56Doc

Try cleaning the electrical connector 1st. If it’s now working, it sounds like either a mechanical or electrical poor/ loose/stiff connection (mechanical connector could be stiff, so not moving with car to axle movement, or damaged?) has to be cheaper than a new level unit. I had to replace one in a Lexus RX450. £500!

Audi routinely offer decent deals on warranties, £1k for a year is quite a lot to me but for peace of mind could be worth it, it’s really only down to how you feel & how much confidence you have in your car.

😁 Glad you like it, ever so slightly jealous🤦🏻‍♂️ I love the air suspension and the drive, it’s the best ride of any car I’ve ever owned, (bar the 1st Allroad!) Ive been through a foot of snow and & 2 foot of water in it without any problem. mines the lower power (218) version, I’d wanted the 272bhp sport version (seemed the best version for my needs) as I wasn’t sure I could afford to run a BiTDI but the 218 I found was the only one with the interior trim I liked, so I bought it but, when I had it serviced they said it had been remapped and explained that apart from the BiTDI, all the other engines were mechanically identical, they just had a different map, it certainly goes very well when I ask it to! It seems quicker than the original V8 Allroad I had, which is saying something. Lot more torques in this one. id have liked the 360 camera, (last car had it, miss it tbh but at £2500, no chance!) not sure now that the Ltd slip diff in the sport would have been worth and it looks a lot better with the windows tinted.

They’ve had it about 6 yrs min. I think. Bought from new.

There were no codes on my 04 Allroad, 2010 Q7, there might be but, the systems electrical rather than electronic on the old Allroad, so nothing digital involved.

Well, as I said, I don’t know anything about them as I’ve never owned one but they love it. Very economical, and it seems to have plenty of grunt for such a small engine on the odd occasion I’ve driven it.

I’d heard of the powershift issues but little about any eco boost engines. my brother has a fiesta with the 3pot eco boost and they love it.

👍

Interesting, I’m not sure about dismantling the dash or the quality of Chinese stuff bought through Aliexpress though! did you have to remove the centre console to get the AC unit etc out? im also a bit concerned about the reliability of the new unit. I’ve bought stuff via Aliexpress before and it failed soon after purchase. No chance of getting my money back from them, they just kept fobbing me off knowing that there’s no recourse or anything to make them refund you, sent stuff back only for them to deny it’s arrived, even after I’d sent it recorded delivery & had a received receipt & signature. I’m guessing there’s no other aftermarket source for head units? i hope yours continues to work ok, but I’m not all keen to buy from China anymore tbh, even though that looks a good system.

I had a garage do it as it’s not easy on a drive! But forum discussions at the time (if you do the job yourself) suggested blanking off the air pipe and running the pump to check for leaks (dont run it for more than 1 minute in ten) it’s just not designed for it and will likely burn the motor or compressor seals. if you can pressurise it another way to test, I’d do so.

Hi Steve, I had a 2004 V8 Allroad, it had cam chains (x4) on the back of the engine, same as the later versions. the chains had started to rattle, which was why I sold it on after I tried having the tensioners replaced to fix it, made no difference, so as I couldn’t afford the repair, I sold it before it became a bigger issue! The chains were a £6k job to remove the engine & replace them all.

PS; it’s not really safe to drive at all TBH with collapsed suspension on 1 side, and defo not at any speed over 30. My Allroad had the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch when it blew a bag. sorry!

I agree with Steve, one of the bags has probably gone. best to get it sorted asap as the pump will keep trying to push air into that side and it’s simply not designed or able to run for long periods, it will fail in fairly short order (been there, done that!😔), it takes the 40A Relay with it too. ‘oem’ parts are made by non Audi specialist manufacturers/suppliers, eg, air pump is same as used by Mercedes, RR, Range Rover, Bentley, etc. so I bought a pump from the US manufacturer for £300 instead of £1300 from Audi. single Audi airbags arent too bad, but if it’s more than one, I’d look for the US made upgraded versions that used to come with a lifetime gaurantee and replace all 4. depends how long you plan to keep it tbh.

PS; You can now get both UV & IR (heat) reflective tints.

Had my windows tinted (film), cost about £200 I think, couple of hours, after 2.5 yrs years, no signs of peeling, fading, splitting or bubbles etc. much cheaper & faster than replacing glass.

Oh, forgot to ask, as it’s a 2016 model I’m assuming it uses ‘Adblue’ by law. BUT, it’s worth getting yr specialist to check the exact date as if the car was made before it became law to have it fitted, then it can be disabled and you’ll never have to worry about it or refill it again! It only became an MOT checked item after it became law that the system had to be fitted. before that date it was just an optional extra. Be aware that as the system fluid level drops, and parts of the system dry out, the drops left behind will dry out and crystallise, eventually, this causes the system to stop working and it needs cleaning/flushing, no big deal unless it goes into ‘limp’ mode!

Nice motor, as said elsewhere, ‘genuine’ Audi parts are mostly made by other specialist parts companies, filters especially! Tiptronic gearboxes, defo NOT sealed for any period, I had my 1st in a 2004 V8 Allroad, specialist advice was oils & filter every 40k, so it’s a bargain at whatever price compared to a possible failed box. not sure if the BIturbo has the same water leak in the ‘V’ design issue that the other V6 diesels do but it’s worth asking your specialist/ keeping an eye on it as it’s not a cheap fix. is the BIturbo cam belt or chain? Other possible issue may be the air suspension, but that seems far more reliable now than the 1st couple of generations. However, just be aware that again, aftermarket versions of the airbags (US made, guaranteed for life) are often better quality and a LOT cheaper. Air pumps too: If you ever need a suspension air pump, they’re not made by Audi either, one company supplies them to Merc, RR, Range Rover (virtually every make that uses air suspension) etc. Audi wanted to charge me £1300 for pump + labour. I bought one direct from the US manufacturer (after an internet search) for my 2004 Allroad for £300 and had it fitted at a local garage, 1 hour!

Interesting! Didn’t know you could just change the screen to get car-play/android on it. id thought it was a separate module that needed changing. how easy was that and I’m assuming it needed coding afterwards! cheers

I bought an automotive silicon adhesive sealant, (black) online. normal domestic (eg; bathroom) type silicon, doesn’t have the same adhesive quality, it’s why you can peel it off to a degree. ill dig it out for the trade name but, I’m sure there are plenty of different makes. I did it myself due to so many reports of garages & dealers being unable to fix it. but I found that a steel spring net curtain wire was perfect for Cleaning the drains out, (there’s 4, the rear 2 are best accessed from the bottom end, rear wheel well I think), it’s flexible enough and the outer plastic coating means the steel spring doesn’t damage anything. i just used a drinks bottle with a nozzle to dribble water into the sunroof cassette to see if & where it came out. i did have to get the airbag module reset afterwards as the airbag light had come on after I’d removed and replaced the A pillar trims to release the headlining. Be careful you don’t pinch/pierce the airbags (if fitted) with a trim removal tool when you release the headlining above the front doors and behind the A pillar trims. and good luck!

If you read through the above thread, (see my long my post on 24th March) it covers that, same fix as all the other holes in the wind deflectors seal trough. it worked, I also left the roof covered to stop any rain getting in (small tarpaulin tied to roof rails and under wiper arms) for 24hrs to allow the mastic to dry thoroughly too. there are numerous threads both here & on U-tube covering the subject. good luck

Hmm, been following this thread with interest, in a previous life I was a naval engineer, so I’m very aware of just how corrosive salt water can be, even over a short time and of course vented discs have an ‘inside’ that you can’t see, that’s corroding away merrily that close to the sea. ceramic discs will stop it all. Coated discs, as Charles said, if it’s just a surface treatment, it clearly won’t survive as a surface very long and will then allow the swept surface of the disc to corrode, but, as it’s the swept area, there’ll still be the nasty grinding noises when you 1st use the brakes. the coating, assuming it covers 100% of the entire disc (inside & out), would still stop those areas corroding but at a much lower cost. depends how much the grinding gets on your nerves. be interesting to see how you get on if you go for the coated discs, I’m fairly close to the coast (7 miles) but it’s not too bad here for salt spray etc, we get some, but only in high winds & storms.

I’ve used ‘LLLparts’ before, theyve been very helpful, even when I couldn’t find the parts in the catalogue. So if you can’t see what you want in there I’m sure if you send them an enquiry, they’ll be able to give you both the part numbers and the ‘exploded’ diagrams.

Searching for wheels for your model year A6 c5, it looks like they would have an offset of 43 (ET43). But that still doesn’t tell us if the twin spokes would fit!

Not sure what the offset is for standard wheels for either the 2wd model or the All-road, mine came with 18” but the ride was rough, so I bought these, I believe they were an option on purchase.

If you add your car to EBay, it’ll tell you if they’ll fit straight on but I don’t think they will.