56Doc

Cars booked in with a non-franchised specialist for a ACC calibration next Thurs.

That’s was the 1st thought but the connections were reported good (I haven’t checked them myself) & the sensors weren’t removed from the bumper. There’s also no error codes recorded by the car. Im concerned that if I pay for a calibration, it may not flag up whatever’s causing this if it isn’t just a calibration error. (The final phrase in the error message is the most confusing, ‘No sensor vision’. ) That central camera above the mirror, I thought, was only for the lane keeping assistance, which does work consistently. No other systems appear to be affected. ive been out to the car today & the ACC system switches on with no error messages on the drive but I Haven’t driven it. it’s the fact that it sometimes works, but only at slow speeds (urban, 30-40), as soon as I’m up to motorway speeds, it switches off & shows the error message & simply will not come back on even if I stop for a break. It’s being a bit elusive & inconsistent! not sure what the next step is now! I’ve seen one video that showed some corrosion on the connector block for the sensors which caused a problem but, that also flagged as an error code, which mine isn’t! im going to ask a non-franchised Audi specialist tomorrow if he can help, but he’s not an electrics specialist, with anything mechanical, he’s damn good. But I’m going to have a look at the sensors & connectors asap, weather dependant! Just to provide ev they connections are good.

Not sure if this will take it to the other thread.

Ok, I’ve got a wierd issue with my ACC. The front bumper came off to replace the headlights (constantly fogging up badly tried for a couple of years to fix but couldn’t, so just got new ones!) Anyway, lights all good but the ACC now only works sometimes at low speeds but not always, simply doesn’t activate & shows the error message ‘Audi Braking guard & ACC unavailable: No Sensor Vision’. if it does switch on it works fine until I hit motorway speeds when it just switches itself off, displays that message & doesn’t come one again. If I don’t use it 7ntil I hit the motirway & up to speed, it just doesn’t do anything except display the same message no errors showing! Plugs & Wiring checked, all coding checked, nothing erroneous found. Now tearing hair out! anyone got any ideas?

Previous sunroof leaking question was posted by T6NYY, with a title of ‘LEAKING PANORAMIC SUNROOF’. hopefully you can find that too.

Here’s the link to the u-tube video, it’s good & there are details below of how & what I did. https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments We get this leaking into the car when the drains get blocked, even partially, so clear them 1st (see below, net curtain flexible rod is perfect) if you can find my original posts, I put some more details of how to access the front edge of the sunroof cassette. if you open the sunroof and look down from above, the wind deflector has a thick hard rubber seal along the bottom that just pushes into a trough in the cassette. (It’s about 4-5mm wide) that trough has a series of holes in the bottom. Daft idea but assumed it saves a little weight. the wind deflector seal seems to lift a bit at the corners, allowing water to seep under it & run into the headlining through the holes. (Mine showed evidence of dirt & dust for about 4-5 inches from each end on the underside of that seal) i took the wind deflector off, (bit fiddly with the 4 springs, 2 coil springs & 2 leaf springs). I used white spirit/turps to thoroughly clean & degrease the trough & wind deflector seal before using the silicon. to remove the wind deflector I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently lift one end then carefully peeled it off by hand, it’s an interference fit at the factory (unless a previous owner has siliconed it in) so lifts fairly easily, be careful not to distort it as you lift it out, it’s fairly stiff anyway but the less distorted it is, the easier it will be to put back. i then released the headlining from the top of both front doors (you’ll need to take the grab handles off too), so that I could get at the underside of the trough. I then taped up the holes as far as I could reach, then used a black silicone sealer to partially fill the trough from above, the tape stops it going under the sunroof cassette and staining the headlining. I didn’t put much silicone in. About 1-2mm in depth & spread it as evenly as possible with a small screwdriver, one with a blade the width as the trough is best, as the silicone will get pushed about when you put the wind deflector back in. You need to do that before it goes off, putting all the springs back as well. I used a piece or wood & a plastic mallet to ensure the wind deflector front seal was well seated into the trough as you need to make sure there’s no air gaps left under it . i also taped up & put the silicone into the 4 holes for the 4 springs. Just make sure you put them back before it sets and then check from underneath to make sure there’s no gaps in the silicone there. i then left it for a day to dry before I removed the tape, I also kept checking that the tape stayed while I was putting the silicone in the trough. if water was collecting in the cassette, it’s likely the drains are blocked, I used a length of flexible net curtain rail (it’s basically a coiled spring with a plastic outer sheath), it fits perfectly int9 the drains. You can see the front 2 at the front corners of the cassette with the roof open, the back 2 you’ll need to access the drain behind the rear wheels, (you should see 2 small Dia hoses hanging down). I just fed the net curtain rail through all four to clear out any debris. i also covered the sunroof with a waterproof sheet while it was drying. it can be messy, but it’s if you can find the other thread t has more detail about it. Small screwdriver, small snipe nosed pliers ( for the springs), there’s very little space above the headliner for your hands, so getting the tape on under the holes is fiddly. just take that bit slowly, you don’t need to remove the A pillar trim but it helps although d advise against it due to the airbags plus they are a pig to get out & wires to put back, that also caused an air bag fault that needed resetting at a garage. there are also curtain airbags on most cars above the drivers door, so be very careful there. As long as the ignition is off, they are safe, just be careful. Nothing sharp! I have a set of plastic trim tools which helped a lot, they’re cheap enough online. sorry its a bit long winded but there’s a lot involved, none of it is difficult, but most of it is awkward to access & a fiddly (springs, getting yr hand between headliner & cassette with tape etc) but, it did work, haven’t had a problem since. ill dug out the tube of silicon I used for the name, it’s an adhesive sealant rather than just silicone, so will stick to the cassette & wind deflector better than just silicon. good luck.

Search for:- ‘leaking panoramic roof’

Possibly! If yours had the same problem as mine & most others then yes. Have a search (use ‘everywhere’) of the forums & you should see my post and a link to the U-tube vlog I found. its awkward to access but I managed it on my drive. You do need somewhere dry though! I’ll try to find my other post tomorrow but feel free to remind me as I’ve got ACC issues (it’s stopped working! 1st attempted fix today didn’t work) that’s occupying my mind!)

Yes, never stated or implied that I wasn’t going to or that it wasn’t needed. However, wasn’t quite prepared for it to weigh 22kgs when I picked it up!

There is a train of discussion that questions whether the current & emerging tech levels are going beyond useful, my Leaf bings & bongs far too much for comfort and it’s virtually impossible to catch the message/ warning indication that only ever comes up for around a microsecond , so rarely actually useful & the lane keeping system, which is ‘always on’ has, on numerous occasions, tried to pull me towards oncoming traffic on the country lanes around me. At least the Audi switches that off below 40mph. the auto braking (again in the Leaf), in the 14 months I’ve had it, has activated when there’s nothing in front of me at least 6 times. It’s quite scary! Luckily no-ones ran into me when it does it! technology is generally good but it has to work when needed on’y & not randomly when it gets confused! we’ve always had MMI systems, but they used to be just switches!🤣

We used to swap the points etc out for an optical system (Luminition) on RN land rovers back in the late 70’s/early 80’s, when we borrowed them for canoeing trips to the Pyrenees & Alps, it improved mpg from 9 to 15! Handy as the fuel wasn’t free! im not exactly a Luddite though and I’ve had to wrestle and argue from both sides of the ‘why change this, it’s always worked’ and ‘just because it’s always been done that way doesn’t mean it’s still the best way to do it’ arguament when we were redesigning systems for the MoD. Sometimes it’s a no brainer to just go for new, cheap, off the shelf tech or a massive, expensive redesign because the current system isn’t fit for purpose & other times, the effort & cost of redesigning a bespoke system would just be far too disproportionate to any benefit gained to justify.

I’m not questioning the advice or the fact that the BMS does need coding. what I’m questioning is the design philosophy behind it as I don’t understand why they changed a perfectly viable system.

Usually, any kit r software upgrade to allow you to use Apple car play will also work for Android Auto, so it’s a ‘one size fits all’ thing.

Did try that but nothing came back. Batteries charged fine from an alternator for decades before Audi slapped a digital BMS in there. Personally, can’t see the reasoning behind it. Certainly don’t see any need. The current & voltage regulator on the alternator was always a simple & effective means of control, also very easy to replace if it did fail. Individual unit coding was originally introduced to try to prevent theft of the car for parts but as its now common knowledge, coding isn’t really required as it just makes maintenance & upgrades more complicated. & replacing something from another manufacturer becomes almost impossible, even seats! a simple ‘reset’ function for the BMS in the MMI would be more than adequate. Same as any TPMS after tyre or wheel swaps. Coding the BMS is just serious overkill. Tbh, it would have been as easy for Audi to program the BMS to recognise when a battery has been replaced and reset itself as it was for them to prevent it resetting after its lost power. RE-Coding when you replace, renew or upgrade something, requiring specialist equipment is now really just a money making attempt on the part of the manufacturer. coding to prevent theft was a good idea but IMHO, its now about 3 decades beyond its use by date as both the kit & knowledge is readily available to anyone including the light fingered brigade, if they’re prepared to fork out a chunk of cash & learn how to recode. But Im not, as I’d so rarely use it, it’s just not worth the effort

No worries

Audi retrofits do do it, my son had his A6 done there if you need the hardware. Think it was around £500. but I think your car will already have the hardware, so a software update should do it. (Same as my 2015). That cost about £70 but its now bundled with a map update for £99. have a look at this website, you can find out if you just need a software update. Search on:- ’satnavmapupdates’ - (Sat nav map updates).

Thank you, I was hoping it would at least mean the car would be drivable afterwards. But must admit, I don’t see how the BMS wouldnt recognise that the battery was now charged (because it’s been changed.) but, if that’s how it works, it’s how it works.seems a bit OTT. doesn’t exactly prevent theft for parts if all the bad guys can access all the coding tools anyway. I often wonder why they still do it.

Sadly that found lots of others with various battery related issues but nothing concrete about coding. so here’s a slant on the issue. If I connect a 12v supply to the jump points under the bonnet, would that mean I can change the battery without any coding requirements afterwards? has that been tried before?

Thankyou. I’ll have a look

Did try that but nothing came back.

I’m led to believe that there’s Vcds coding required after replacing the 12v battery, so not quite a diy job (no Vcds coding kit or knowledge!). is that true r can I just swap it & drive off?

Possibly, depends on the hardware build state of your car, some were built with the hardware but if the original buyer didn’t spec that option, it wasn’t enabled. My 2015 Allroad did have the hardware so I bought an SD card to do the Android auto upgrade. If you need the hardware as well I think it’s £500-1000 now. Not sure. Try Autologics or Audi Retrofits, sure they can do it.

Either them or ‘Audi Retrofits’ just down the road in Slough could do it.

Hi Dan, have a quick google for ‘Audi specialists near me’, I know of a couple near Slough but I’m sure there’ll be one closer to you. if it’s just software/Vcds coding I’m sure any non-franchised audi specialist will be able to help you.

Does anyone have access to wiring diagrams? im trying to Work out where to pick up a feed from the matrix headlamp ‘all weather light’ to switch some foglights I’m fitting. cheers dave