Stevey Y

Hi you should not have to pay a brass rupee towards the repair, but in saying that if its never had a new clutch I would be expecting that one some time soon, thats a fairly expensive job as the parts are not cheap, the cylinder change is about I-2 hours. Steve

Hi buy Carly at your own peril, can't understand why people buy it as its a generic software used by all the cheaper scan tool companies and poached from the OBDEleven brigade whom I was a firm fan of until they started issuing updates that wipe out existing functions on my Pro subscription, we also have the tokens scenario where is all they are interested in is selling them to perform one click apps which most of the time dont work but they still take the tokens, even started taking tokens for SRI, I finally bit the bullet and bought the update version of VCDS yes it seems expensive but when you use it its like night and day, example SRI reset one button and ten seconds it does both the service and inspection reset, the car will only regenerate when the sensors tell it to so no amount of motorway driving will promote any major passive regeneration due to the design of the exhaust, I have finally settled on Dipetane as my additive of choice as it contains nothing but hydrocarbon which causes the soot particles to be smaller therefore they burn off more quickly, the car wont be regenerating as often during winter as the ambient air temperature being cooler means the EGR is open less frequently. Steve.

Hi you wont see any leaks until its gone completely and then only a light misting as the chamber is double sealed, I personally would go for a new cylinder and fluid, any history of a clutch change?. Steve.

Hi if you look at the respective years of each car I would say the flywheels are cheaper for the 08 and therefore there may be a margin of profit in the parts. Steve.

Hi I had four master cylinders over the 270 k I covered in the car so I am fully aware of what you describe, if they replace the cylinder and the fault recurs technically under the law of consumer rights they have not repaired it if the replacement was within the thirty days, I dont know what the milage is on your car but the slave failure on C7 models is rare but not unknown, I would stipulate that the system be flushed and refilled with Comma ESP4 as I found through experience that cheap Dot4 causes premature wear on the seals, from memory there was a thread on here where a guy had replaced his clutch assembly and had the same problem so I suggested he used Comma and it cured the problem, it turns out the Audi brake fluid had been upgraded to accommodate the new type of seals they are using and ESP4 is as near as you will get to genuine fluid without bankruptcy, the problem is the cylinder seals when at rest allow air in so at the beginning the pedal stays up a while when used as it sort of self bleeds in to the brake master cylinder, this will only persist for a while until the volume of air exceeds its capacity to self bleed, think about it, air bubbles rise in any viscous fluid. Steve.

Hi there is no way of testing the master cylinder but from the description of your problem I would say 100% that is your problem, the cylinder seals are allowing air in to the system, but in saying that I have come across the situation on higher milage vehicles where the clutch master has failed so the cylinder was replaced then the fault reappeared a couple of weeks later, it turns out the slave cylinder is doing the same thing, so ended up replacing both, this is not unusual on Audis because of their obsession with using plastic rubbish in major wear items. Steve.

Hi thats better the fault you have has nothing to do with the nox sensor, its the level sensor in the adblue tank which if you fill it with the appropriate amount of adblue so its more or less full, then do a tank level sensor reset that should cure the problem, even if the nox sensor was there and had failed it would give a code to that effect but would give a zero reading on live data. Steve.

Have you checked the boost hoses for leaks and splits a real give away is the oily crud around the leak, this wont throw up a code.

Hi as I said they are always changing things, I changed the DPF on my Passat back in the summer the donor car was a year younger and had a DTSB engine, fine as mine is a DTSA which has two nox sensors, the unit came with sensors so happy days except where 2 was supposed to be was a blanking plug so I had to use my old 2 sensor, turns out they had trouble with the 2 sensor so on later models so they deleted it, now the tricky bit nearly all diagnostic software will tell you its the downstream thats gone even though you dont have one its the first sensor thats failing, also had it where I have replaced sensor 2 but the fault remains as sensor 1 can't correlate the information its getting from sensor 1, so when 1 was replaced the fault went away, two questions, what leads you to believe its sensor 2 and how many miles has the vehicle covered, unfortunately you can't always trust the diagnostic codes given and you have to read between the lines between the code and what you have on the engine physically. Steve.

Hi most of what I know about any vehicle I have owned and used as a cab has been derived from interrogation of anyone I get in the cab, to be fair they are always pretty forthcoming when they work out that they are not just getting a load of random questions from an idiot, most of what I know about the newer injection systems came from the chief tech at Bosch Europe whom I was taking to Heathrow we had traffic problems on the way so just over two hours of grilling, he can't have been bored witless as he shook hands at the end and gave me a real fat tip. Steve.

Hi its around the DPF, after I think, could be you have three of them some later models had that but I think they have given up with that one and carried on with two, if you plumb in your VIN on LLL carports it will drag up a diagram. Steve.

Hi I think you missed the point, or maybe I did not explain myself properly, what I was referring to was the amount of posters on here that have had an off the peg remap done by their brother or some local Herbert with a van and a laptop and not as you pointed out a proper remap, they then have problems related to what they have mapped out, fact, mapping out EGRs will raise engine cylinder head temperatures, fact, upping boost pressure on a turbine will cause premature wear on the unit, I have a contact at Essex Turbos who would be quite happy to explain about the rash of over mapped Focus RS that were running well over 400bhp that were consistently shredding intake impellers due to overspin, the turbo was big enough but never designed for that type of boost requirement, Nissan are a completely different as the engines are built and balanced to a very high standard to accommodate the local markets desire for More and more power, made me smile when you mentioned Ford 2.0 engines, having spoken to a Ford engine tester on the track at Dunton he explained that if you wanted 180bhp out of a DW10A forget it it would not take the increase from 140 bhp -180 bhp without destroying something, as power demands increased PSA were required to strengthen elements within the engine to cope with the extra power hence DW12 C and onwards until no reliable power gains were achievable, then they swapped to the DW12 which started with 175 bhp and by the end of production ended up with 200 bhp that was as far as the emissions/ fuel consumption allowed, at no point did he mention that Ford were planning to produce any model with no cat or DPF, which brings me to the point of when a lot of these companies delete the lot you have to sign to say the vehicle is only going to be used on private roads because they dont meet the legal emissions standards, I also note the other maps you mention are quite mild by manufacturer standards which in the case of Mountune/Ford are within the prescribed boundaries of the built in reliability factors, the other more extreme tunes are dealt with at Mountunes other establishment over the back of me in Hutton where they tear the engines down and beef up everything, these are classed as racing engines and I would assume therefore are not road legal, in essence what I am driving at is people buy these cars often quite old and have a cheap remap but can't afford to fix them when they go wrong due to age and milage. Steve.

Hi the fault will have to be deleted.

Hi sorry, I dont think there is anyone on here can translate. Steve.

Hi LED in general, they are normally mounted to high on the vehicle and dont have a very pronounced beam cut off, if you look at older cars the people who think its better are looking at the lights after fitting as from the outside they are brighter but the truth is from behind the wheel you actually see less, [no beam pattern] which is why they are now a MOT failure, the only reason the continental manufacturers get away with over height lights is because the stupid E.U. allowed it. Steve.

Hi the O.E. injectors are Bosch but I am led to believe Delphi do them as well, there is nothing that you can change on them or clean unless you have specialist equipment, new injectors will need coding.

Hi the best people to go see for injectors are United Diesels, they are brilliant with advice and will give you options, as for doing it yourself if you have never tackled something like this before I would use a garage as the injectors go through a rubber seal on the rocker cover which will also need changing, the seals are cheap TPS but they will probably suggest you need new fuel feed pipes for the injectors which is rubbish as if you have someone who knows what they are about and wont over tighten them the old pipes will go again, from a personal point of view with that in mind your milage I would change all four as these are Piezo injectors and are very delicate and precise in operation, the old type of injectors had a detent ball and spring arrangement which when the engine was revved would bounce and overfuel hence black smoke, Piezo on the other hand are controlled by electrical current to make the Piezo slices expand and contract and never over lift the pintle this is supported by extra Venturi that are 0.6 which is finer than a human hair and these allow precise addition or decline of fuel up to five times in any given cylinder cycle therefore creating almost perfect fuelling, I have used Dipetane for a few years now, what a wonderful product, as its a hydrocarbon it absorbs water from the combustion process and burns it. Steve.

Hi absolutely sod all else, for that sort of money at an independent garage you wold get, oil/filter, pollen and air filter, what you are being charged for is some Wassoc to wander around underneath with a torch and a phone camera trying to find the smallest excuse to generate more overpriced work, when you look on this forum there are loads of people who have been told by Audi that this bush is gone that needs changing, the best one ever on another forum was your brake pads need changing because they are 50% worn, when are people going to wake up to the fact that full Audi service history is not worth a cup of cold goats urine, better an honest independent that values your custom. Steve.

Hi its universally accepted that most of the ECP parts are rubbish, I bought an NTK Maf f rom them and had nothing but trouble with the replacement and the original, found out later that the car was not accepting the adaptation of the new units, bought a Bosch unit and that adapted straight away, 20k later you could see where the extra money went, if you unplug the Mac and it runs better its definitely the Maf dying. Steve.

Hi get the car scanned. Steve

Hi the throttle butterfly wont move until the engine is running as its a fly by wire set up, might be the immobiliser or the crank position sensor, got any codes. Steve.

Hi get it plugged in that should flush out the fault my suspect is the clutch position sensor on the master cylinder these are plastic cr@p and frequently fail the body control module has to receive the correct signal for the pedal being down to allow it to start, no signal no power to the start button to initiate cranking. Steve.

Hi remove the pipe at the PCV then run the engine if there is an excessive amount of oil/gas coming out the diaphragm has failed, run it for at least five mins. is the MAF the original unit as if that is failing it will cause lot of your problems. Steve.

Hi the problem is the EGR is before the throttle body but superseded by the PCV system which sucks oil and water vapour out of the crankcase and tries to burn it, could be the PCV diaphragm is failing and allowing too much through, in saying that if you disconnect the Ma and it runs better thats a sign of a failing Maf. Steve.