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Perfect mate. All done. Thank you. Have a great weekend!!

Annual servicing all day long, but certainly every 10k miles. Audi moved to long service regimes because they were shifting cars with finance and offered free servicing as an incentive. They also introduced it to seduce fleet dealers who hoped to reduce their running costs. The whole thing is a fallacy. The reality is no synthetic oil can retain the lubrication properties to protect an engine after 18k miles. Down the line, an unsuspecting new owner will buy an ex-fleet or leased 3-4 year old car and discover premature engine wear and pick up the bill. For all the costs of an oil filter and 5-6 litres of fresh oil, just change it. I personally do it every 5k miles, still use Castrol Edge 5w30 LL, but my 2017 plate 3.0 TDI Allroad will be my last diesel.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a lovely car.

If LED or LED Matrix - unfortunately that's the price. It's one of these scenarios whether you go through your insurance, given costs. Breaker yards are also fraught with difficulty, in terms of description and comeback if there's an issue with the headlight. Used breakeryard.com - never again. If it was me, then Charles Trent. With second hand - you'll likely find component protection that can only be adapted with dealer level software such as ODIS, however I could be wrong though.

Try this . Finally click , ' no display '

Hi the letter is a build year denomination, if its the same part with a different letter it probably was manufactured a few years later. Steve.

Hi Spartacus, yes I bought a new oil level sensor from a reputable retailer. After it was fitted, I took the car for a test drive, I should mention at this point, that my mechanic thought it was an oil pressure sensor, despite all the info messages. Anyway, as soon as the test started, the same fault lights illuminated. I drove back the garage where the mechanic stood with a new oil pressure sensor in hand and a smug grin on his face. Turns out he was right all along and the fault has never returned.

You can get an independent mapper to map out the adblue system. This is cheaper than repairing the system which could be a fault with the adblue pump etc. I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up.

1st it means what it says! There is a countdown and at 0 the engine will close down. 2nd the problem is vv likely the failure of the AdBlue pump and that really ps me off as 1 it is the result of Audi using an inadequate/poorly made pump, and, even worse, installing it inside the AdBlue tank so that it cannot economically be repaired or replaced. You need a new tank and associated electronics. When the new part is fitted, it has to be registered to the system. Some people, esp in US, say the solution is to ditch AdBlue. That's forbidden in UK and will show up as an MoT fault.

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Hi. Thanks you for your all . Stevey Y's suggestion lead me to find some silicone hoses the will do the job. Saved the day and the car Regards Dave

This is something that happens all the time when the egr cooler fails ..the coolant leaks into the exhaust and you get a ton of smoke and coolant loss. Cheap enough fix if you know a decent garage as it takes 1-2 hrs to swap them out .

Hello everyone, Matej here, I am fresh owner of my first ever Audi. Coming from Osijek, Croatia. Bit of a background, 30 years old, been into cars all my life. Order of the cars that brought me here from first to the Audi Mercedes A140, Alfa Romeo 156 1.9 JTD, Alfa Romeo 159 1.9 JTS, Mercedes W212 E200 CDI, Mercedes W213 E220d, and now a proud owner of: Audi A6 Avant 3.0 BiTDi Quattro Competition. I still have the 159, wouldnt sell it for anything :D Don't have many pics, will do a photosession in the next few weeks. So far I am loving the car, it has a bug that is driving me crazy, but the power from that V6 is amazing. Drives like a charm. Looking forward to being a part of the Audi comunity :) IMG_8349.HEIC

The Q6 (and most Audi) use passive TPMS based on the ABS and rolling resistance (also known as the cheap 💩version). You can’t see the actual pressures. Problem is that it can trigger due to differential wear on a tyre or just because it feels like it. Had a warning a couple of months ago for a low pressure on the rear near side wheel. It was at 38 others were at 40. Had just come off the motorway. So basically, if it goes off, you need to stop and check it, or at least slow down to 50 mph if you have the standard run flats fitted

I can't answer your question, but I do wonder why you want that data displayed somewhere. Surely all you need to know while driving is whether the pressures are wrong, i.e. have they changed since you set them?

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