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auxillary belt change advice


alpha omega
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Hi all, i have a Audi A4 avant estate 2.0 tdi i was told by europarts i have a cjc engine ?...receipts show timing was done 60,000 miles ago,but no receipt to say the auxillary/serpentine belt had been done.so i have decided to change the belt/idler/tensioner/alternator pulley.looking down at the belt it looks very tight in there.Any tips on what would be the best procedure to tackle this.also i cannot get a camera in between the fan and the belt to take pictures of which way the belt goes round thanks.ps last garage nearly killed my engine hence wanting to tackle this myself 🙂 20230124_123714.thumb.jpg.77c52f07f27a086b1abf34d9bac50ca4.jpg

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6 hours ago, alpha omega said:

Hi all, i have a audi a4 avant estate 2.0 tdi i was told by europarts i have a cjc engine ?...receipts show timing was done 60,000 miles ago,but no receipt to say the auxillary/serpentine belt had been done.so i have decided to change the belt/idler/tensioner/alternator pulley.looking down at the belt it looks very tight in there.Any tips on what would be the best procedure to tackle this.also i cannot get a camera in between the fan and the belt to take pictures of which way the belt goes round thanks.ps last garage nearly killed my engine hence wanting to tackle this myself 🙂 20230124_123714.thumb.jpg.77c52f07f27a086b1abf34d9bac50ca4.jpg

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Hi if you take the top plastic cover off above the radiator which from memory is two plastic plunge clips that should give you a better view of it all, mark where each pulley touches the belt with tippex and do a drawing of each pulley and the way the belt travels either behind or over that particular pulley, good kit Dayco and INA are used as o.e., I wouldn't get involved with changing the alternator freewheel clutch in situ as they can be an absolute cow when the alternator is out of the car and on a bench these clutches normally fail way after the alternator and as most replacement alternators have a new clutch fitted its probably a fruitless and consuming exercise, only other tip is make sure you have the belt running true when you pull the tension pin out to release the spring tensioner as you will need Neanderthal strength to pull it back again if you get it wrong and remember to turn the engine over by hand a few turns to settle the ribs on the belt into their grooves, I have seen the new belts try and ride off of the crank pulley.

Steve.

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hi steve,thank you for all the information and tips, thats just the kind of info i needed. i will give that a go in the next few days i love the neanderthal strength.i cannot work out how to change my profile name to my real name(steve) thats why i am called neanderthal lets hope thats not an omen 😁cheers for now steve

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Had a go today.finding it very difficult to do. theres no room to mark things up or take things off.any advice please ive seen someone take the bumper etc and move the framework forward just enough to get to the belt and pulleys seems a lot of work and doing this job on my own wont be easy.But willing to do whatever it takes to do the job.thanks all

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20 hours ago, alpha omega said:

blimey steve hope you dont have to do that for a while. will keep at it with some pics over the next few days as having to do other things too thanks

Hi never quite sure with these as 11 on they altered a lot of things to make it easier to get at them for the dealer mechanics, might be an idea to remove the fan pack as that would give you an extra few inches, some pictures would be excellent as I can see how it comes apart, I admire your persistence and am sure the problem can be solved without removing the front of the car.

Steve.

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All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics(33) i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.(pic 34 circled)i thought it was a straight pin OH NO I realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I  found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed  what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way removed connector pic 12 then used pincers to remove plastic holder and undo nut that holds the horn on pic 13.same on the other side. pic 14/15/16 remove crash bar.(2 long bolts either side) plus  6 large bolts(3 either side of bumper one slightly tight above a air con pipe.you will then need a lump hammer to knock the bar out.pic 17 barrier removed.remove pipes pic 18/19.pic 20 drain antifreeze(with cap off) lift clip up on end of pipe.push clip back down one drained and close drain plug.then remove antifreeze container away from bulkhead (2 nuts)to avoid stretching pipe.pic 21 remove 3 torx bolts that holds the bonnet catch in place.pic 22 is part of the bonnet catch be careful to undo. i left in place with a stretch once front end is moved forward.pic 23 leave these 2 torx bolts(one at either side until you find something ready to support the front end underneath once you've undo them and moved the front end forward.pic 24 if you have not removed the tensioner then you can do that now,as long as the nut that holds it in has been removed from the back of the alternator(pic26....pic 25 remove idle pulley with a torx t40?.pic 27 is showing the alternator clutch pulley 2 special tools are needed(see pic 1 showing tools)my tools were eBay item no 33383381371828.(M10 XZN) PLEASE NOTE there are 2 different type from this seller you may need item no332579926956 instead...you will need to check the centre of the clutch pulley to see if it is a six or in my case a 12 torx...   pic 28 check belt is same size.pic 29 showing how belt goes.pic 30 showing the shape of the pin in the tensioner pulley again do not remove the pin until belt in its proper place.i thought the pin was straight.no mention of it been that shape on youtube.pic 31 just a spare pic of what this area looks like...... pic 32(circled does not seem right to me on timing. will it be ok.everything is reversal of removal.a bit fiddly putting the bumper front back to line it all up.just be careful when inserting the top right and left corners back.put them in place once the framework is flush with the headlights etc.thanks again all hope it helps.i am only an amateur and expect crititism so i am thick skinned lol😁 total cost for parts £189 euro car parts including pink antifreeze(not shown).

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31 minutes ago, alpha omega said:

All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.i thought it was a straight pin OH NO(see pic)i realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I  found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed  what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way

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Hi well done and a brilliant photographic documentation of each step of the process, the kit used is definitely a bit of me and I think you are in danger of becoming a seriously good DIY motor mechanic plus there is the satisfaction of knowing its done right!, the alternator clutch has a grip like my missus on my credit card so you have no chance of removal, if you had to do the job again you could do it in half the time as you say its a learning curve.

Steve.

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26 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi well done and a brilliant photographic documentation of each step of the process, the kit used is definitely a bit of me and I think you are in danger of becoming a seriously good DIY motor mechanic plus there is the satisfaction of knowing its done right!, the alternator clutch has a grip like my missus on my credit card so you have no chance of removal, if you had to do the job again you could do it in half the time as you say its a learning curve.

Steve.

lol i know that feeling too with the credit card its convincing them that these things have to be done if they want you to be  their taxi service.yes i would definately be able to do it quicker. 6 years time is a nice feeling though.what do you or anyone think about pic 32 timing.i thought the arrow had to be in the middle or am i been a neanderthal.thanks steve and others for been so helpful on this forum

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5 minutes ago, alpha omega said:

lol i know that feeling too with the credit card its convincing them that these things have to be done if they want you to be  their taxi service.yes i would definately be able to do it quicker. 6 years time is a nice feeling though.what do you or anyone think about pic 32 timing.i thought the arrow had to be in the middle or am i been a neanderthal.thanks steve and others for been so helpful on this forum

Hi thats the timing belt tensioner, don't know when you last had it done but with those things they are best left alone as when it was done the pulleys would have been pinned out and the tensioner set to the diagram supplied with the kit.

Steve.

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1 hour ago, alpha omega said:

All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.i thought it was a straight pin OH NO(see pic)i realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I  found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed  what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way removed connector pic 12 then used pincers to remove plastic holder and undo nut that holds the horn on pic 13.same on the other side. pic 14/15/16 remove crash bar.(2 long bolts either side) plus  6 large bolts(3 either side of bumper one slightly tight above a air con pipe.you will then need a lump hammer to knock the bar out.pic 17 barrier removed.remove pipes pic 18/19.pic 20 drain antifreeze(with cap off) lift clip up on end of pipe.push clip back down one drained and close drain plug.then remove antifreeze container away from bulkhead (2 nuts)to avoid stretching pipe.pic 21 remove 3 torx bolts that holds the bonnet catch in place.pic 22 is part of the bonnet catch be careful to undo. i left in place with a stretch once front end is moved forward.pic 23 leave these 2 torx bolts(one at either side until you find something ready to support the front end underneath once you've undo them and moved the front end forward.pic 24 if you have not removed the tensioner then you can do that now,as long as the nut that holds it in has been removed from the back of the alternator(pic26....pic 25 remove idle pulley with a torx t40?.pic 27 shows the clutch alternator pulley with a 12 point star piece see pic 1 with the 2 special tools needed to remove it from the alternator(please note some have only 6 star point and the black round piece with a nut holder on it has 33 strpes inserts to lock it into the pulley(does not fit fully in only part.pic 28 check belt is same size.pic 29 showing how belt goes.pic 30 showing the shape of the pin in the tensioner pulley again do not remove the pin until belt in its proper place.i thought the pin was straight.no mention of it been that shape on youtube.pic 31 just a spare pic of what this area looks like...... pic 32(circled does not seem right to me on timing. will it be ok.everything is reversal of removal.a bit fiddly putting the bumper front back to line it all up.just be careful when inserting the top right corners and left corners back.put them in place once the framework is flush with the headlights etc.thanks again all hope it helps.i am only an amateur and expect crititism so i am thick skinned lol😁 total cost for parts £189 euro car parts

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This is brilliant thanks for sharing this 😊

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10 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi thats the timing belt tensioner, don't know when you last had it done but with those things they are best left alone as when it was done the pulleys would have been pinned out and the tensioner set to the diagram supplied with the kit.

Steve.

thanks for the prompt reply steve thats a relief then.i had it in my mind that the arrow should be in the middle.i watch too many youtube videos making me paranoid. the timing according to the bills was 60,000 miles ago.oh no i'me not going there. a garage job.thanks steve

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39 minutes ago, alpha omega said:

thanks for the prompt reply steve thats a relief then.i had it in my mind that the arrow should be in the middle.i watch too many youtube videos making me paranoid. the timing according to the bills was 60,000 miles ago.oh no i'me not going there. a garage job.thanks steve

Hi I would get it changed at about 80k the rule being 80k or five years, I would not be taking any notice of the quoted change intervals as they are based on average milage over time I always change mine at 80k and never had a problem the belt you have just replaced should be 30k or three years as if that one goes it climbs in the cam belt housing and causes the timing belt to jump and spins the cam lobes on the shafts and strips the rear timing gears, new cams, followers, timing gears not cheap.

Steve.

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i fully understand what your saying steve.its always good to know as i need reliability and the Audi has been a good car it starts and stops in all weathers and its only £30 tax for the year and my insurance is good too.😁thanks regards steve

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1 hour ago, coupe4 said:

well done,thats a great detailed explanation on doing the job,i dont think id be brave enough to take it on tho.greg

Thanks gregg.Its thanks to people on forums like this one and youtube.Anything to save on garage bills too lol.having said that as in my reply to stevey Y above i wont touch the timing belt etc too risky😉😁

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