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Hi Mark, Going from the Reg nuber you DMed me, it looks like the pump is 028 130 115M There is a VW service kit 038 198 051D, which is suitable. He says a Bosch seal kit is available from Autodoc for just over £12. I hope this helps. Mike 🙂

Good morning all, the latest update I have at the moment is, the car went in again on the 30/12, the mechanic told me there is nothing wrong…!!!? Well, I thought I would now get a second opinion on this. I took the car to the same dealership, but at different location , they are now going to have the car for the day and investigate thoroughly on 9/1/25 , so I am hoping we can get to the bottom of this somehow.

Hi Gareth, thanks for your interest. The receipt says Minor service, oil and filter. it is indeed a diesel and I have no issue with the colour of the oil that’s to be expected on a diesel. The consistency though is that of a VAG group diesel not serviced for at least a year in my opinion based on my experience, the oil filter also backs that up in my opinion. this post was really just a point to say, if you do get a new used car, get it serviced straight away by a trusted garage, or if your capable do it yourself so you know it’s done right. Thanks, Dave

Thanks ever so much Steve!

Hi look up ECU testing on line, I think they have an outlet near you but I think you will have to get your old unit posted to them they then test it and repair it if its not to far gone, if it is they often have a refurbed unit available and they are not expensive. Steve.

We have very few ‘experts’ on here, and it’s certainly a major exaggeration to construe that ‘everyone (in caps) on here is an expert. Having said that, I think it’s been common knowledge for decades, that service-before-sale equates only to an oil and filter change - nothing revolutionary there. Advice has always been - treat it as if it had never taken place - and you won’t go far wrong. Anyway Dave, thank you once again for pointing this out. Kind regards, Gareth.

How strange. Thinking about it, the key icon could be suggesting an issue with the imobiliser, key signal receiver etc.

Dear Spartacus, thanks for submitting the photos: our car must have looked almost that good when we bought it in 2005. I lavished lots of wax polish on it, but we lived down a dirt road so it was seldom not dusty. I attach a snap of one such moment 2019, plus one from it's repair in Somerset on the way home and one frosted up this morn. As I've suggested elsewhere, to me that body oozes simple good taste (or boringly dull utility to those who favour the dramatic lines of later times). Happy new year, P

First time poster on this forum, I own a 2020 AllRoad A6 C8. Looks like I'm joining an elite band! Just before New Year I experienced the initial "electrical fault" warning which I typically ignored, drove home turned off, turned back on again to check and it had disappeared. Normal story. Two days later having driven for an hour or so, almost home and same thing comes back on, then almost immedately I get a red alert warning and instruction to pull over immediately. Within seconds it cycled through every possible electrical error in quick succession and then disengages gear. Fortunately able to drift off the road safely, can't select any gears but engine remains running, electronic handbrake won't select. Killed the engine crossed my fingeres and restarted - phew. Drove home (still with yellow battery fault showing). Then started googling and came across this thread - excellent information all round. Just delivered it to Tetbury Audi this afternoon, being tailed by the mirs with tow rope at the ready (thankfully didn't break down on the way, and not even the battery warning light showing). Explained the situation and proudly produced the Warranty Extension kindly provided by @Bingomighty. The comment back from the service lady was yes, we've seen a few of these, "if" that transpires to be the problem, you may be covered. Some of them are, some are not.. They've told me it will cost £150 to get it diagnosed but will get this back if I'm covered and this is what's caused it. Thanks again to everyone on this chat.

Here's a funny one - I thought I had somehow lost a bottle of water in the back of the car - searches never found it and it was only in the recent cold weather that I realised the water is inside the rear tailgate! Removed the two bungs from the underside and litres of water came out! Spoke to the main dealer and they booked it in for water ingress without even a murmer. Seems like this is something they already know about as they said it would need to be booked in for a week! This is a 2023 SQ7!

You are preaching to the converted here David. You need to get your message to the gullible public.

Hello Dave, We take the ‘they’ of ‘they said it was serviced..’ wasn’t a main dealer, but was a secondhand car sales operation -? If it’s accepted that ‘we will service it before collection..’ really equates to an oil and filter service using the cheapest of materials it won’t disappoint. At least, in your case, they only claimed to change the oil and filter, rather than a full service. Is this a diesel by the way? If so, the colour of the removed oil could be considered normal after 3000 miles. Perhaps you could come back to us and colour in the detail Dave. Kind regards, Gareth.

Map/Maf just read my error

That’s crazy! And surely very dangerous! I’ve since been to Audi and you need to toggle off 2 bits to deactivate.

Hi pull the engine cover off and the tube is about half way down on the right you can't miss it as it has a loop fitting on the top, to remove it twist and pull. Steve.

I totally agree with Steve on this

I'd definitely say it's a turbo issue. Don't buy cheap Chinese turbos as they'll probs last just out of warranty. Go for a good quality one.

Hi all, I joined in 2016 having owned an A4 at the time, but just picked up on Saturday a 2004 Allroad - have been looking for one for a few years now and this one popped up at a good price! Here he is: (Nicknamed The Big Lad) Absolutely love it.

The HPFP relies on fuel to lubricate it, running it dry will cause damage. That's why pre-filling the filter and priming as much as possible with the lift pump before cranking the engine is necessary.

Tony. How large is this drain from the battery? A few dozen miiliamps is normal for the alarm system. If it is significantly larger look for non-standard pieces of electrical equipment such as satnavs, radios, dashcams etc. and ensure they have been connected to an ignition switched power supply. It is too easy to connect such devices to a permanently live supply.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

I've found this guide which shows the Tyre pressures for most modern Audi's. You just have to select your model by age and engine. https://www.puretyre.co.uk/tyre-information/tyre-pressures/audi-tyre-pressures/ Hope it's useful :) Cheers Steve