no harm although the oil looked very fresh when I checked it a few weeks ago?

 

Hi Kev its all about the filters in the box.

Steve.

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Gotcha Steve, transmission service next on the list then, hopefully thats all is wrong with it, feels a bit clunky this last week. 

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Noticed you said "filters" Steve? I looked online and it looks like theres two filters in this box? or two different types? Would expect the standard flat filter that goes on underneath the pan but the round long one looks different from the Norm? I'm not big into Auto transmissions and on a learning curve. Just recently done my Yankee Mustang so realise about diagnostic temp checks when getting the right oil level in transmission etc.  

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no need to code the battery to the car unless im very much mistaken

also Kevin the best bit of VAG software you can buy is ODIS with a cable, there's a few usually on adverts.ie and are worth their wait in gold. If your using VCDS for coding its easy but for the deeper dive into your car and codes ODIS is the only way to go Ive tried them all over the years

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On 2/20/2022 at 6:40 PM, Kev555 said:

Noticed you said "filters" Steve? I looked online and it looks like theres two filters in this box? or two different types? Would expect the standard flat filter that goes on underneath the pan but the round long one looks different from the Norm? I'm not big into Auto transmissions and on a learning curve. Just recently done my Yankee Mustang so realise about diagnostic temp checks when getting the right oil level in transmission etc.  

Hi if thats the correct filter kit for your car then yes it has two filters, just take your time and photograph the filters before removing them just so you have a point of reference when reassembling.

Steve.

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17 hours ago, evopilot said:

no need to code the battery to the car unless im very much mistaken

also Kevin the best bit of VAG software you can buy is ODIS with a cable, there's a few usually on adverts.ie and are worth their wait in gold. If your using VCDS for coding its easy but for the deeper dive into your car and codes ODIS is the only way to go Ive tried them all over the years

Hi if you don't recode the battery after installing the new one you will kill the new unit in record time as the BEM still thinks its the old battery and carries on charging the new unit at the same rate as the failing unit, the BEM has no way of self rationalising the fact that the battery is new and has to be told it has a new unit and then it will modify the charge rate against the charge resistance from the new battery, plenty of explanatory blogs on the net, all this coding malarkey started back in the early noughties as they were developing multi CCM modules which don't like voltage spikes.

Steve.

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Hi Steve, I got the full oil and filters kit today, £156 all in, hopefully get it fitted at the weekend. I will still code the battery just to be on the safe side when  get it. I opted for the filter kit first as the battery hasn't put a foot wrong since. I will probably get round to it before the end of the month if it doesnt throw any more hiccups. Shy of forking out £300+ in one week LOL 

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18 minutes ago, Kev555 said:

Hi Steve, I got the full oil and filters kit today, £156 all in, hopefully get it fitted at the weekend. I will still code the battery just to be on the safe side when  get it. I opted for the filter kit first as the battery hasn't put a foot wrong since. I will probably get round to it before the end of the month if it doesnt throw any more hiccups. Shy of forking out £300+ in one week LOL 

Hi Kev I wish you all the best with the filter and oil change, and I don't blame you for your shyness in forking out all that money its different for me as my car is my business and shelling out stupid sums of money are a way of life, no car no money, your vehicle is private transport so its different, as I said take your time if you did the Yank you are more than capable.

Steve.

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Took the A6 in to do the gearbox service today and the intermittent gearbox error finally showed up on the dash for me instead of the wife. Funnily I could replicate it then by bumping the car over the lift plates. I was suspicious of water ingress or a broken wire the way the fault arose bumping in and out of the garage. So I took the gearbox plug off and it was corroded but pins are all in good shape luckily as its in the early stages. I still have a permanent fault code ATM on the car which may be related to the battery as its a U code and hopefully not linked to the transmission. Any info would be useful on that code. Whats the reason theres water in that plug as its not following the loom into the plug that I can see? I just hope the water hasn't blew the mechtronic unit  pictures posted below 

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2 hours ago, Kev555 said:

Gave connectors a clean up with electrical contact cleaner so looking better. 

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Hi Kev, good find and judging by the corrosion/water ingression that would have given problems sooner than later, think because the databus is a single wire its just had a problem with communication and won't have blown the mechatronic unit as that would be a different code, the reason for the water is probably after ten years the plug seal is a bit tired, you can usually help it out with a good coating of silicone grease, with the software you have it should clear the code but if it won't after the fix try driving it a few times if it was the plug it will cycle the fault out.

Steve.

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Thanks Steve I was actually looking up why this happened to the plug when you answered. So its nothing to do with transmission oil cooling valve thats documented online as causing this issue? Thanks for clarifying that code does relate to the transmission electric plug.

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12 minutes ago, Kev555 said:

Thanks Steve I was actually looking up why this happened to the plug when you answered. So its nothing to do with transmission oil cooling valve thats documented online as causing this issue? Thanks for clarifying that code does relate to the transmission electric plug.

Hi Kev, I wouldn't have thought so as any specific code would flag up that failure, the best bit of advice I ever had from the guy who taught me the basics of diagnostics on my first Ford Eighteen years ago was, you never replace anything on the basis of a U code as it is sort of generic and covers a communication issue between two or many parts, P codes are specific but still may lead to multiple parts as most systems are daisy chained and one sensors failure can lead to other sensors registering as failed, example, on the codes given for a MAP and MAF failure its normally the MAP

thats gone sideways as it lives in a hot grotty environment which is my point with diagnostic platforms the generic platform may throw codes for the two sensors but manufacturer specific software will tell you there is no correlation between the MAP/MAF which narrows it down and more digging will reveal which sensors not working on the live data.

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Yes Steve ive learnt that before at my peril LOL. I take a bit more time nowadays to find out if its exactly that part thats relative to the code. Good to know you think its not the coolant valve. I did smell the water in the plug today but no scents came from it to lead me to believe it was anything other than just water. 

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