Hi, car is a 2015 A6 C7 manual.

Driving normally, in a traffic queue.

Went to change gear - but at first clutch pedal would not depress.

Tried again it did depress - but stayed flat on the floor.

Using my toe, I managed to pull the clutch pedal back up - and it stayed up ( didn't drop to floor ) and then worked fine!

Any suggestions on what problem is.

 

2nd part of the query is about Consumer options:

The car was bought from an independent dealer less than 30 days ago, ( less than 500 miles driven ) and ( as a separate aspect ) it came with a warranty ( so not 'sold as seen, or as spares repair etc. ).

I'm presuming the warranty is a side issue - and the main thing is the car has failed within 30days of purchase- so can it be claimed not fit for purpose?

Any suggestions on how to approach the independent car dealer

Do I have to give them the chance to fix it, or can I 'refuse' the car and return it, and for a full refund?

 

 

Hello Tim,

Sorry to hear of your issue.
The problem sounds typical of a failed clutch slave cylinder assembly, but would obviously have to be examined to confirm/refute. 
Re. 30 days return:- I believe ( but not certain) that you are obliged to allow them the opportunity to repair the car at their cost, rather than simply rejecting it. 
I think your best route is via. E-mailing the seller to alert them of the issue, and visit your nearest CAB and take advice there.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards, Gareth. 

Hi Magnet - thanks for reply.  All the legal info. I've found suggests a buyer  can reject the car if there is a reasonable fault, and I'm not obliged to give them a chance to fix it.  ( That changes once I'm more than 30 days past the purchase date ).

The Car Dealer was good, and came back straight away.  He suggested either I can get a local garage to quote to repair the problem, and Dealer will send that quote to his warranty Co......which sounds bit open-ended. ( seems to hinge on the Warranty Co. accepting the claim, rather than the dealer agreeing to do repairs to avoid my  30day right to reject. )

Or, I can take the car back to the Car dealer ( annoyingly about a 1hr drive + having to get train home...plus how long will they take to fix etc. ) for him to fix.

The problem is intermittent - I pulled the clutch pedal back up, and it stayed up and had pressure. 

I called AA,  man came out - but just said  if the car is working fine there were no tests he could do.  I just have to wait until it goes again( !!! )  - but, if I call AA again, the 1st thig they would is try pulling the pedal up, and if it stays up - then that is all they'd do.

 

Can anyone advise if there are any actual tests the garage can do ( pressure test for a clutch fluid leak? _  - to demonstrate a fault clutch system is losing fluid?

3 hours ago, Bobbins said:

Hi Magnet - thanks for reply.  All the legal info. I've found suggests a buyer  can reject the car if there is a reasonable fault, and I'm not obliged to give them a chance to fix it.  ( That changes once I'm more than 30 days past the purchase date ).

The Car Dealer was good, and came back straight away.  He suggested either I can get a local garage to quote to repair the problem, and Dealer will send that quote to his warranty Co......which sounds bit open-ended. ( seems to hinge on the Warranty Co. accepting the claim, rather than the dealer agreeing to do repairs to avoid my  30day right to reject. )

Or, I can take the car back to the Car dealer ( annoyingly about a 1hr drive + having to get train home...plus how long will they take to fix etc. ) for him to fix.

The problem is intermittent - I pulled the clutch pedal back up, and it stayed up and had pressure. 

I called AA,  man came out - but just said  if the car is working fine there were no tests he could do.  I just have to wait until it goes again( !!! )  - but, if I call AA again, the 1st thig they would is try pulling the pedal up, and if it stays up - then that is all they'd do.

 

Can anyone advise if there are any actual tests the garage can do ( pressure test for a clutch fluid leak? _  - to demonstrate a fault clutch system is losing fluid?

Hi there is no way of testing the master cylinder but from the description of your problem I would say 100% that is your problem, the cylinder seals are allowing air in to the system, but in saying that I have come across the situation on higher milage vehicles where the clutch master has failed so the cylinder was replaced then the fault reappeared a couple of weeks later, it turns out the slave cylinder is doing the same thing, so ended up replacing both, this is not unusual on Audis because of their obsession with using plastic rubbish in major wear items.

Steve.

Thanks for all the feedback, really helpful.🙂

If the clutch pedal has been pulled back up - and is currently staying up - are there ways the repairing garage will be able to make a certain diagnosis ( e.g. between master or slave cylinder )? (( rather than simplistically just saying replace 'everything - master / slave / seals / flush & refill fluid ))

Asking as I am getting close to the end of the 30days from purchase.

((  I'm taking it there is much much more incentive for the selling garage to get a fix done now, rather than having the car 'rejected' and returned  )).

But if I go past the 30 days - then the situation changes, and I'm into the 1st 6 months period - should I expect it will probably be much more challenging trying to demonstrate the fault was there at time of purchase etc. / getting the seller to agree to more repair work.  agreed - and even more so if it is related to the clutch ( as a wear and tear item ).

 

Is there any way to try and safe guard against  Stevey Y's example above - e.g.   if they replace master cylinder now (within the 30 days); and it seems fine initially - but then it turns out the Slave is faulty say 2 weeks later 😞( after 30 days has expired )?

Do we get it agreed in writing that the work now is an anticipated fix, but if the fault returns within X days then it's still the same issue - and still treated as within 30 days

or is that like trying to fid rocking horse poo?😉

 

5 hours ago, Bobbins said:

Thanks for all the feedback, really helpful.🙂

If the clutch pedal has been pulled back up - and is currently staying up - are there ways the repairing garage will be able to make a certain diagnosis ( e.g. between master or slave cylinder )? (( rather than simplistically just saying replace 'everything - master / slave / seals / flush & refill fluid ))

Asking as I am getting close to the end of the 30days from purchase.

((  I'm taking it there is much much more incentive for the selling garage to get a fix done now, rather than having the car 'rejected' and returned  )).

But if I go past the 30 days - then the situation changes, and I'm into the 1st 6 months period - should I expect it will probably be much more challenging trying to demonstrate the fault was there at time of purchase etc. / getting the seller to agree to more repair work.  agreed - and even more so if it is related to the clutch ( as a wear and tear item ).

 

Is there any way to try and safe guard against  Stevey Y's example above - e.g.   if they replace master cylinder now (within the 30 days); and it seems fine initially - but then it turns out the Slave is faulty say 2 weeks later 😞( after 30 days has expired )?

Do we get it agreed in writing that the work now is an anticipated fix, but if the fault returns within X days then it's still the same issue - and still treated as within 30 days

or is that like trying to fid rocking horse poo?😉

 

Hi I had four master cylinders over the 270 k I covered in the car so I am fully aware of what you describe, if they replace the cylinder and the fault recurs technically under the law of consumer rights they have not repaired it if the replacement was within the thirty days, I dont know what the milage is on your car but the slave failure on C7 models is rare but not unknown, I would stipulate that the system be flushed and refilled with Comma ESP4 as I found through experience that cheap Dot4 causes premature wear on the seals, from memory there was a thread on here where a guy had replaced his clutch assembly and had the same problem so I suggested he used Comma and it cured the problem, it turns out the Audi brake fluid had been upgraded to accommodate the new type of seals they are using and ESP4 is as near as you will get to genuine fluid without bankruptcy, the problem is the cylinder seals when at rest allow air in so at the beginning the pedal stays up a while when used as it sort of self bleeds in to the brake master cylinder, this will only persist for a while until the volume of air exceeds its capacity to self bleed, think about it, air bubbles rise in any viscous fluid.

Steve.

Steve - thanks very much indeed - really helpful to know about the consumer same fault / 30 days. Will def. ask for Comma ESP4.

Car is on 120k, pretty much a full main dealer history.

Car is going to a local garage ( I've found & seller agreed ) for diagnosis this Monday - so hopefully the master cylinder together, with a flush and new fluid will be straightforward to agree with the selling garage.  Thinking that will be more acceptible to them than replacing a slave cylinder? ( Presume if it turns about to the be the slave - then sensible for me to pay to get clutch replaced at same time ).

I couldn't see any leaks on the exterior of the master cylinder looking from the footwell.

How 'enthusiastic' is the Audi price for their brake fluid? ( guess might ba bad as main dealer just quoted approx. £270 for a brake fluid service )

Any thoughts / advice on what happens if the diagnosing garage can't find / see a clutch pedal fault - and the pedal is functions normally for them?  Presume I'll just have to drive it until the pedal fails again?  Then not pull it up, and just wait and call the AA to confirm the pedal is flat on the floor again?  Don't relish that as a plan of driving a timebomb in a city!  Lots of places it would be very unpopular to break down!

Edited November 7, 2025Nov 7 by Bobbins

On 11/7/2025 at 6:05 PM, Bobbins said:

Steve - thanks very much indeed - really helpful to know about the consumer same fault / 30 days. Will def. ask for Comma ESP4.

Car is on 120k, pretty much a full main dealer history.

Car is going to a local garage ( I've found & seller agreed ) for diagnosis this Monday - so hopefully the master cylinder together, with a flush and new fluid will be straightforward to agree with the selling garage.  Thinking that will be more acceptible to them than replacing a slave cylinder? ( Presume if it turns about to the be the slave - then sensible for me to pay to get clutch replaced at same time ).

I couldn't see any leaks on the exterior of the master cylinder looking from the footwell.

How 'enthusiastic' is the Audi price for their brake fluid? ( guess might ba bad as main dealer just quoted approx. £270 for a brake fluid service )

Any thoughts / advice on what happens if the diagnosing garage can't find / see a clutch pedal fault - and the pedal is functions normally for them?  Presume I'll just have to drive it until the pedal fails again?  Then not pull it up, and just wait and call the AA to confirm the pedal is flat on the floor again?  Don't relish that as a plan of driving a timebomb in a city!  Lots of places it would be very unpopular to break down!

Hi you wont see any leaks until its gone completely and then only a light misting as the chamber is double sealed, I personally would go for a new cylinder and fluid, any history of a clutch change?.

Steve.

Stevey  - thanks very much. So master cylinder and the flush/fresh fluid.

Nothing in the history I have for a new clutch. Car has been to main dealer for 9 out of 10 general services.  Previous owners have done cambelt a. 10k ago, and Ad blue pump at independents.

My concern is that as I'm expecting the seller garage to cover the costs in full ( does that sound like what should be happening? ) - I was expecting them to be reluctant.  I'd presumed as a worst case they'd just say no to any works, until the pedal drops again, or, to only authorise the fluid flush and refill only ( or worse just a bleed ) as a first step. On the other hand, I'd presume the worst case for the dealer is if the car is rejected and returned to them for a full refund, but with now another owner recorded on the V5.

Presume if a hire-car was involved that might be an incentive to make sure the repairs are thorough and quick - rather than !Removed!-ing around nibbling away at it to try to expense?

Edited November 9, 2025Nov 9 by Bobbins

36 minutes ago, Bobbins said:

Stevey  - thanks very much. So master cylinder and the flush/fresh fluid.

Nothing in the history I have for a new clutch. Car has been to main dealer for 9 out of 10 general services.  Previous owners have done cambelt a. 10k ago, and Ad blue pump at independents.

My concern is that as I'm expecting the seller garage to cover the costs in full ( does that sound like what should be happening? ) - I was expecting them to be reluctant.  I'd presumed as a worst case they'd just say no to any works, until the pedal drops again, or, to only authorise the fluid flush and refill only ( or worse just a bleed ) as a first step. On the other hand, I'd presume the worst case for the dealer is if the car is rejected and returned to them for a full refund, but with now another owner recorded on the V5.

Presume if a hire-car was involved that might be an incentive to make sure the repairs are thorough and quick - rather than !Removed!-ing around nibbling away at it to try to expense?

Hi you should not have to pay a brass rupee towards the repair, but in saying that if its never had a new clutch I would be expecting that one some time soon, thats a fairly expensive job as the parts are not cheap, the cylinder change is about I-2 hours.

Steve

Steve - thanks.

Presume I can insist the repairers use OE master cylinder + Audi Brake fluid ( or failing that I'll look for the Comma ESP4 you'd suggested.

Fingers crossed diagnosis and getting repair agreed doesn't prove to be too much grief!

1 hour ago, Bobbins said:

Presume I can insist the repairers use OE master cylinder + Audi Brake fluid

Being an eternal cynic I suspect any repair under guarantee would be done as cheaply as possible. I'd be glad to be proven wrong.

Hello again Tim,

I think it’s worth sitting back and giving this a couple of coats of thinking about.

Of course you can request ( and even insist) that only genuine VAG supplied M/S is fitted, but in reality that isn’t going to happen, and you won’t know whether they have or not - even if they say they have. The remit will be to renew, and ensure it keeps working through any guarantee period.

Good luck whatever you decide.

Regards,

Gareth. 

Gareth - thanks - I was basing the request for Audi/OE parts to maybe stand a chance as we're i the 1st 30 days - so selling garage bit more likely to be helpful.  I'd hope if the Audi part is agreed it would get fitted - as it's an Indie near me that is quoting for the repair - not the selling Garage.

Bit of progress (?): Got a quote  - Seems modest at £250 to replace the slave ( parts, labour, &  vat all included ).

The assessing repair garage proposed replacing the slave cylinder as what should be done first ( + flush ).  But appreciate Steve you had made it clear you felt the master cylinder was most likely the cause.  ( Assessing garage said master cylinder much more awkward to replace  / less likely cause )

Any advice on how to move this forward - is it worthwhile getting noted in writing somewhere that replacing the 'slave' is proposed as the probable solution ( but  if the fault re-appears within X days( ?) then the next item to replace would be the master cylinder / further repair work can still be claimed?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Thanks again Tim, 

I feel it’s right that Stevey Y’s opinion is taken seriously, since his experience is based on covering very high mileages, and therefore suffering more component failure than probably anyone else on here. 
Having said that, when you boil it down, yours is not to attempt to diagnose where the actual issue lies - if indeed the problem is associated with just one component in the clutch assembly. Yours is to entrust the repair to those who are going to do it, and you will have to go with their diagnosis - as I see it. 
 

Steve will confirm or refute this, but I wonder if the slave cylinder on your model is the now common concentric cylinder ( blinking plastic cup/ washing up bowl technology inside the bell housing-?) If it is, then £250 sounds daftly cheap, which leads me to believe it must be external to the gearbox bell housing. 
If it were mine, I would be stepping back a bit and be ‘leaving the medical diagnosis to the GP’, and just sitting back and hope it all works out - or attempt to reject the car now.

Regards,

Gareth. 

Leaving aside curiosity, does it really matter what the fault or its cure is? If we spend more time discussing it the 30 day limit will expire.

Gareth - hi - yes, repairer has said on my A6 ( C7 2.0 manual ) the Slave cylinder is external, hence the £250 quote.

I'm trying to leave things to the experts to diagnose.  My dilemma  is the other advice out there, in particular the advice / personal experience of SteveyY and master cylinders......🤔

I've tried to get it agreed that while the repairing garage have quoted to replace only the Slave cylinder, they are doing that as they think that is the most likely solution. But, it's being done on the basis they are not guaranteeing that a new Slave Cyl. is a certain solution, and so further work ( i.e. master cylinder ) may be necessary. 

Appreciate that should always be buyer's right anyway (  if the 1st fix hasn't worked ) , but, seemed worthwhile getting it down on paper - don't suppose it will hurt🤔, and might make it bit harder for seller / warranty to try and wriggle if further work is actually needed.

 

Cliff - hi - yes mindful of time passing. The 'repair train' ( - aka the diagnosis & repair process ) - is already moving along - just a bit slowly.

1. Quote has already been submitted to the selling garage for agreement;
2. Selling garage had acknowledged, & said they'd consult warranty firm and revert this morning;
3. No reply this a.m.,  so I 'nudged' seller, saying I'd expected seller to cover costs himself ( rather than looking to get a warranty firm to pay ) so as not to hold things up ( and separate matter  if he wants to seek getting the money back from the warranty firm -  that shouldn't affect me/getting car fixed );
4. Seller agreed😀, and has sent funds to me  - so I can pay repairing garage once slave fitted;
5. Repair garage given go-ahead to proceed 🙂, and! they'd had a booking cancelled, so they might get to my car tomorrow 🙂🙂

so 'good day' today!

 

 

Edited November 12, 2025Nov 12 by Bobbins

Now not so good😞:

1. Repair Garage had a mix up, and their supplier had told them slave was external, hence low replacement quote. However, Slave is internal to gearbox. ( SteveyY😊 - whatever the emoji is that 'you were spot on' )
2. So their repair Quote became £2,400 ish ( included some 'betterment in a flywheel and clutch )
3. Seller no to local repairs, said return car to him and he'd fix, or give full refund (( less mileage deduction -  tad peeked at the proposed mileage deduction  - given grief all this has caused😡 )
4. (( Don't know what mileage rate he is proposing to deduct, and equally I need to list my expenses / mileage to get quotes etc. etc.)) 
5. Just in case, and to have a 2nd opinion in writing - I got 2nd opinion from Mr Clutch ( good reviews for local franchise ) as my preference to get it fixed locally.
6. MrC stated that it is master cyl is losing pressure, and is the fault ( SteveyY😊, 2nd credit to you )
7. But, in addition they noted the flywheel was vibrating, and so should be replaced, & was possible cause of the Master cly loosing pressure.
8. Written quotes to selling garage. ( Flywheel + clutch + slave,  and also the master cyl = £2,100 ( all in ) (( so bit cheaper than the orignal repair quote, even factoring in flywheel and the Master  ))
9. I also made a goodwill offer of £350 towards the repairs ( on basis I get a bit of betterment out of it - though my understanding is you must replace clutch etc. when you replace flywheel - so the clutch was always going to have to be replaced if flywheel being done = so clutch should not technically be regarded as 'betterment'.
10. Selling garage don't want to spend that much, so can is being returned for refund.

 

Quite like the car, and had been considering increasing my goodwill offer to contribute bit more to see if that meant Dealer would pay for repairs - as car has full Audi history, great bodywork and interior, very recent cambelt and adblue pump, and numerous bushes, and pads/discs.

But .....EML also came on😞, with P200200 code ( hence my post in the Technical Forum )  - so to consider taking the car back would mean: clutch, dm flywheel etc. + master + a DPF clean + possibly sensors + unknowns ?) so stretching the comfort boundary!

( also now have a sticking wing mirror ( elec fold in version )  that will not automatically unfold when you turn on ignition - I can get it to unfold using the fold in / unfold button - but it's seems another sign of gremlins?😧

 

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2025Nov 17 by Bobbins

Thanks Tim,

As I said earlier, I think this issue is likely to be attributed to a (now known to be ) concentric slave cylinder. 
The seller could argue that if it is that which is at fault, then they only  pay for replacing that component - gearbox out job. Betterment could then be considered to be replacing the flywheel, clutch plate and cover, the cost of which could (reasonably?) be down to you, and the cost to the seller being the slave cylinder and the labour to remove and refit the gearbox.

Your betterment cost could then be the cost of flywheel, plate and cover, plus say 1.5 hrs to fit these parts. 
Anyway, all rather academic, since the car is going back. 
Regards,

Gareth. 

4 hours ago, Bobbins said:

Now not so good😞:

1. Repair Garage had a mix up, and their supplier had told them slave was external, hence low replacement quote. However, Slave is internal to gearbox. ( SteveyY😊 - whatever the emoji is that 'you were spot on' )
2. So their repair Quote became £2,400 ish ( included some 'betterment in a flywheel and clutch )
3. Seller no to local repairs, said return car to him and he'd fix, or give full refund (( less mileage deduction -  tad peeked at the proposed mileage deduction  - given grief all this has caused😡 )
4. (( Don't know what mileage rate he is proposing to deduct, and equally I need to list my expenses / mileage to get quotes etc. etc.)) 
5. Just in case, and to have a 2nd opinion in writing - I got 2nd opinion from Mr Clutch ( good reviews for local franchise ) as my preference to get it fixed locally.
6. MrC stated that it is master cyl is losing pressure, and is the fault ( SteveyY😊, 2nd credit to you )
7. But, in addition they noted the flywheel was vibrating, and so should be replaced, & was possible cause of the Master cly loosing pressure.
8. Written quotes to selling garage. ( Flywheel + clutch + slave,  and also the master cyl = £2,100 ( all in ) (( so bit cheaper than the orignal repair quote, even factoring in flywheel and the Master  ))
9. I also made a goodwill offer of £350 towards the repairs ( on basis I get a bit of betterment out of it - though my understanding is you must replace clutch etc. when you replace flywheel - so the clutch was always going to have to be replaced if flywheel being done = so clutch should not technically be regarded as 'betterment'.
10. Selling garage don't want to spend that much, so can is being returned for refund.

 

Quite like the car, and had been considering increasing my goodwill offer to contribute bit more to see if that meant Dealer would pay for repairs - as car has full Audi history, great bodywork and interior, very recent cambelt and adblue pump, and numerous bushes, and pads/discs.

But .....EML also came on😞, with P200200 code ( hence my post in the Technical Forum )  - so to consider taking the car back would mean: clutch, dm flywheel etc. + master + a DPF clean + possibly sensors + unknowns ?) so stretching the comfort boundary!

( also now have a sticking wing mirror ( elec fold in version )  that will not automatically unfold when you turn on ignition - I can get it to unfold using the fold in / unfold button - but it's seems another sign of gremlins?😧

 

 

 

 

Hi much as hate to wave my own flag, I only found out about these problems through ownership and accelerated milage using it as a taxi, that knowledge cost me dear financially and time wise, before I bought the car I did very extensive research on Ultra technology and it seemed pretty good but because it was in its infancy a lot of the subsequent problems I had as the milage rapidly increased were virtually unknown as most privately owned cars were no where near what I was achieving in milage so therefore had not occurred  yet, my mechanic deserves a Victoria cross for having my gearbox out Four times for various faults, clutch, driveshaft oil seals, rear crank seal, [that was fun], rear engine mount, main engine mounts, he has always allowed me to view the repair and lend spare hands when required for which I am eternally grateful as is gave me a dose of the pain involved in fixing it, especially the low pressure EGR cooler which is what the P2002 is about, there is nothing wrong with the DPF itself its the cooler that exists inside the DPF with its own little valve body, this particular monstrosity sucks already burnt gas and adblue particles back in to the engine to be burnt again thus radically reducing Nox 1 which is running high when the engine first starts, problem the exhaust gas is much cooler the water droplets are larger so it forms a white sludge that blocks and rots the cooler tubes, a real night mare to change the cooler and valve and not much of a bargain at the time from Audi at £750 for the part, in my opinion the C5/C6 were better engineered and designed therefore returning this particular model will be a godsend, dont buy another one?.

Steve.

Hi Steve, thanks again - really helpful.  It sounds like you've got the ideal arrangement with your indie who'll let you watch/help - worth its weight in gold!

maybe jump this to my post in the Technical forum?

- so do you feel, even with owners being 'mindful' of what to do to try and protect against ( or at least reduce chance of ) DPF etc. problems, and also being prepared to chuck some money at DPF cleaning every year - it is still just best to steer away from a 2.0 ultra altogether?  Reasonably involved cleaning I am happy to handle, but disassembling replacing EGR cooler etc. will be beyond my limited skills!

22 hours ago, Bobbins said:

Hi Steve, thanks again - really helpful.  It sounds like you've got the ideal arrangement with your indie who'll let you watch/help - worth its weight in gold!

maybe jump this to my post in the Technical forum?

- so do you feel, even with owners being 'mindful' of what to do to try and protect against ( or at least reduce chance of ) DPF etc. problems, and also being prepared to chuck some money at DPF cleaning every year - it is still just best to steer away from a 2.0 ultra altogether?  Reasonably involved cleaning I am happy to handle, but disassembling replacing EGR cooler etc. will be beyond my limited skills!

Hi it was a nightmare removing the cooler the first time a bit like a Heath Robinson jigsaw, two days to get out and a day to get back in with no undue swearing, by time three we had worked out the only real way to do the job with less time was to remove the whole front of the car and disconnect the exhaust and pull the Cat/DPF out of the front so you can get at it, thats what I did first time, cleaned the cooler and got a new valve assembly, guess what that don't work within 30k I had adblue crystals around the exhaust tail pipes where the cooler had corroded and the cooling tubes had collapsed, back to square one, new cooler and managed to salvage the valve, then 60k later replace the lot, YES I would advise steering clear especially as your vehicle has had most of its useful life milage wise why do you think there are so many appearing at what you would consider a bargain price, brain says luxury car dont worry about the milage, Audis are good for milage right, possibly a lot of the others Q3/A3 but not this specimen anything with an ULTRA badge will have the same problem.

Steve.

Car gone back Tim? 

Can see you have returned to the forum since the last post - so any answer to the question, so that we can close the thread - or not? 

Hello Tim,

Can see you returned to the forum yesterday, so any good reason why you can’t update us on the current situation?