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Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting numerous photo sessions of what goes where. I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. You’ll get there. Good luck, Gareth.

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings. Steve.

There's no point posting these types of videos as the background noise makes it difficult to isolate anything untoward. If it's a rattle, then nine times out ten it's a heat shield under the car. The fasteners corrode and the heat shield rattles. Also check brake dust shields, but this would be unusual on a 2019 B9. Lastly check the main exhaust straight pipe where it joins after the catalytic convertor. The exhaust clamps eventually corrode. Mikalor stainless clamps are the best you can fit. If you can trace and localise the sound, that's different, as you will be able to get a more detailed video.

I think you have a ‘running tap’ of advice on here as you need it Steve, although mine might be more of a drip! I’m very pleased you are going to have a go yourself. I very much understand the sentiment here, and you can’t go out and buy that. I’ll have to get my brain in gear and recall things like acceptable tolerances! No urgency, but could you refresh exactly what went wrong? Regards, Gareth.

Hi get the car scanned by an independent garage I have a feeling they are yanking your chain as an alternator change wont affect the sensors and disconnecting the battery normally resets the sensors which is what you do when a new Nox sensor is fitted. Steve.

Hi Scott. I get what you mean about checking the relay coil operation with a 9V battery and you say the coil operates out of the car. Can you detect the coil operating when it is plugged into the car, ie is it getting the 12V power from the car/ignition switch to operate the coil? If yes, have you checked that there is a 12V supply for the relay to send to the fuel pump? The coil may operate to close the switch but if there is no 12V to send to the fuel pump then you may need to look elsewhere like fuses. Apologies if you already know this but relays are just remote switches that draw low current. Their job is to switch the much larger currents drawn by equipment like the fuel pump, headlights etc so that the switch you turn or toggle in the cabin only needs to carry low current. Relays have at least four spade connectors on the base. Two (smaller) ones are the coil to close the switch and two (larger) ones send heavier current to the load, in your case the fuel pump. Does any of this help?

Hi I would say so, big problem being the cost of replacement its horrendous and not many garages will entertain it as its an engine out job, best thing you can do is go on YouTube to see what's involved, I personally wouldn't want it as a job. Steve.

new MOT just done

TAKE LOADS PICS STEVE THE STUFF YOU TAKE OF

Good idea to label each nondescript part like wires and connections which aren't obvious to the naked eye. It's surprising how quickly memory can fade. I suggest: [a] fit nuts etc. to their respective bolts/studs so they don't become mixed, [b] note the order of dismantling so you can reverse it for re-assembly, [c] note or mark the relative positions of parts such as camshaft & crankshaft that need to be phased correctly when re-fitted.

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew

Listening to audio recordings has always been a problem for us. We each become attuned to the noises our own car makes, so when an unusual noise occurs the human brain can mentally filter out the normal noises and hear the abnormal noise. Unfortunately when a stranger hears an audio recording he hears every noise and can not distinguish the abnormal one.

Hi all, Since my last post in June, the issue has reoccurred. In intelligent mode, the petrol engine does not shut off. The electric range in fact increases and the car does not alternate between ICE and electric. I am experiencing 15mpg at best on my usual ten mile journeys. (With the battery depleted I usually get 25 - 30 in similar temperatures). I am booked in again at Oldham Audi on 22nd Jan, so I will provide an update post. Andy

Thank you very much for your reply. Audi dealership is trying to solve this problem since october 2023. After the diagnosis they find error P044100 - EVAP emission incorrect. The solution was to change N80 valve, but the problem came back! Every 2000km, more or less, the problem returns and i have to stop the car, shut off engine and restart the car so that the system works normally again. I went back to the workshop more than 10 times and they changed practically everything in the EVAP system, but without success. Next appointment at the dealership will be on the 11th. I'm curious about what they'll replace this time...