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New user / problems with A6 Avant

Featured Replies

Hi guys, I’ve owned a 61 plate A6 Avant 3.0 TDI for about 18 months now, and it seems to be going pretty well overall. It has a stage 1 map, which makes great power. It is fun to drive for such a big car but the past 6-8 months or so I’ve been having problems with the car not wanting to start intermittently with loads of errors following that seem completely unrelated like gearbox malfunction followed by tpms error then it will just start and be absolutely fine for a few months then it will do it again and now have a constant shaking and slightly choppy feeling when the cars idling under 1100rpm but if I rev it past 1100rpm it smooths out. not sure if it’s misfiring or engine mounts have gone? 
 

Any help would be greatly appreciated I have attached a copy of the VCDS with all the logged errors on. 

Log-VK61HVO DEC 25-WAUZZZ4G3CN052381-242658km-150780mi.txt

Check battery as mentioned, especially with central convenience module faults, steering module, seats, etc. Also noticed the mass airflow sensor fault. Always fit genuine Audi part.

Before you do anything, get a multimeter on battery, then 12.4v - 12.7v (not running).

Noticed in the VCDS log: ‘Voltage terminal 30: 11.180 V’

It’s not running I know, but that’s low. Even when it’s running, I’d expect over 14v, but it’s was under and that was back in the summer according to coolant fan issue.

I’d be included to clear all DTC faults and run again. As soon as any performance issues, scan car again.

If battery is goosed, fit AGM version, best you can buy. Pretty sure it needs coded on 2011 plate. You have VCDS, so piece of cake.

  • Author

Thanks, Steve Q and Spartacus. I'll get a new battery and let you know how I get on with the outcome. As for the maf sensor issue, I'm pretty sure it's because I unplugged it the other day to see if it improved the choppy engine, though if it were injectors, it would have smoothed out. Will look into coding the new battery and let you know thanks for the help guys and Happy New Year 🎉🎉

Ps stay tuned I’m about to replace all front control arm bushes with new ones in the coming weeks hopefully without to many problems. 

9 hours ago, JamesR88 said:Ps stay tuned I’m about to replace all front control arm bushes with new ones in the coming weeks hopefully without too many problems. 

You’re a glutton for punishment. Make sure this isn’t your daily driver. I’ve done a front end suspension refresh a couple of times, but just changed arms, not bushes and it always takes longer than you think. I invested in an air hammer for the top arms as usually the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle is seized with corrosion. Laser make a tool which is worth investing in. On lower arms, probably hydra bushes. Lemforder is OE or Meyle HD is good alternative, however suspect you might me going down Powerflex bush route.

  • Author

Hi Spartacus, I’ve been researching this for a couple of weeks now after a local Indy quoted me £800 just to replace the lower rear control arms with OE ones. The car is my daily but for commuting I have use of the company van so if it goes !Removed! up I can still get around. I’ve watched a load of videos and I’m pretty confident that I can do it i purchased a a bush press tool to help me get them out but as you said I’m a glutton for punishment I managed to get a complete set of MEYLE HD bushes for just over £78 I did contemplate going down the power flex route but I though the MEYLE HD would keep the handling on the OEM plus side? 

I took your advice and after a few beers last night I found a decent cost on a Varta AGM battery ordered it up even found a discount code online paid £156.74 delivered from Tayna.co.uk

I’m ready to spend a bit of money and time get this car back to her former glory I’ll be posting the progress on the forums to keep you guys updated. 

 


 

 

IMG_5864.jpeg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Right guys, I’m back had an absolute mare with the car it conked out on a roundabout on a dual carriageway 🤬forcing me to be towed by the police recovery at £120 loved that 😂

So I go to the recovery company’s compound armed with a jump pack and some easy start we get it going and back home and I discover I have a knackered injector and injector washers on cylinders 1-3. So I ordered up a new refurbished injector factory sealed from bosch with genuine seals and washers. While I’m fitting them when I yanked out cylinder 2 injector the washer fell down the gap between the injector bore landing someware in under the cam cover by now I’m absolutely fuming so I wait till morning and buy a borescope from Toolstation very reasonably priced at £37.

Right so get it back and shove it down into the cam cover through the injector hole after about 20mins we find the offending copper washer nestled next to one of the rocker arms in just about the worst possible place to fish it out but undeterred me and a mate spend 4 hours with a bit of copper wire from some old t/e I had lying around attempting to fish it out We give up as it’s chucking down by this point.
 

I eventually came round to the fact I’m going to have to remover the rocker cover to get it out so Monday comes round I’m online purchasing injector bolts and washers cam cover gaskets and all necessary one time use hardware some of which I had to purchase directly from Audi to get genuine was !Removed! expensive £105.00 for 3 washers and 7 new stretch bolts for the cam cover. Got there in the end got the little bugger out and refitted the cam cover with a new OEM gasket and hardware renewed all the washers and stretch bolts on the injectors cleared all fault codes took her for a test drive and she’s like new pulls like a freight train.

Then today I thought it would be a good idea to swap the oil out as I could smell fuel mixed in with it so I replaced all filters air fuel and oil installed the new battery no fault codes and she’s driving lovely.

Next job will be fitting the MEYLE HD bush kit on the front end but that probably won’t be for a few weeks now and I've got a !Removed! horrible cold after all that 😂

Sounds like you’ve had a mare with the car. Good job on the injectors. Leave the suspension until the spring. Trust me you don’t want to be arguing with multi-link suspension in the winter. Days are short, it’s cold and I can guarantee you will have seized bolts.

For the suspension, invest in PlusGas penetrating release. Always wire brush exposed threads before undoing, and a propane torch is handy too. If your budget stretches, invest in air hammer. Milwaukee 1/2” impact driver handy too.

1 hour ago, spartacus 68 said:

Always wire brush exposed threads before undoing, 

Good advice. So often I see folk spray penetrating fluid onto rusty threads and then expect the nut to magically grow enough to run over the rust.

  • Author

Thanks for the advice Spartacus I think I’ll leave it till it gets a bit warmer and longer days like you said before I decide to tackle the bush refresh.
Fortunately I am lucky enough to have a Milwaulkee 1/2 impact gun in the tool box. I’ll deffo look into the penetrating oil I do have some Rocket TT spray I haven’t used yet but people say it’s good for seized bolts and the like. 

 

Remember with suspension, final torque with vehicle weight on ground or you’ll stress bushes. I’m going to treat myself to Milwaukee impact driver for my birthday, cracking tool. Have air impact gun, but it didn’t have torque to undo front carrier brake bolts which were seized on.

Handy attachment is swivel socket.

  • Author

Yes I’ve been told that you should take a measurement from the top of the arch to the centre of the hub while it’s on the ground then you can jack it up to the same measurement then torque them down.
 

On a side note you should definitely treat yourself to the 1/2 Milwaulkee it’s priceless I also have the m12 ratchet also a fantastic bit of kit. 

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