56Doc

Sorry, no, they came off years ago, just before I sold the car (buyer wanted the 18” wheels). Think that was around 2006 as the timing chains were just starting to rattle, it was a V8, so engine out job, was quoted £6k, so I sold it before it became a real issue.)

There's some on eBay, found them earlier.

There's a pair of old Allroads on Autotrader but niether have the option wheels, which would have helped!

Ah, ok, they were the option wheels for the Allroad instead of the standard 17” 5 spoked wheels if that helps. I’ll try but I need a dry day to move stuff out of the way!

Sadly no, & the wheels are a bit buried just now! I did have, when I took them off to sell but I’ll check.

I’ve had these wheels since I sold my old 2004 Allroad many years ago & now they’re just in the way, so if anyone wants them, they’re available in Weston-super-Mare! they were refurbished after I bought them, I used them as my summer wheels. I know 1 wheel had a chip in the lacquer, but that was it, they’ve been undercover in the garage ever since I Sold the car, So should be pretty much the same. free to collector if no takers I’ll have to scrap them.

Does anyone have op access to a diagram showing the coolant flow around the engine, water pump & radiator please. i want to fit an electric coolant heater. ive fitted one before to other cars but not an Audi A6! cheers folks Dave F

Hi Steve, if you scroll up this thread, there’s a very long account of how I did it (dated Dec 2025), along with a link to the U-tube video I found & followed. i used some ‘JB Weld’ Black silicone adhesive sealant in the wind deflector slot to stop any water getting in & hold the deflector down. (i suspect it’s the deflector distorting very slightly over time that allows the water to start seeping in, that brings dust & dirt & it just gets worse.) There’s also an account from Photon on his repair fir this problem. youll need somewhere dry to do it otherwise the silicone won’t cure or stick to anything. good luck.

I did wonder if the holes where there to make the sunroof cassette a bit lighter, only possible reason I could come up with but its definitely not a clever design!

Glad it’s fixed! Nothing like wet carpets is there!

I bought from the site: ’Satnavmapupdates’ (Sat nav map updates - all one word). the website will explain how to check which MMI software version you’ve got (which is dictated by the hardware fitted) & whether you can just upgrade the software to get car play/android auto. If the answers no, you’ll need hardware upgrades as well & that cost my son around £500 some 4-5 yrs ago in his A6 Avant the actual upgrade is easy via SD card you just plug in. if you order from them, they’ll send you a ‘how to’ guide by email. ive added android auto/car play & updated the maps via this company. Very easy & not expensive (I bought them separately over about 18 months but think its cheaper to buy them together. website is:- https://www.satnavmapupdate.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21012590069&gbraid=0AAAAApdNCKWCqoLqoNqmI1627SYvvo_VJ&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo4TKBhDRARIsAGW29bdvX277ezIT8kvSDC2zm6_7Esq6-xrvX7oe8cL-laSsSBKJGmyfkiUaAuc5EALw_wcB

Some did, but I think that’s only the more recent models, back when mine was built (2015), it was only an option, although they fitted the kit but only activated it if that option was purchased. So mine just needed a software update.

Cars booked in with a non-franchised specialist for a ACC calibration next Thurs.

That’s was the 1st thought but the connections were reported good (I haven’t checked them myself) & the sensors weren’t removed from the bumper. There’s also no error codes recorded by the car. Im concerned that if I pay for a calibration, it may not flag up whatever’s causing this if it isn’t just a calibration error. (The final phrase in the error message is the most confusing, ‘No sensor vision’. ) That central camera above the mirror, I thought, was only for the lane keeping assistance, which does work consistently. No other systems appear to be affected. ive been out to the car today & the ACC system switches on with no error messages on the drive but I Haven’t driven it. it’s the fact that it sometimes works, but only at slow speeds (urban, 30-40), as soon as I’m up to motorway speeds, it switches off & shows the error message & simply will not come back on even if I stop for a break. It’s being a bit elusive & inconsistent! not sure what the next step is now! I’ve seen one video that showed some corrosion on the connector block for the sensors which caused a problem but, that also flagged as an error code, which mine isn’t! im going to ask a non-franchised Audi specialist tomorrow if he can help, but he’s not an electrics specialist, with anything mechanical, he’s damn good. But I’m going to have a look at the sensors & connectors asap, weather dependant! Just to provide ev they connections are good.

Not sure if this will take it to the other thread.

Ok, I’ve got a wierd issue with my ACC. The front bumper came off to replace the headlights (constantly fogging up badly tried for a couple of years to fix but couldn’t, so just got new ones!) Anyway, lights all good but the ACC now only works sometimes at low speeds but not always, simply doesn’t activate & shows the error message ‘Audi Braking guard & ACC unavailable: No Sensor Vision’. if it does switch on it works fine until I hit motorway speeds when it just switches itself off, displays that message & doesn’t come one again. If I don’t use it 7ntil I hit the motirway & up to speed, it just doesn’t do anything except display the same message no errors showing! Plugs & Wiring checked, all coding checked, nothing erroneous found. Now tearing hair out! anyone got any ideas?

Previous sunroof leaking question was posted by T6NYY, with a title of ‘LEAKING PANORAMIC SUNROOF’. hopefully you can find that too.

Here’s the link to the u-tube video, it’s good & there are details below of how & what I did. https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments We get this leaking into the car when the drains get blocked, even partially, so clear them 1st (see below, net curtain flexible rod is perfect) if you can find my original posts, I put some more details of how to access the front edge of the sunroof cassette. if you open the sunroof and look down from above, the wind deflector has a thick hard rubber seal along the bottom that just pushes into a trough in the cassette. (It’s about 4-5mm wide) that trough has a series of holes in the bottom. Daft idea but assumed it saves a little weight. the wind deflector seal seems to lift a bit at the corners, allowing water to seep under it & run into the headlining through the holes. (Mine showed evidence of dirt & dust for about 4-5 inches from each end on the underside of that seal) i took the wind deflector off, (bit fiddly with the 4 springs, 2 coil springs & 2 leaf springs). I used white spirit/turps to thoroughly clean & degrease the trough & wind deflector seal before using the silicon. to remove the wind deflector I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently lift one end then carefully peeled it off by hand, it’s an interference fit at the factory (unless a previous owner has siliconed it in) so lifts fairly easily, be careful not to distort it as you lift it out, it’s fairly stiff anyway but the less distorted it is, the easier it will be to put back. i then released the headlining from the top of both front doors (you’ll need to take the grab handles off too), so that I could get at the underside of the trough. I then taped up the holes as far as I could reach, then used a black silicone sealer to partially fill the trough from above, the tape stops it going under the sunroof cassette and staining the headlining. I didn’t put much silicone in. About 1-2mm in depth & spread it as evenly as possible with a small screwdriver, one with a blade the width as the trough is best, as the silicone will get pushed about when you put the wind deflector back in. You need to do that before it goes off, putting all the springs back as well. I used a piece or wood & a plastic mallet to ensure the wind deflector front seal was well seated into the trough as you need to make sure there’s no air gaps left under it . i also taped up & put the silicone into the 4 holes for the 4 springs. Just make sure you put them back before it sets and then check from underneath to make sure there’s no gaps in the silicone there. i then left it for a day to dry before I removed the tape, I also kept checking that the tape stayed while I was putting the silicone in the trough. if water was collecting in the cassette, it’s likely the drains are blocked, I used a length of flexible net curtain rail (it’s basically a coiled spring with a plastic outer sheath), it fits perfectly int9 the drains. You can see the front 2 at the front corners of the cassette with the roof open, the back 2 you’ll need to access the drain behind the rear wheels, (you should see 2 small Dia hoses hanging down). I just fed the net curtain rail through all four to clear out any debris. i also covered the sunroof with a waterproof sheet while it was drying. it can be messy, but it’s if you can find the other thread t has more detail about it. Small screwdriver, small snipe nosed pliers ( for the springs), there’s very little space above the headliner for your hands, so getting the tape on under the holes is fiddly. just take that bit slowly, you don’t need to remove the A pillar trim but it helps although d advise against it due to the airbags plus they are a pig to get out & wires to put back, that also caused an air bag fault that needed resetting at a garage. there are also curtain airbags on most cars above the drivers door, so be very careful there. As long as the ignition is off, they are safe, just be careful. Nothing sharp! I have a set of plastic trim tools which helped a lot, they’re cheap enough online. sorry its a bit long winded but there’s a lot involved, none of it is difficult, but most of it is awkward to access & a fiddly (springs, getting yr hand between headliner & cassette with tape etc) but, it did work, haven’t had a problem since. ill dug out the tube of silicon I used for the name, it’s an adhesive sealant rather than just silicone, so will stick to the cassette & wind deflector better than just silicon. good luck.

Search for:- ‘leaking panoramic roof’

Possibly! If yours had the same problem as mine & most others then yes. Have a search (use ‘everywhere’) of the forums & you should see my post and a link to the U-tube vlog I found. its awkward to access but I managed it on my drive. You do need somewhere dry though! I’ll try to find my other post tomorrow but feel free to remind me as I’ve got ACC issues (it’s stopped working! 1st attempted fix today didn’t work) that’s occupying my mind!)

Yes, never stated or implied that I wasn’t going to or that it wasn’t needed. However, wasn’t quite prepared for it to weigh 22kgs when I picked it up!

There is a train of discussion that questions whether the current & emerging tech levels are going beyond useful, my Leaf bings & bongs far too much for comfort and it’s virtually impossible to catch the message/ warning indication that only ever comes up for around a microsecond , so rarely actually useful & the lane keeping system, which is ‘always on’ has, on numerous occasions, tried to pull me towards oncoming traffic on the country lanes around me. At least the Audi switches that off below 40mph. the auto braking (again in the Leaf), in the 14 months I’ve had it, has activated when there’s nothing in front of me at least 6 times. It’s quite scary! Luckily no-ones ran into me when it does it! technology is generally good but it has to work when needed on’y & not randomly when it gets confused! we’ve always had MMI systems, but they used to be just switches!🤣

We used to swap the points etc out for an optical system (Luminition) on RN land rovers back in the late 70’s/early 80’s, when we borrowed them for canoeing trips to the Pyrenees & Alps, it improved mpg from 9 to 15! Handy as the fuel wasn’t free! im not exactly a Luddite though and I’ve had to wrestle and argue from both sides of the ‘why change this, it’s always worked’ and ‘just because it’s always been done that way doesn’t mean it’s still the best way to do it’ arguament when we were redesigning systems for the MoD. Sometimes it’s a no brainer to just go for new, cheap, off the shelf tech or a massive, expensive redesign because the current system isn’t fit for purpose & other times, the effort & cost of redesigning a bespoke system would just be far too disproportionate to any benefit gained to justify.

I’m not questioning the advice or the fact that the BMS does need coding. what I’m questioning is the design philosophy behind it as I don’t understand why they changed a perfectly viable system.

Usually, any kit r software upgrade to allow you to use Apple car play will also work for Android Auto, so it’s a ‘one size fits all’ thing.