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Disc warping

Featured Replies

So is it common for any sort of disc warp on the 2.0 Q5?

Picked this one and think it was sitting a while.

Well when braking from 70mph you can feel a chatter, because it doesn't feel like it's in the steering wheel I assume it's the rear discs. The rear ones actually look fresh but as with solid non vented im wondering have the warped. That's why I'm working is it common?

Don't know if I should stick another set of standard discs on or try and get ones with groves to help slightly with the heat. Not sure if there is narrow enough vented discs out there to suit.

Cheers

Hello Ciaran,

Disc wrapping can be an often-referred -to myth. Brake judder can result from a variety of causes, including mating surfaces of hub to disc not adequately cleaned of rust - if cleaned at all, sticking caliper pins etc.

If you believe the judder is being caused by the solid discs not being able to dissipate the heat build up during braking, and vented discs would eliminate that, then you are braking too violently and too late.

Regards,

Gareth.

Agree that brake warp is a bit of a myth too. First thing to do is strip down rear brakes, clean, including hubs, check caliper piston for corrosion, and rebuild My money is on sticky calipers, either piston or sliders. Ceramic brake grease on sliders and red grease under dust sleeve. Budweg do rebuild kits.

  • Author

Yeah I'm for painting the calipers so I will be fitting a refurb kit at the same time. I have had warped discs before but that was on faster cars/motorcycles, didn't know if the weight of these things caused any issues with heat build up.

3 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

Agree that brake warp is a bit of a myth too. First thing to do is strip down rear brakes, clean, including hubs, check caliper piston for corrosion, and rebuild My money is on sticky calipers, either piston or sliders. Ceramic brake grease on sliders and red grease under dust sleeve. Budweg do rebuild kits.

Hi brake disc warp is a fact I have done loads of them, I usually run a dial gauge on the disc, some of the worst running out about forty thou usually caused by sticky calliper slides or pad runner surfaces which cause the discs to run way above their heat range therefore when they cool they don't revert back to a uniform shape, another culprit for this anomaly is sitting at a junction with your foot on the brake as the brake pads act as a heat sink so absorb heat and help dissipate the heat so if they are being held against the disc they transfer heat back in to the disc this is termed as localised hot spots which will warp a vented disc.

Steve.

I know about not holding the foot on the brake after heavy stop Steve. A lot of terms such as disc warp and pad transfer megerge a on these sort of topics. That can be the eventual result, but the actual souce of the problem is the caliper itself. Siezed brake sliders, corrosion on dust sleeve stopping piston retracting, collapsed brake line, etc.

Disc choice is key too. Never had an issue with Zimmermann or Textar.

On 4/23/2026 at 1:37 PM, spartacus 68 said:

I know about not holding the foot on the brake after heavy stop Steve. A lot of terms such as disc warp and pad transfer megerge a on these sort of topics. That can be the eventual result, but the actual souce of the problem is the caliper itself. Siezed brake sliders, corrosion on dust sleeve stopping piston retracting, collapsed brake line, etc.

Disc choice is key too. Never had an issue with Zimmermann or Textar.

Hi you said you dont agree with the myth of discs warping, its not a myth if its happening, you cannot deny the laws of physics and metallurgy, discs expansion/contraction rates are worked out before they are made to accommodate the various states of tune for each vehicle, performance vehicles generally have a higher grade of carbon steel to cope with the extra thermal stress and I have found that these very rarely warp even when subjected to a binding calliper it usually cooks the brake pads to the point where they crumble instead, most of these problems are caused by old brake fluid that has a high water content which settles around the pistons and rots part of the piston chrome covering then causes primary seal failure.

Steve.

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