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  1. Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.
    4 points
  2. Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.
    4 points
  3. Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe
    4 points
  4. i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg
    3 points
  5. Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container
    3 points
  6. Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.
    2 points
  7. Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  8. Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham
    2 points
  9. Hello Joel, Can I say it as I see it? You are trying to convince yourself that all maybe (in caps) alright, without evidence that it is. In reality, everything you now say are assumptions, and we all know what that word can be broken down to. The car hasn’t really had the best of servicing with the last owner, but only to the bare minimum requirement. Extended warranty?? Yes of course you can pay c£1,500 over 3 years for a warranty - with you paying the first £250 of each and every claim - and locked in to paying Audi servicing charges?? A warranty maybe a handy backstop to have, but every claim comes with hassle and the inevitable ‘it’s wear and take and not covered’. Again, saying it as I see it, I wouldn’t be surprised if you convince yourself to buy it. Please bare in mind that you will hopefully get other opinions on here. Kind regards, Gareth. Gareth.
    2 points
  10. Not sure whether anyone will be interested in this but I just thought I would post my musings on our 4 week tour to Germany in our Q8. We just returned on Wednesday after crossing over on the Shuttle four weeks ago and making our way to Dortmund for our first overnight stop . Then we headed south to the little town of Parsbeg in Bavaria whjre we stayed for several days. Then up into the mountains of Bavaria to stay at Berchtesgaden for 5 days. We then crossed back to Berlin for a few days and then onto the wonderful city of Dresden where we stayed for a week. Finally we headed to a favourite Schlosshotel of ours in Lower Saxony whe re we stayed for 8 days. And then a leisurely drive heading for home for the same overnight in Dortmund before we spent 3 days in the little Belgian town of Ypres. I have a great Uncle who is buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Cemery at Tyne Cot. If anyone wants to visit a site that will take your breath away visit this cemetry. The number of young British Tommies buried here who perished in the mud of Paschendale wil make you weep . I have to say that although my missus and I have been touring Germany in the car for many years the road network of the country has deteriated a little in the last few years. Not so much you understand as the apalling state that the UK roads are in now. Many more speed restrictions and repairs on their Autobahn sytem now. However the overiding opinion was that their autobahns, their A and B roads are still in a superb state compared to our roads. Great signage,billiard smooth surfaces, well engineered cambers etc. Also the standard of driving on the Autobahns is so much higher than here. Precise signalling to either come out in a lane or back in again and an almost 100 % compliance to speed restrictions . The only thing I would say is that if you do get in the big boys outside lane on the unrestricted stuff to overtake slower traffic, even though you are probably doing 120 mph, the fast boys behind doing 140/150 plus will try to bully you to get back inside ! And also just maybe the UK registration and sticker does provoke some just a tad ! The car went well. We ticked over from 8000 miles to over 1000. Comfortable and just about fast enough. We had theusual software gliches that any Audi owber recognises nowadays. Lost the top screen one time as it just got stuck trying to initialsie. Then I lost my user identity " thingy " at start up one time so when I started the car my preference didnt kick in. Nothing too nasty and all sorted by a quick reboot by starting the car up again. The most annoying thing was a repeated loud bong and red warning triangle and exclamation mark in the drivers panel warninf of " limited visibilty " ! This came onquite a few times on the Autobahn when the minimum visibilty was at the very least 300 metres and more. God bless the EU eh in forcing he manufacturers in giving us that. Hope ths is of interest. If not just ignore. Frank
    2 points
  11. Japanese cars are usually better condition in comparison, their roads are amazing and clean, they don't salt their roads so usually underneath is spot on. You just need to make sure the agent in japan knows his beans when it comes to an auction purchase. I have had many a jap import of Japanese cars but cannot see it being much different for other brands too. Best bet is to get the VIN number and do a carVX report, this will show you the auction hisotry and their inspections, bit like MOT history. Cheap and well worth doing. https://carvx.jp/?referrer=VPjcntpvyYfg
    2 points
  12. Hi try LLL carparts they have a catalogue online the only bit you will needs your VIN code that should give you the part number, with regard to aftermarket as long as you don't buy Made in China they are generally spot on as Audi don't make the parts they buy them from Valeo or Febi or whoever sells to them at a preferential price. Steve.
    2 points
  13. All within half an inch to have missed it Colin - I feel sorry for him - it could happen to any of us. Perhaps we have more choice down this end of Wales, but £880 to deal with a minor-ish short scrape, does seem a little heavy on the pencil, as we say down here. Still, it’s done. Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  14. Not been on here or the car for a while been very busy with work and personal things but got back on it today and it's all together so hopefully I can turn her over tomorrow
    2 points
  15. Hi Gareth Jason would of known what was what, everything that could be useless or misleading all available from google. Steve.
    2 points
  16. Looking to sell my Audi Q5 2011 S-Line Quattro 2.0Tdi in black. 152k Miles, Mot runs out this week. Looks and drives well but i'm about to get a car through a salary sacrifice scheme so seeing if theres any interest out there. Car has 20" audi alloys with 275/45/20 tyres all with tons of tread left on them, no damage to walls. Was due to go for mot this week but external drivers door handle no longer opens the door. Taken door card off and can see the cable has snapped so is an easy fix, i'm just no good with anything like that. 5 previous owners, part service history Priced to sell, £2500. Will take some pics when weather clears up.
    2 points
  17. Might be worth speaking to retrofitters such as autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them in the past and they have been happy with the results. Might be able to activate them via vcds or obd11 etc.
    2 points
  18. Going on full VCDS fault code read this Friday, talking to numerous Gearbox specialists and the excellent guys at "ECUtestingltd" (Excellent You Tube Video for anyone else with similar issues on here ) who really know these 7 speed S-Tronic gearboxes and Mechatronic units inside out ( and in fact do various work for Audi Main Agents ) it seems my symptoms point heavily towards a Mechatronic fault, maybe the pressure sensors, valves or most likely the circuit board itself just starting to break down and sending the wrong pulses at the wrong time ........ know more once we've pulled the codes, then hopefully its just a case of removing the Mechatronic unit and sending it off to be completely reworked with new hard and software.
    2 points
  19. I did get a 3 month warranty when I got the car so I’ll be looking into that as soon as it’s diagnosed and I’m sure they told me I can use a garage of my choice. I’ll let you know when I find out, be biting my nails till then.
    2 points
  20. Hi. I changed the battery in the main key yesterday, and it did not fix the issue. However, the fault didn't appear today for some reason. I hope it will stay that way.
    2 points
  21. Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.
    2 points
  22. All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. Thanks for your assistance.
    2 points
  23. Andrew - ive not done this work but have stripped and re-roofed a car so I've been there,- removing the headlining is not that easy but I fancy with roof half open you may get enough slack and access to remove and replace rams. You can wedge the roof in this position 'half' - usually without damaging things- and you need wedge because it won't stay there. The key thing is that youll have to top up fluid in the pump and to get access most of the boot's lining may have to come out. None's too difficult but time consuming and so potentially expensive. There's no one i'd recommend. There are good hood trimmers but few may want the mechanical work. You'll need green hyd fluid for the pump and it must be filled to a set level, which you can just about see with your head on the boot floor.
    2 points
  24. Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.
    2 points
  25. I think I'll still be doing mine every 5 years or as close to it as I financially can, purely for my own peace of mind. On my Audi app now it even shows up, saying it's to be changed every 225k with no time interval below it.
    2 points
  26. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂
    2 points
  27. Hello all, I've recently bought the most poverty spec 230k mile A6 in the world! It's a 2.0 TDI, with no bluetooth, no parking sensors, no reversing camera, no leather/electric/heated seats, no map based Sat-Nav! But at least it works, and I quite like it, and it's the cheapest car to run (per mile) of any car I've recently owned! 🙂 (Until diesel prices increase that is.) It is an Audi however, so it does have a check engine light on. It throws codes for an engine mount solenoid, the front passenger door control module (which doesn't unlock the door) and a low battery voltage, so if anyone knows a good place to pickup cheap engine mounts and door control modules let me know! I have made some changes to it, Full oil change, new front brakes, new tyres all round and wind deflectors. I'd love some decent alloys and coil overs in the future, and maybe tint the rear windows. 🙂
    2 points
  28. The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.
    2 points
  29. Hi they are all the same, in my experience failure of the alternator clutch is rare but if it should occur changing the whole unit is best policy as they tend to last the lifetime of the unit they are on, different if the car has only done 30k and the alternator is good but the only effective way of removal is to take the alternator out then struggle for hours trying to get the old clutch off. Steve.
    2 points
  30. Hi if they do the service properly and take the sump plug out the brush head will fall out anyway, easy way out is if it is billed with a new plug fitted ask them if they found anything else in the tray as its a family heirloom.
    2 points
  31. just removed my large front undertray this morning but this is on an audi a4 b8 2011 similar to above but used a torx 25 bit mine are certain type torx screws where you just turn them twice and they are loose enough to pull out.there are 3 torx screws at the back of the tray and 3 at each side of the tray and then i am able to slide the try out backwards....note(if in your case) how the front part of the tray slots in place when putting it back with 2 slots going inside the small tray at the front and two slots stay on the outside of the tray....(note this and take a picture before removing.....you may just need to remove the 3 rear screws(again if in your case) and be able to grab the brush head but it will still mean jacking the car up and putting axle stands under.local garage might be helpful and only charge a small amount.easy enough job for me to do.
    2 points
  32. Hi nice to find another member that knows their fuel, I learned this long ago from a petro chemist I had in my cab, cetane / octane use of additives can only do more good than harm as they in moderation increase both, its all about increasing thermal burn rate which in real terms actually means lowing it down so it burns more efficiently leaving less unburnt fuel, more bang for your buck, supermarket fuel is blended down using fillers and detergent this gives more volume to the saleable amount IE 20000 litres is increased by 20%, but because detergent is water based it burns far less efficiently leaving more unburnt fuel and moisture which leaves all that sticky tar in the EGR valves on petrol and diesel, further problem being nearly all engines are direct injection so the recycled gas tends to coat the inlet valve backs therefore more sticky gunge in the stream will eventually exacerbate the problem, good dry efficient burn is good, sticky wet moisture laden bad burn is not. Steve.
    2 points
  33. I could not agree more. Why throw more good money after bad? It's unfortunate that if one wants to buy a cheap secondhand car one needs to have enough knowledge to know what you are letting yourself in for in terms of fault rectification. This applies much more to any vehicle that has been mapped or modified in regard to DPF or EGR removal because it is so much harder to obtain good free advice.
    2 points
  34. Hello Jason, I wonder if you would like to ‘dilute’ your claim that the best fuel to use is Shell, by prefixing it with something like ‘In my opinion’, since members follow advice based on the principle of what is written is indeed fact. It would be surprising to read that Shell would openly claim that their brand of fuel is the ‘Best’. Perhaps you would consider editing this post accordingly, or on the basis of reasonable claim, I can edit the post if you would prefer. Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  35. Until I bought my Audi I drove and towed with a BMW X3 and cruise control was available when towing on that. I just can't see any reason why Audi have decided to do this. But I'd still have the Audi in preference to the X3
    2 points
  36. Its amazing how things can happen, was out in the driveway last night and a guy from the top of my street commented how nice my sons A3 looked. He mentioned his son had a 2020 A3 but it got wrote off and he got another car on the insurance. I mentioned I needed a spare wheel and he quickly got on his phone rung his son up and found out he had a 18" Audi spacesaver (125/70/18) in his shed. I bought it from him for £30 , also bought a 2.5T Jack / toolkit from Amazon and am awaiting 5 wheel bolts for the spacesaver from GSF cars. The best thing is the subwoofer fits perfectly inside the spacesaver wheel. My son is a happy chappie !!!
    2 points
  37. John. You have not mentioned how much you paid for the car, but I doubt it was a lot considering its age and mileage, in which case I fear it will cost you more in money and time to get recompense than the car is worth. I suggest you swallow the bitter pill and accept that you have been conned, then move on to either repairing or replacing the car.
    2 points
  38. Welcome Aran, Not reaching temperature is usually a classic symptom of a failed/failing thermostat, so I would be renewing that first. Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  39. Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.
    2 points
  40. no problem,i know on the a6 of the same year its fairly straightforward, you need to remove the plastic strip that runs back from the door handle,theres 3 bolts there and then theres 2more down onthe panel where the switch is for the elec window. maybe google it and itll show you clearly.Greg
    1 point
  41. Worth describing the symptoms to Audi and taking their advice on potential costs. As I said, I would just forget about the recall, unless they can assure you it is connected with the Adblu issue.
    1 point
  42. Had the same problem on my 21 VW T roc , it was a known problem and called the mooing brake problem VW changed the rear brake pads with a different type and the problem was solved .
    1 point
  43. The halogen bulbs are 5w and so are these led bulbs that I put in, the rest of the bulbs are working fine in the car. I'll admit that electrics aren't my strong point. And I'm pretty sure there was no fault codes when I plugged it in the other week.
    1 point
  44. What fuel do you guys put in your RS models ? ... my son has just bought a '21 RS 5 and the fuel flap lists E5 and E10 but I think he'd be better off putting E5 in it.
    1 point
  45. Wow, you've made great progress. I need my engine out yet lol 😆
    1 point
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