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Thanks Steve. This is a something we have been trying, often unsuccessfully, to convince owners of for a few years. Any unexplained electronic problem should always start by having the battery tested professionally, which involves measuring the voltage while drawing a large load. A simple multimeter measurement without a load does not reveal faults such as sulphation of the electrodes that causes high internal resistance.

Hey all. new and first time A3 owner. My choice of car is the A3 Etron 8v 65 plate. I believe to be the last year before facelift. I have to say I absolutely love the car. Very economical. Battery imo is still pretty good at around a 25 mile range. my particular one has the full black interior (inc headlining) seats are leather/alcantara. Adaptive cruise control automatic parking brake (some I viewed had the electronic brake but not the automatic function) I have added an aftermarket box so I can have the wireless car play. Other than that I’m not sure what was optional on the car. Auto lights/wipers full beam assist etc. really happy with the comfort and handling of the car. Not having owned a non hybrid version I can’t really compare. I have come from a mk7 golf GTI performance (manual) and have to say I’m really happy with the performance of this little hybrid. Currently waiting on some new wheels to arrive as the standard ms are in poor condition and I’m going to have them refurbished and set up with winter tyres. Whilst the other set will have summer tyres on. im not a social media user and much prefer a forum. Look forward to getting to know you

I have, it isn't showing anything yet. However I got a call late this afternoon from the dealer supplying my car. It's being delivered to my door on the 29th!

Hi its the motor in the washer bottle fairly easy to change and the part wont break the bank unless you buy a genuine part. Steve.

Just in case someone happens across this post, the solution was in the end quite simple, however the indicators are not so obvious. I fixed this issue by simply replacing the battery. It is important to ensure you have a slightly more sophisticated diagnostic tool capable of completing the battery registration. The consequences of omitting this can cause the car to overcharge the new battery and shorten its life. It is reasonably well documented online that if weird and unexplained dashboard lights or false triggered DTCs appear with scan tools that it may be the battery. What threw me intially was the fact the car started fine, there were no dashboard fault lights and just some random DTC faults, which if cleared didn't re-trigger. I had other cars to drive, so got a big lazy but in the end I purchased an Ancel VD700. This has the EPB piston retraction function, battery registration and other useful stuff. The battery test shows the current voltage and importantly the lowest voltage during an engine start. In my instance, it dropped to 6.7v during startup, which was the biggest indicator yet that it was indeed the battery. Check your battery spec carefully, physical size, terminals, Ah rating etc. It's fine to put a 95Ah in a car with a 92Ah, the registration software will ask for this value and the car will charge it accordingly. Mine is Start/Stop so AGM, this is important. Fitting is ok, they are heavy (15Kg). Make sure you remove the -ve terminal first then the +ve. Wrap the terminals in a cloth when changing the battery. When replacing terminals, +ve first then -ve. Battery registration is easy, follow the prompts on your chosen scanner. I repeated the battery test and the lowest voltage was 10v, which is what I would expect is nominal. After a test drive, the Stop/Start works fine and to my relief the infernal bleep had stopped. I did read somewhere, there is a battery low warning, but that did no manifest itself on my car. When you are used to car batteries either being good or flat, this liminal state can throw your own diagnostics off track. Hope this helps.

Glad to hear you are satisfied with the Bridgestones.

It was just so I could replace if any needed splitting, I found the sizes on LLL parts, and bought 10 febi replacements. M10x1.5 if anyone needs it.

Just scan back over the last couple of weeks and pick up posts by Stevey Y and Clifford. The consensus of opinion there is mapping = increased potential for subsequent issues.

Further reading also seems to point to a cracked or failing dpf.

Unfortunately Ingrid, unless you can find in the paperwork that came with the car a guarantee covering the cambelt you are fighting a losing battle. The only recourse I can see is legal action in the courts, but that would be horrendously expensive and unlikely to succeed against the resources of a huge company like Audi. Sorry that I can not offer much hope. I wish you luck.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks a lovely s3

Your choice obviously Steve, but I wouldn’t be taking a 13 year old car to a main dealer, where diagnostic checks will seriously damage your wallet, and you will only be able to talk with a service receptionist. If it were mine, I would first be checking out a trusted localish independent, where you can hopefully talk with whoever does the diagnostics. Regards, Gareth.