56Doc

Look up the website - ‘Satnavmapupdate’ I’ve used them for both MMI & map updates via an SD card. Worked flawlessly.

Hi Ryan, I don’t have a clue BUT, I know someone who might! Lukas at Autotek in Clevedon, he’s an Audi specialist, runs an old RS himself. I’m sure he could help but you might have to get the car to him. Look them up but Their tel no is: 01275 873693

That means it was just dirty contacts, WD 40 washes some of that off but it leaves a sticky residue that will collect & hold dust & dirt over time. Weeks, maybe months. So it’s best to get some contact cleaning fluid (any electrical or car parts supplier should carry it) to wash off the wd40. (Think of wd40 as a sticking plaster).

This is what google says about it. Yes, wheels from a 2011 Audi A6 Allroad (C6/C7 generation) are generally compatible with a standard 2011 Audi A6 . Both vehicles share the same 5x112 bolt pattern, a 66.5 or 66.6 mm center bore, and similar wheel offsets. However, there are important factors to consider regarding tire size and overall fitment: Bolt Pattern & Hub: Both cars use a 5x112 bolt pattern and a 66.5mm (or 66.6mm) center bore, ensuring they will physically bolt onto the hub. Allroad vs. Sedan/Avant Specs: The Allroad often uses a slightly different offset to accommodate its wider stance, and it typically runs a taller tire profile (e.g., 225/55R17 or 245/45R18) than a standard sedan. Tire Size Differences: While the rims fit, the tires on the Allroad might be wider or taller than what is recommended for a standard A6, which could lead to speedometer inaccuracies or rubbing if the car is lowered. Suspension Clearance: If you are using the Allroad wheels and the original Allroad tires, the tires may look too "meaty" or tall on a standard A6. Conclusion: The rims will fit perfectly, but you may need to swap to standard A6 tire sizes for optimal performance and appearance on a non-Allroad model.

Looking for something else I spotted these, which may answer the question! https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0CJIBEI_yBGoXChMImI3CkfLbkwMVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAs&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F167550624099%3Fchn%3Dps%26_ul%3DGB%26mkevt%3D1%26mkcid%3D28%26google_free_listing_action%3Dview_item&psig=AOvVaw32W3rca_2Syqfki2fm062W&ust=1775656468793744&opi=89978449

Thanks Steve, fortunately all Ok, little one had become very jaundiced then there were issues at the hospital. Daughter is still very distraught. It’s been hell for them but little one is fine.

Niether did I!🤦🏻‍♂️

There’s another useful site I found.: Tire size.com to compare different tyre & wheel sizes. However, there is a better site, I’ve lost the link but it had vehicle details in too, so it could check which offsets fitted, bodywork/suspension & brake callipers clearances too. Try a google search, although I suspect 17” wheels may fit that M.Y. Brake callipers & discs being the big issue. (I think it was only the 1998-2005 models that used 17” & 18” wheels.). Not certain though. if you can’t fit smaller alloys, some winter tyre suppliers can also provide a set of steel wheels, which may be an option & they may know if you can fit 17” wheels.

Hi Steve,,my car is post facelift, so the headlights wont hysically fit yours anyway.

That’s a rough way to find out about an accident!. When I got mine, it was missing heated seats, so I Bought a set of heated & ventilated seats from Germany, then when it went up to Audi Retrofits I had the 360 camera & matrix headlights fitted, but the battery went flat, it then it developed an ACC radar problem. A month later & after a new battery (£300!), A trip up to Hereford showed up a cooling issue! So I can’t use it just now. It’s 11 yrs old now but only just over 80k miles. I love it, even though I run an EV for all the local stuff & to see if I could use an ev exclusively. (So far, I don’t think so!) So the Audi will stay for a few years yet (I’ve had it 4.5 yrs now.) Reckon it’s the best car I’ve ever had, just not cheap to maintain! 😆

From what google said, it maybe just some levelling sensors but it might be worth asking someone with a lot more knowledge if they can be by-passed in vcds to a default setting. I use an Audi specialist in Somerset, so I can ask him Tuesday about it all if that helps. But, what’s wrong with yours?

I asked google too, sadly it doesn’t look quite as easy as you’d hoped! So you’d need someone to do the Vcds coding & possibly fit suspension level,sensors, although I suspect there’s a way round the sensors bit. AI Overview +3 Retrofitting a non-xenon (halogen) 2012–2018 Audi A6 with OEM xenon headlamps generally requires VAG-COM/VCDS coding to avoid errors. While the physical units fit, the car needs to be coded to handle different resistance (cold/hot checks), headlight levelling, and shutter mechanisms for bi-xenon function . Without coding, you may experience flickering or dash errors. Reddit +1 Key Considerations for Retrofitting: Coding Required: You must update the Central Electronics (09), Instrument Cluster (17), and CAN Gateway (19) to recognize the new xenon systems and disable halogen-specific monitoring. Hardware Changes: Full OEM functionality often requires more than just the light housing, including new suspension sensors for auto-levelling. Plug-and-Play Alternatives: Some aftermarket bi-xenon kits with dedicated CANbus wiring harnesses can work without coding, though they are not factory-grade solutions. Connector Differences: Halogen to Xenon swaps typically require adapters for the different wiring harnesses. For a reliable retrofit, you should plan to use a tool like VCDS to map the new headlights, or you may face ongoing bulb-out warnings or improperly functioning shutter systems.

I don’t know but I know someone I can ask. It’s possible that you’ll need some coding changes so the car recognises them as part of it. It’s all to do with the various anti theft stuff the6 added to cars to prevent the cars being stolen for their parts. What year & model is it please & I’ll ask. Cheers

Have you tried swapping the bulb for another or new one? It’s a lot easier, so worth trying. Or, take the bulb out, check the solder contacts on the bottom, if their not bright & shiny, clean with a bit of high grade sandpaper or best, a fine emery cloth. If you don’t have any, use a sharp blade or screwdriver tip - gently! The oxide build up can be enough to drop the voltage, although dropping it that much would be unusual. A broken wire woukd give you zero volts. The fact that you have A voltage there inplies a high resistance contact, in in plug/socket or the bulb normally. If it’s the plug/socket then just make & break them a dozen times to scrape the pins. Whatever you do, don’t use wd40, that’ll make things worse in the long run. (It leaves a sticky residue that dirt sticks to & it damages wiring insulation over time. It’s ok to use to c,Dan things, just wash it off afterwards).

Steve, Sorry but life went pear shaped Thursday night, had a panicky daughter ring us at 10pm asking if we could go up (to Leeds) straight away. She’d gone back to hospital with serious concerns over her Newborn son, so we left just before midnight! Arriving about 4:30am. All ok now but it was a very fraught 36 hours. I didn’t have time to think about the wheels, sorry. But I’ll be heading up to Northampton for a weekend at some time soon as well. We can try again then. Dave

Ok, I’ll let you know what time we’re going to be leaving Leeds as soon as I do! Hopefully before that W/E!

Have you tried ‘LLLParts’ online? If you can’t find it in their parts catalogue, it’s worth dropping them an email. (Link is on their website.) they’ve always been very helpful.

Ah, yeah, my wife has the same issue. I’d be coming back south later on the Sunday if that’s any use?

Ah, ok. You can’t get out lunchtime?

Ok, that would work, We don’t have a def plan on times yet but I’d hope to leave around 10am at the latest, it should take about 2.5hrs to get to the North bound services. If around 1230-1300 is ok for you? Can you what’s app or text me so I can call when we’re 30 mins or so away or if anything changes en-route.m 07941 721 168 Lights, EBay, had lots of trouble selling on there before! So I’ve avoided doing it since🤣

Hi Steve, wheels - looks like we’ll be heading up to Leeds on the 17th April (Friday), to see our new grandson, whereabouts are you? Wondering if we could meet en route. Probably use M5, M42, M1. Also, as you may (I’m hoping! 😅) have the contacts, do you know anyone looking for a pair of A6 C7 (2015 car) xenon headlamps? I had matrix Headlamps retro-fitted so the old ones are redundant now. Both in very good condition & sat in boxes just now. I’ve put a for sale notice up on the forums, i put them up at £150 for the pair. (Seen them for £150 upwards each on EBay).

I’ve had matrix headlights retrofitted to my 2015 Allroad, so the old bi-xenon units are up for grabs. I’ve seen these on EBay for upwards of £150 each. But I’ll be happy with £150 for the pair. Could post but haven’t priced it yet. Anyone interested? Cheers folks

I managed it without totally removing the headlining. Apart from anything else, disturbing the airbags can be an issue. I only disturbed the left A pillar trim & that caused an airbag warning light. If you disturb all the curtain air bags too, apart from the risk of setting one off, it’s likely to bring up more faults, that’s assuming you avoid damaging any of them. It makes the job a lot longer too! I put a detailed report of exactly how I did mine further up this thread & managed it over 2 days on my drive. (Sealant needs 24hrs to set & I wanted to test it before putting everything back,) But good luck to anyone that’s still got issues. It can be done at home cheaply with some patience!

No problem.

Ah, that’s quite a way. But, I may be getting up to my sisters in Northampton at some point in the next couple of months, I could bring them with me.