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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Hello Christian, I’ve declined to comment until now, but I too find room for concerns with your overall maste (sic) plan. I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, but doesn’t this boil down to ‘ …. give me your details and I will then reveal my Master Plan! Being realistic about it, I think it’s highly unlikely that many members will have a contra view to that already expressed by Alpha Omega, and will feel - rightly or wrongly - that they are leaving themselves too wide open to the potential of being spammed. In an attempt to minimise that risk, perhaps you could let us have some detail of your background Christian, and successes you have had with other forums you have approached to date. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 air suspension problems are well documented and can be costly to repair

Hi Steve, thats not cynicism its a lifetimes worth of trying not to be had over and as with all of us we fail occasionally, good spot with the email part, this gentleman wont give a deposition of what his precise plans are or what is the product he intends to market, I like you am beginning to smell something that is hidden under a ton of sandbagging prose which never realises any tangible conclusion, no need to reply if this isn't good for you ,the question remains, what isn't good. Steve.

If you read the posts on any given day both current and historical you will soon see the main types of problems that the forum deals with service history enquiries are rare, mostly a lot of people who have bought cars with some sort of history and then found the car has been remapped, quite a popular way of buggering up a good car apparently, so the forum gradually unravels it possibly gets the truth out of the poster and proceeds from there, it may well be beneficial if you clarified what your master plan is and quantified its specific aims not unlike a paper service history. Steve.

Well i finally got my coolant leak issue resolved. Hose and seal issues. So extended warranty wouldn't cover it. Dealer said they will cover costs as gesture of good faith. ( i did wait a while for an appointment) I am pleasantly surprised, and faith in the dealers has been considerably restored. Any other pleasant dealership stories out there.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Those v70s were great!

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Welcome Alberto, Are you saying you and/or your son are capable of safely renewing brake pads? It seems you have already bought replacement pads. Since the seller seems disinterested in sorting it out, why not carry out your own assessment of the remaining brake pad thickness, and simply renew them - since you have them. Worse possible case:- brake pad wear light remains on after you have done that -? Worry about sorting that out when you get to that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

Loving those wheels 👍

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋

Update, still in garage but mechanic had a week off, taken apart and parts awaiting testing, pump and injectors. they did say they had some “sludge” in the turbo hoses ? Not had any experience with these cars before so I’m bald and chewed through all my nails.

Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican

Hi Dan. I would think paint would last that long being bombarded by grit off the road. But, you can buy a proper black surround and grill for the A3 from E Bay for £120. Tony

Hi try eBay or put in a request in breaker link.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

Hmm, been following this thread with interest, in a previous life I was a naval engineer, so I’m very aware of just how corrosive salt water can be, even over a short time and of course vented discs have an ‘inside’ that you can’t see, that’s corroding away merrily that close to the sea. ceramic discs will stop it all. Coated discs, as Charles said, if it’s just a surface treatment, it clearly won’t survive as a surface very long and will then allow the swept surface of the disc to corrode, but, as it’s the swept area, there’ll still be the nasty grinding noises when you 1st use the brakes. the coating, assuming it covers 100% of the entire disc (inside & out), would still stop those areas corroding but at a much lower cost. depends how much the grinding gets on your nerves. be interesting to see how you get on if you go for the coated discs, I’m fairly close to the coast (7 miles) but it’s not too bad here for salt spray etc, we get some, but only in high winds & storms.

Thanks yes, saw that thread. It seems a common issue with the C7, they like to let water in as much as possible. Further investigation this evening and I narrowed down the leak. See the picture attached, but the leak is coming through a seam in the side wall. Circled the area in red. I have sealed this area with Gorilla waterproof patch & seal tape. I removed the Voltage stabiliser unit to dry it out, and also moved the wiring loom for the Voltage Stabiliser unit up and back out of the spare wheel well up into the area where the main fuse board unit is. I hope that these two actions will cure the problem.

Looks like its sorted , I thought I would check the connections around the ECU so removed the bulkhead trim and found about 6mm of silt / gunge in the area below the ECU , the drain was blocked and whole area looked damp , after clearing silt and unblocking drain I dried the whole area with electrical solvent . 10 minutes later all warning light went out and have not reappeared and that was 3 days ago, so hopefully

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.

Hi Charles, Instead of ceramic, look at 'coated' rotors/discs. I know exactly what you are saying about the discs with slight surface rust every morning. So i've been looking at Brembo's UV treated rotors. https://www.brembo.com/jp/ComunicatiStampa/2012/Brembo_UV_Coated_Discs_EN.pdf Let us (me) know if you get these, and how you get on 🙂 Thanks, Joe

I now have an update from Audi UK and my response is below, by way of an update: Dear Mr Hayward I hope all is well? Thank you for your email. Thank you for sharing the experiences of other Audi owners and taking time to review this in your own time. While I fully appreciate your experience, I am unable to predict future faults of the car. I would like to assure you that we have fully taken on board your comments and viewpoints regarding your most recent experience. Please rest assured, your thoughts and suggestions will be fed back to our design team regarding the alert messages on the dashboard. Often changes are made off the back of customer comment and feedback. While we are unable to change what has happened, we can definitely restore your faith by offering a gesture to recognise your experience. Therefore, please can you advise what we can do for you? Please note, any escalations to Audi Germany will be redirected back to the UK team, i.e the Executive Office as your vehicle is UK registered, therefore will faull under our jurisdiction. I await your response. Dear Feranza, Thank you for your response but I am still not getting a straight answer. Firstly, I do not know if there is a misunderstanding but I am not expecting you to predict future faults in my car. I accept faults and components fail from time to time. My whole argument is the lack of warning from the vehicle to the driver. My question remains unanswered ‘ Why does Audi think it unnecessary to provide a ‘no charge’ indication? You indicate that Audi UK have taken on board my comments and suggestions but the car is designed in Germany. Can you tell me if Markus Duesmann is still with the Group or has Gernot Dollner taken his place ? Have my comments been sent to either of these two gentlemen? From what I understand there maybe up to 50,000 vehicle in the UK which could suffer similar faults. If this is the case what is the Board of Management responsible for Technical Development and Product Lines in Audi AG doing about it, or going to do about it? You tell me that even if I write to the Board of Management my communication will come back to Audi UK, because my vehicle is UK registered. However these faults are appearing in Audis all over the world which were designed in Germany. Until I have a positive response that Audi AG know about this and are taking positive action I consider that direct communication with Audi AG is the only way of obtaining straight answers. Thank you for continuing to ask me what financial gesture would placate me, however that is secondary to obtaining a positive answer that AUDI AG are developing a fix which will be available within a reasonable timescale. In the meantime it would be appreciated if you could provide me with the email address for the PA of the person who now has Board responsibility.

And no vibration at the steering wheel or pedals? In that case I would look to the rear tyres being damaged or out of balance as the most likely candidate. That does not rule out other possibilities such as worn wheel bearings, loose wheel nuts, warped brake discs but they wou;d cause symptoms that you have not mentioned.