56Doc

Steve, found this Ad on EBay, it has the size & offset details. (7.5J x 17 - ET 25) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225783472013?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8xMc12cKTTW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QsBH-A3FQcm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi Steve, No tyres, just the wheels, as to spacers, not sure at all. They might just go straight on. Someone else on here may know more, there’s also a few wheel upgrade sites that can calculate the clearance for a given set of wheels on specific cars. i had some photos, but can’t find them, possibly deleted. I’ll have another look as they’re currently covered by a load of cardboard at the bottom of pile of various car related bits that’s accumulated over the years, a bit awkward to get at, if I can get at them, I’ll get photos and details of size & offset.

Hi Steve, No tyres, just the wheels, as to spacers, not sure at all. They might just go straight on. Someone else on here may know more, there’s also a few wheel upgrade sites that can calculate the clearance for a given set of wheels on specific cars. i had some photos, but can’t find them, possibly deleted. I’ll have another look as they’re currently covered by a load of cardboard at the bottom of pile of various car related bits that’s accumulated over the years, a bit awkward to get at, if I can get at them, I’ll get photos and details of size & offset.

Hi folks, Ive still got a set of 4 OEM 17” Double spoke Alloys from my previous 2004 Allroad sat in my garage taking up space. they’re in almost perfect condition with only 1 wheel picking up a stone chip. (I’d had them refurbished a few months before I sold the car - timing chan started rattling, on the V8, that’s a £6k engine out job!) Can’t recall the offset but I think it’s different to the standard C5. FREE to collector- BS22 9QJ may be able to transport to various mid to southern England places or close as I get around a bit paddling.

The videos pretty good for releasing the coil springs and the plastic hinge arm. but it doesn’t show removal of the 2 leaf springs. the end of those (front, but you can’t see it, it’s underneath the moulding) has a small locating hole in it, push that end down slightly to release it and you should then be able to slide the spring forwards to release the back end and lift it out. I used a small screwdriver to push down with and a small pair of long nose pliers to pick it out.

I used a small flat blade screwdriver to help ease one end out then just gently lifted the seal free inch by inch by hand being careful to keep the deflector as straight as possible and not bend the seal (it appears to be metal reinforced), suspect if it gets deformed, it won’t fit correctly.

Hi Andrew, I ran a 2004 V8 Allroad for 4/5 years and had similar issues with the styling of the more recent versions. i ended up with a 2015 version. However, the diesel V6 engines mine came with have a few issues that can crop up if they don’t get the proper servicing, turned out mine hadn’t, all fixed now but at a cost (cam chains, suspected service/ heavy foot issues from previous owners) design issue with a coolant leak in the V, which is another costly adventure. But, I love the car, very comfortable and having been effectively commuting to my mums 144 miles away in all conditions since last October, started travelling at 65 instead of 70-75 and found the fuel economy to be crazy, been seeing 49-50 mpg out of it. However, as Gareth said, if your current Allroad, (must admit, I loved my old Allroad, drove it through 2’ floods & a foot of snow at times, no hassle at all, did everything I could have asked) , still does everything you want it to do, then why change it, trade in or even private sale isn’t likely to get you much after so long. In my case, as my wife drives a yaris hybrid which is used mostly for work, so is getting wrecked and is far too small for me get vaguely comfortable in even on short trips, I did think briefly about about swapping mine as it’s not healthy to use it for short trips (DPF) but, nope, love it too much, so I’m looking at a 3rd car for all the local (2-3 short trips a week for shopping, taking the grandkids out, walks etc within 50-60 miles) trips that we do and I’m considering an older EV. I’ve been searching & researching for about 4-6 months, looked at Audi, BMW, Mercedes, even Teslas but the Hyundai Ioniq EV or PHEV (old model, discontinued in 22/23, not the newer Ioniq5 or 6), Kona or Kia Niro are coming out top of my list. (My Audi has a dpf, so lots of short trips can kill it easily), prices are far less than buying new and the efficiency & reliability of Korean cars is among the best, along with 5 & 7 year warranties respectively, so I’m hoping to find a car still within the warranty period too!

Hi folks, Cars a 2015 Allroad btw. A recent trip north early in the day with the sun out showed up a very annoying gap in my sun visors: the sun was just over my right shoulder but with the visor swung round to the side window, it doesn’t reach back far enough to cover the rear of the side window next to my head.so I had the sun in the corner of my eye all the way up to Brum. does any know if any Audi model (possibly the A8?) has ‘extending’ visors? I had a Lexus RX with them, when released from the clip (so they can swing round), you could move the visor along its hinge bar, to reach further back when swung round to the side. Theres also a gap either side of the interior mirror, has anyone else found that an issue, if so, how did you fix it! As I haven’t seen the old ‘Geoff & Tracy’ type sun screen bands for years😄 Cheers all!

Sorry all, should have posted this weeks ago but been busy helping mum, the lift in her flats is busted so she can’t get out! I cleaned the narrow trough the wind deflector seal sits in with cotton buds and glass cleaner (no residue). there are 2 small (about 1 1/2” long) leaf springs (1 either side), that help push the wind deflector up into position when you open the roof, there are 2 holes in the roof cassette under each of them as well, so they got the same treatment. the 2 coil springs (1 each side again), are a bit tricky to remove / replace but a bit of care and patience worked the 2nd time!🤦🏻‍♂️ I managed to drop the sides of the headliner but couldn’t release the front, so I could only reach in underneath for about 8”, I taped up the holes over the 1st 8” from each side of the car in the seal trough from underneath (bit tricky with tight access, best option I found was to use small bits of tape (about 1-2” long) on the end of 2 fingers!), then applied a generous squirt of black silicone adhesive sealant into the bits of the trough I’d taped up, refitted the leaf springs and wind deflector, (I used a couple of bits of wood to tap the seal down into the trough against the pressure of the silicone) and left it for 24hrs before testing with a watering can! make sure the seal sits right down into the trough, as I don’t think there’s much clearance when the roof closes. it’s worked though, no more water getting in. hipe this helps.

I found this on U-tube, I’ve removed the wind deflector on mine and there’s some wetting under the seal in both corners, so hoping I’ve found the culprit, too wet today to do anything else. https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments

Did the link work? Haven’t tried copying from u-tube before

Main dealers don’t teach their technicians how to find faults, they get taught how to use the diagnostic computer. There’s a big difference. leaks are basic engineering, which they just don’t seem to teach anymore!

Try this, (not sure if it’ll work!) https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments

Got the same problem, seems to be coming from somewhere in the front corners of the sunroof, but haven’t found the source yet. havent asked Audi yet either, found a few useful videos on you tube, last one looks more promising, I’ve removed the wind deflector and there’s signs of water under the seal in both corners, guy who posted the vid said he put silicon sealer in the trough for that seal, cannot put much in as the seal won’t go in properly if I do. Hoping for a bit less rain tomorrow!

Many issues later, I’m close to being able to think about the seats again. (Cam chains, in ‘V’ water leak, engine & gearbox services, oil leak from warped rocker cover (£5k), then it was the Xmas tree lights on the dash from the failed steering rack, another £2k+! a seized rear wiper motor (Audi designed crap, gearbox so corroded and so little grease,) also wiper arm was completely fused to the motor spindle so resorted to drilling it out and replacing both (another £150 for the bits) Got all that from fixed to find water in bath front footwells from the sunroof drains, drains are clear (ran both water & a cleaning (curtain rod) through them, so now I have to figure out how to remove the door aperture trim to get at the drain pipe in the A pillar to fix those leaks! Any advice on that will be gratefully received! there’s obviously a join in the pipe that is not sealed very well, very, very annoying!

My 2015 3.0 tdi dies about 45mpg at a steady 70 & 30-35mpg around town. But my overall average is around 40, yours might be better, just dont floor it until it’s at full temp! it improves a little in summer. gearbox is full oil (both, hydraulic & Lub) at 30-40k intervals (I think - not sure without digging out more info). It’s also advisable to get it flushed as well. timing chain, not sure if that year had 4 or a single but, yup, any hint of a rattle, walk away! Just had to have mine done at 65k so had the ‘in Vee’ water leak fixed at the same time. Nearly £3k for both.

My car was showing same fault, reset, it would just come back after a short time, but was starting and running ok, it rattled on start now & then and occasionally under acceleration, advice I was given was that if it rattled on every start, then the chains/guides/tensioners etc all needed replacing soonest. not sure what other symptoms you might have, there’s a lot of sound insulation in the A6, so it’s difficult to hear the engine on start with the doors & windows shut. But either way, good luck.

I know the cam chains are a big job, Audi charge about £2500-£3k I believe. my engine (2015 3.0tdi) needed a lot of new oil seals to go with it too. Job took a garage 4 days (with snags though, should have been 3).

I’ve used the ‘LLLPARTS’ website to help locate stuff before, it’s free to use. but it sounds like your cam chains have stretched. ( had mine done in Nov, tensioners we’re on their limit, so I caught mine in time.now have a dash like Xmas tree, so waiting for everyone to go back to work tomorrow to start calling) have you searched for Audi specialists in your area? & have you been able to confirm it’s the sensor not the chains? Think the engines back then had 4? But not sure.

Been throwing it down all day, so I’ll try tomorrow. but someone else has said they had the same symptoms x caused by a defective relay. anyone else come across that?

👍

Sorry, what clusters? Lights? I have had condensation in the drivers side headlamp unit for a while, it’s clean, so not water ingress, haven’t found any dodgy seals there yet (I’ve looked 2 or 3 times over the summer) another thought is that the 2 faults (Xmas tree & rear wiper leaking washer fluid) are NOT connected, just a coincidence, we drove through some very heavy weather for 7 hours on Wednesday (yup, 7hrs for a 230 mile trip, not the worst one I’ve done but it’s in the top 5). so I’m also wondering if something in the engine bay got soaked/wet/flooded but it then took a day or so to soak into something critical. Thoughts guys? engine starts & runs ok, gearbox & brakes work ok, all lights are good, infotainment is all fine haven’t checked windows, sunroof, climate control, seats etc (I will tomorrow) but stuff like ASC, TPMS, PWR steering and air suspension are all showing faults. Oh, there are zero fault codes in the ECU. Checked 3 times since it happened, absolutely nothing. Any other thoughts

A voltage check is good start, both static and with engine running, doing a full load & discharge test (if it starts the car ok, it’s probably ok), is a lengthy process as a spot check of load current is meaningless without testing how long it can sustain that load. (before I retired I was an electrical/electronics and systems engineer, so I’ve had experience of high power wet batteries (U.K. Subs use quite large ones!) if the off-load/on-load voltage check seems ok and no-one has any other ideas, then I can call the RAC or wait until I can talk to the Audi specialist, I’m not ripping the battery out for a check at Halfords, too much hassle digging out radio codes etc. does anyone know how to do a re-set of all vehicle electronics? Suspect that might work.

Tailgate wiring all looks good and I’ve not had any electrical issues until now, and drove back from Leeds Wednesday, so wouldn’t expect the battery to be at fault. also, can’t drive it! No power steering, the 1 mile back from where it when pear shaped was done at 10-15mph due to the number of bends & corners! It was a real wrestle. However, I will check the voltage tomorrow and report back here. my local Audi specialist is closed this week (think they’ve probably gone to Poland to see family). So I’m stuck!

Hi Y’all, ok, this is a new one on me: my rear wiper started playing up, so assuming it’s the usual issue caused by the design fault of the washer tube corroding inside the motor, I ordered a new one. (Yet to arrive). driving back from town yesterday, the rear wiper came on permanently by itself, then stopped after a few minutes (not parked, just stopped), I assumed the fuse had blown as the window was dry. silly boy! Almost immediately, the dash lit up like a Xmas tree with a succession of system faults. Biggest issue was the sudden loss of power steering. i wrestled the car home and looked up fuses for the rear wiper, thinking that perhaps the fuse hadn’t blown and the motor being full of water had caused a volt drop in the system, causing multiple warnings. Only found 1 fuse marked ‘wiper motor’! so, today, removed the tailgate trim panel and disconnected the motor, hoping that would fix things. Nope! so the car is still undrivable.😔 Having disconnected the motor, do I now need to perform a full re-set of all electronic systems, if so HOW please? Anyone got any other ideas? somewhat hacked off as only had the cam chains replaced, oil leak repaired and the standard water leak in the ‘V’ done along with a major service, gearbox oil change etc back in November. That wasn’t cheap, so feeling a tadge low with the car unusable again! Hoping someone’s come across this before! Please😁 Cheers Folks