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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Hello Christian, I’ve declined to comment until now, but I too find room for concerns with your overall maste (sic) plan. I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, but doesn’t this boil down to ‘ …. give me your details and I will then reveal my Master Plan! Being realistic about it, I think it’s highly unlikely that many members will have a contra view to that already expressed by Alpha Omega, and will feel - rightly or wrongly - that they are leaving themselves too wide open to the potential of being spammed. In an attempt to minimise that risk, perhaps you could let us have some detail of your background Christian, and successes you have had with other forums you have approached to date. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

If you read the posts on any given day both current and historical you will soon see the main types of problems that the forum deals with service history enquiries are rare, mostly a lot of people who have bought cars with some sort of history and then found the car has been remapped, quite a popular way of buggering up a good car apparently, so the forum gradually unravels it possibly gets the truth out of the poster and proceeds from there, it may well be beneficial if you clarified what your master plan is and quantified its specific aims not unlike a paper service history. Steve.

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Audi have replaced the drivers door latch under warranty part no. A4K2 837 016 H the car still at Audi checking hand brake .

Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Will do me for now.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

For sale: 2003 Audi A3 Quattro Sport 1.9 TDI (130 BHP) 3 door hatchback The car has fairly low mileage for its age (not quite146,000 miles). Careful lady owner from 2007 to present (1 prior owner) Purchased in 2007 the car is still running well and has been serviced at makers specified intervals. (Full service history available). MOT covers up to 11 November 2024. Latest regular cambelt & water pump replacement was January 2021 (@135,800 miles). Reconditioned gearbox & new clutch in January 2022 (@139,900 miles). All road springs have been renewed. Suspension bushes renewed. New headlamp housings were fitted in 2017. New battery was fitted in February 2023 (5 year guarantee). New front tyres in November 2023. (Rear tyres have over 60% tread remaining). Minor mechanical repairs were addressed as required during ownership, & details can be provided. There are a few very minor bodywork ‘dings’. Alarm removed for repair (available). Fuel & temp gauges under reading. Love this car but reluctantly selling as we don’t have space for it any more. Looking for best offer of £1,000 plus for this rare A3 variant.

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.

Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋

Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners

Hi Dan. I would think paint would last that long being bombarded by grit off the road. But, you can buy a proper black surround and grill for the A3 from E Bay for £120. Tony

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

Hello Nick, As Stevey says. I been putting a dampener on anything to do with large wheels for some time, since the trend seems to be for the largest wheels and the skinniest tyres - because they look good. Yet, you cannot see the wheels when you are sat in the car, but you are the one who suffers the adverse ride quality. Add to the potential of harder sidewalls, probably XL etc. and everything gets magnified. An equally aged friend found the ride to be not to his liking on an S.Line with skinny tyres chosen for him by his children - it went back. Mind, I’d not be too happy about the expense of changing wheels and tyres, but… Interesting you mention Bridgestone, since I have been considering these on our non-Audi. For me, I want as comfortable ride as I can get from the tyres, and as much mileage as poss. so any recommendations are welcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Charles, Instead of ceramic, look at 'coated' rotors/discs. I know exactly what you are saying about the discs with slight surface rust every morning. So i've been looking at Brembo's UV treated rotors. https://www.brembo.com/jp/ComunicatiStampa/2012/Brembo_UV_Coated_Discs_EN.pdf Let us (me) know if you get these, and how you get on 🙂 Thanks, Joe

I now have an update from Audi UK and my response is below, by way of an update: Dear Mr Hayward I hope all is well? Thank you for your email. Thank you for sharing the experiences of other Audi owners and taking time to review this in your own time. While I fully appreciate your experience, I am unable to predict future faults of the car. I would like to assure you that we have fully taken on board your comments and viewpoints regarding your most recent experience. Please rest assured, your thoughts and suggestions will be fed back to our design team regarding the alert messages on the dashboard. Often changes are made off the back of customer comment and feedback. While we are unable to change what has happened, we can definitely restore your faith by offering a gesture to recognise your experience. Therefore, please can you advise what we can do for you? Please note, any escalations to Audi Germany will be redirected back to the UK team, i.e the Executive Office as your vehicle is UK registered, therefore will faull under our jurisdiction. I await your response. Dear Feranza, Thank you for your response but I am still not getting a straight answer. Firstly, I do not know if there is a misunderstanding but I am not expecting you to predict future faults in my car. I accept faults and components fail from time to time. My whole argument is the lack of warning from the vehicle to the driver. My question remains unanswered ‘ Why does Audi think it unnecessary to provide a ‘no charge’ indication? You indicate that Audi UK have taken on board my comments and suggestions but the car is designed in Germany. Can you tell me if Markus Duesmann is still with the Group or has Gernot Dollner taken his place ? Have my comments been sent to either of these two gentlemen? From what I understand there maybe up to 50,000 vehicle in the UK which could suffer similar faults. If this is the case what is the Board of Management responsible for Technical Development and Product Lines in Audi AG doing about it, or going to do about it? You tell me that even if I write to the Board of Management my communication will come back to Audi UK, because my vehicle is UK registered. However these faults are appearing in Audis all over the world which were designed in Germany. Until I have a positive response that Audi AG know about this and are taking positive action I consider that direct communication with Audi AG is the only way of obtaining straight answers. Thank you for continuing to ask me what financial gesture would placate me, however that is secondary to obtaining a positive answer that AUDI AG are developing a fix which will be available within a reasonable timescale. In the meantime it would be appreciated if you could provide me with the email address for the PA of the person who now has Board responsibility.

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

And no vibration at the steering wheel or pedals? In that case I would look to the rear tyres being damaged or out of balance as the most likely candidate. That does not rule out other possibilities such as worn wheel bearings, loose wheel nuts, warped brake discs but they wou;d cause symptoms that you have not mentioned.

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?