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i have fitted new seals on bootlid lights and put a thin bead of automotive silicon both on the seal and on the bodywork where the seal fits the last 3 days weve seen lots of heavy rain ond have had no water in boot cavity hope this helps

Hi all, Just dropping in to say hi 👋🏼 and looking forward to engaging with other like minded Audi owners. I'm coming for a VW Transporter to this Audi A6 Avant 45 Black Edition which in comparison is very luxury machine and a breath of fresh air.

Had a look online today. S3 suspension is pretty basic for what it is, say comparing to multi-link suspension, so in theory should be easier to diagnose. With all suspension related clunks, then start on the cheap side before you swap out major components. As suggested, check the coil springs. With the state of the roads, not unusual to lose an inch on the end of the coi springl, either top or bottom. Wheel needs to be off to make a proper check, and you’re looking for sharp edges on the ends of the coil. On a 2016 car, then shock absorber/strut isn’t a bad call, however, is it misting? Also look at the bump stops and their conditioning, it might be bottoming out? ARB links, and ARB bushes would be next culprit. That just leaves the top mount and the wishbone arm bushes.

Hi if you buy the o.e. seal and put it on dry it will leak its got bugger all to do with the quality of the plastic as the bottom of the plastic housing forms part of the sump pan seal so its more to do with the sealant, I have always found the genuine Ford sealant works best, don't know what's in it but it works really well on any sump pan even the tin ones the only thing I would say is buy a genuine belt, the oe seals are Febi, Corteco or INA but Meyle are the same quality, they also do a chain conversion kit so you never have to change the belt again but at around £800 thats a bit steep. Steve.

Fair comment Gareth. I agree with that . I ordered a Corteco cover/seal from Autodoc as they are a reputable parts manufacturer (corteco),as with the crank pulleys etc they make. The problem was that as i mentioned,the part (topran ) from JGC and autodoc both had different mounting bolt holes ... so i did not know which was correct. The centre crankshaft seals are generally forgiving and seal well,but the outer plastic cover rubber seals are the leak point especially on the 2 bottom outer corners. The problem with aftermarket sees the plastic warp from engine heat and compromise the seal. Many are not perfectly straight to begin with. Most technicians apply a pea-sized dob of sealant to the lower outer corners when fitting ,as this area is a known leak point. However £150 plus vat and carriage ordered from LL is in my view well over the top ,even for OEM VW. I could of course reuse the old one, but a leak drip there can compromise the main timing belt , so not worth it. The cover itself is mounted dry ,as is the PTF seal,so a lot relies upon the quality of the part ,hence my choice of the Corteco . I will order one again from autodoc if i cannot find the same corteco (not chinese clone ) on Ebay once i get more info from LL. Thanks for your post .. always nice to talk to members ... regards stefan

I managed to order one of the new “RS” front grill badges from Audi Belfast last week. 10-14 day back order but will still arrive before my actual car does so all good. Part numbers and quantity needed… x1 A8Y0 853 736 F x1 A8Y0 853 755 F x2 AN 909 747 01

Work on the principle that warranty companies will get out under a snakes belly with a top hat on to avoid paying out. It’s always worth giving the small print a good couple of coats of studying and thinking about before putting your signature on any piece of paper.

Welcome Jay, First investigate a broken spring very close to its end and often difficult to see unless carefully inspected. Regards, Gareth.

Got a few jobs to sort on it, both rear cv boots, passenger side under tray is damaged, drivers mirror glass is loose, has a slight vibration whilst driving so maybe that’s wheels balancing, it has an iPhone cable plugged in yet no aux etc shows on screen, tbh I wasn’t really after an s4 as I already have an s2 avant but I won it at an auction so had to pay 😂

Stefan have you tried downloading the “MyAudi” app and then register your car on it (need v5 details), that way you should have visibility of all work done to it by Audi or Audi specialist garages. That’s what I found anyway when I downloaded the App 5 years ago, I could see all the previous 3 years of service history prior to me buying the car. Only issue is your reliant on the garage putting the detail into the text and it’s very much hit or miss, Glasgow Audi just inputted major service with no breakdown of what that covered, whist Inverness Audi went the extra mile and actually listed full details.

Well done. That engine bay looks impossibly clean. Has Mr. Sheen been assisting?

Hi Nathan, I pasted the image into ChatGPT. The AI reckons you need to change up gears to be more efficient! 😆 Here’s the explanation: That >E< symbol on the DIS (Driver Information System) of your Audi S4 B7 Avant is the efficiency / gear shift indicator. What it means It’s prompting you to shift up to a higher gear for better fuel economy. The “E” = Efficiency. The arrows > < indicate a recommendation rather than a fault. Typically appears when: You’re accelerating lightly The engine is at higher RPM than needed The ECU calculates a more economical gear is available When you’ll see it Most common on manual gearboxes. Can appear in Tiptronic / manual mode on automatics. More noticeable in steady cruising or gentle acceleration. Is it a problem? No — completely normal. It’s just Audi’s early eco-driving aid (pre-“Drive Select efficiency modes” era). If you ignore it, nothing happens — it doesn’t affect performance or reliability. If you want, I can show: How to disable it (cluster coding via VCDS/OBDeleven) Other common B7 DIS symbols and hidden warnings I hope that helps buddy. 👍🏻

You’ve probably dodged a bullet on the Fiat 500. Honestly, they are not like older style Fiats in terms of build, and don’t tend to survive north of the Equator! My eldest daughter had a 2009 Fiat 500 and my youngest daughter had a 2012 Punto. Both needed oil sumps due to corrosion. You can’t leave it, if you lose oil, you risk seizing the engine. Incredible as that might seem, there’s no engine undertray on these cars. I think the metal they use was a can of peach slices in a different life! Older style Audi’s can be a labour of love, but if you service them, they tend to run and run. Anyway, best of luck and hopefully you get it resolved.

Seems it does, as I’ve found a part number for it. Belt is 04L115264A. Link to LLL parts for A3, CRBC engine, diesel, 2013 plate: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/1/115/115055

Hi Took the E-Tron GT on it's first long journey yesterday to the Simply Audi Day. I did some basic calculations after the trip. I covered 211 miles only taking 205 miles from the battery and it had cost me £22.05 to fully charge the battery (291 miles with out aircon, 261 with) from 30 miles max, which gave me approx. 65 M.P.G for the journey, and I have still got 50 miles left in the battery. Which is not bad for a car of it's size and ability. Tony

Doesn’t seem so. The ‘language policing’ system is pretty crxp! You can enter offensive terminology in initial letter form, and it allows that! System package logic I guess.

Hi I don't think they can, hardly going to contravene the indecent publication act. Steve.

Hi its done it to me a few times, most memorable was when I was trying to explain post injection on diesels for regeneration and I happened to mention R*E*T*A*R*D as in reference to the ignition, it made the whole post scrap. Steve.