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Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.

You can order the matrix lights on the myAudi app. I think one off £1 for a month initially on most the in app addons but thereafter user term choice and price dependant on pack.

That's good. As I say it's the airbag wiring connectors that MUST be the same.

That's fantastic news, glad you got sorted and glad you've found the forum helpful and useful 🙂

Thanks Joe. Just didn’t want to resort to brute force and ignorance and wreck the thing. Thanks for the info…much appreciated. 👍

Just back from garage , defo wheel bearing not sure if right or left , can't hear it spinning wheels by hand , but right was done last year so I think its the left same side as cv joint was replaced on . Being done in 3 weeks , said its safe out to drive until then no play in wheels.

Hi all. Just a quick one to say thank you for accepting me into the club. I’ve had my 2013 A3 TDi for a couple of years now and have enjoyed (almost) every minute of it. It’s the longest I’ve ever kept a car and will only sell it to get another Audi. I’m a mechanic so I do all my own work and most of the jobs are pretty straight forward. Even the EGR valve wasn’t too bad!! Anyway, here’s my ride, hope to see some of you at some events throughout the summer.

Off to garage in morning!

Welcome Iain, Seems an awful lot of car for the money to me. If it were mine the o.no. would be deleted. Good luck in finding an appreciative home. Regards, Gareth.

You need to get a pry-bar on the suspension. Arms are usually good for around 80k miles. Upper arms possibly. An inspection of the engine and transmission mount would be worthwhile as suggested. If you are changing arms, Meyle HD or Lemforder only.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

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Hello John, I believe the rear camber is adjusted by the ‘off centre’ outboard wishbone bolt, which rotates on its off-centre axis, to adjust the alignment. The adjustment is of course very fine. If I’m understanding it correctly, you feel the offender is the original wishbone ( and of course bolt), whereas you feel the newly replaced wishbone ( and bolt?) is satisfactory. Odd! Obviously, more critical than the bolt and its correct rotational position, is the bush in the lower section of the hub carrier. Was this renewed when the wishbone and spring were replaced? Have you checked the near side bush? Any amount of DIYing adjustment will be fruitless, so just forget it. Way forward as I see it:- Check outer ( and inner in fact) bushes for wear. Buy and fit new adjusting bolts - usually listed on EBay as genuine VAG. Get the car realigned on professional equipment. In case it help:- I use my local ATS folks, since they seem to know what they are doing, and more importantly, you can talk to them. Yours? Beware of claims of super systems. I find that the equipment is indeed sophisticated, but the operator’s knowledge of how to use it, may not be so sophisticated! Could you come back to us with the answers to the questions John, Kind regards, Gareth,

Is there anything in the spare wheel well such as a battery? I'd definitely recommend you try eBay. You might find one if you look under vw golf as the golf space saver will fit the A3 hub.

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club ! Good to have you onboard Hello Bel, Regrettably normally true, but check you at least have the compressor and an aerosol of tyre sealer all in a black polystyrene type holder, shaped to fit in the spare wheel well. If you haven’t, then you might consider buying ( or they pay for) a spare wheel ‘kit’. I you don’t have the shaped holder and compressor etc. then it is possible the car originally came with a ‘proper’ spare wheel, but a previous owner has ‘forgotten’ to replace it in the well! A requested copy of the build record should state whether it was originally supplied with a spare wheel. Let us know how things progress. Kind regards, Gareth.