Stevey Y

Clifford I really appreciate your sense of humour, nice one. Steve.

Hi could be a collapsed PCV diaphragm, please let us know the outcome. Steve.

Hi bit confused, where is the breather hose on the air filter, not talking about the PCV hose? Steve.

Hi loads of control modules in the boot and if they get damp loads of trouble, may well be worth looking under the carpet in the boot if any of them are damp dry it out and treat the connectors both sides male/female with some WD40 if that works find the leak. Steve.

Hi I doubt its the turbo as if that was gone the howling would be there all the time sounds more like a split boost hose. Steve.

Hi nice scanner, I think the nox sensor could well be the trouble as when these sensors go the ECU can't get the information it requires to meter the fuelling and temperature from the gas stream i.e. when the sensor detects a rise in nox the ECU adjusts the fuel/air mix to cool the engine so the nox comes down, the hotter the engine the more nox produced, now we have a sensor where the heater core is failed this heats and then its calculations are made by a sample chamber which makes the calculations based on how long the core takes to cool, therefore when the sensor is no longer able to give plausible information the ECU will go to a default setting which normally makes the fuel ratio higher to prevent piston/valve damage from heat caused by it running lean. Steve.

Hi more than three opinions stating the obvious, I like that , I really think that you need to get an engineers report which will clarify the mechanical problem but as for your friendship with the garage owner, sorry no one can help you with that on here and I get the distinct feeling that what you have been given is not what you want to hear, two engines on the bounce I think I would be questioning my own judgement, as for mates rates that works only if the job is done correctly, other than that go elsewhere and pay the right price for a job that has the elements of redress if the part fails or shoddy workmanship. Steve.

Hi unfortunately its one of the hazards of mass production, I bought a thermostat for my mums Fiesta it was a sealed unit they all were, but mine just happened to be the one they forgot to put the thermostat in before they sealed it. Steve.

Hi Gareth the SD4 engine was derived from PSA and the same engine was used in the MK4 mondeo 2.2, if looked after the engine was bomb proof, I know I ran one of the mondeos up to 360k, the ingenious engine was flawed from conception suffering with bad injectors, inlet manifolds and worst of all a DPF that they now admit was faulty hence the compensation system which as far as I know is still running, what it did was blocked frequently and would not regenerate itself this led to too much back pressure which in turn annihilated the turbo, worst case scenario was it blew the cylinder head studs, GAME OVER. As for Audi specialist on this forum I think our combined membership knowledge may well qualify us a tad. Steve.

Hi problem is noted and I can appreciate your predicament but I really think the explanation is a smoke screen, I can honestly say I have only come across possibly two cases of seized pumps and in both cases the pump delivery capacity was terminated as the drive dogs on the pump were snapped which had no effect on the cam belt whatsoever, if you think about it why would something on the engine that is made primarily of softer metal be able to bring a much harder material such as a camshaft to a halt, I think they did not fit the kit properly which leaves you with the fall out from valve damage etc, its not fair or right whichever way you look at it, THEY DID THE WORK, I rest my case. Steve.

Hi looks like the low pressure EGR cooler is blocked depending how badly that would throw it in to limp mode as soon as the fault occurs more than ten times it will then put the EML, the p0299 is a byproduct of that as the turbo wont go full boost as it thinks the DPF is blocked, which it is not just the cooler and valve.

Hi I think they are spinning you a yarn, the fuel pump is normally cam driven but in the event of it seizing the locating dogs on the pump will snap so it has no drive, looks like someone didn't tighten the tensioner properly as if it was down to another component seizing the belt would have just snapped but the tensioner would have remained in its correct position. Steve.

Hi if it was seized I very much doubt cranking would even be an option in the last 40 years I have seen many seized engines and the general rule is they start to rattle the oil light comes on and they squeal like crazy before they stop. Steve.

Hi go on to LLL carparts website put in your vin and search sensors it will throw up a diagram I believe there are three, one before the cat one after and one a lot further back assuming your model has the second Adblue injector station on the lower part of the exhaust. Steve.

Hi go find a sensible garage for pity's sake, if it was seized the start spray would not have got it going again, absent any recent service might even be a blocked fuel filter, the braking thing is most likely worn/warped discs, dont give the clowns a happy Christmas at your expense, you can tell they are wrong uns as they are quoting telephone numbers before they have diagnosed what's wrong if the engine cranks it aint seized. Steve.

Hi sounds more like an injector problem have you had a leak off test? Steve.

Hi its probably the brake pads warming up thats why it stops after a while. STEVE.

Hi yes anything that looks like its sweating is bad news. Steve.

Hi if its a diesel you have probably shut it down before its finished a regeneration, they get very hot during this and the revs are up and the fan remains on to cool the engine, the reason the idle is back to 800 is because you have aborted the regeneration and it goes back to normal until the soot level rises again. Steve.

Hi right now we are getting somewhere, if the floor has been soaked that could well cause a problem as there are multiple modules under the carpet on the drivers side which if exposed to moisture will play up its not corrosion but moisture on the plugs that cause most problems as moisture causes the current to swap between the pins inside, pull up the carpet and have a look, pull the plugs and give both male and female sides a generous coat of WD40, the problem with the carpets is they are not waterproofed at the back, a guy who does our local mobile valeting told me BMW and MERC are ok when wet vacuumed as they have a waterproof membrane under the carpet, Audi on the other hand do not, they also have a vast range of comfort module units which are daisy chained into the wiring loom, believe me when I say the biggest nightmare on A6/A4 2013 on is the wiring as it tends to be very fragile where water is involved, therefore if you get at it now I dont think its a disaster as the fault frequency is only on 1. Steve.

Hi any chance you can post the picture of the fault readings a bit bigger please as its blurred and I can't even see what it says on full magnification. Steve.

Hi think you will have better luck replacing the whole injector, they come as unit so I would doubt you would get that part anywhere except from an injector specialist who would probably want to recon your existing unit. Steve.

If you search the A6 C7 and the A4 parts of the forum there are more than enough posts on the subject, it probably is a wiring fault and from memory a couple of them just bypassed the switch just to get a running vehicle, you might have to go back a couple of years but if you get stuck ask Gareth [Magnet] and he has an uncanny knack of pointing people in the right direction. Steve.

Hi Steve, sorry to hear of your problem which is not unusual the system is badly designed, I am assuming its the level sensor that is the cause of your problem that is housed in the tank all other sensors/heating elements are in the pipework that runs from the tank, therefore if the tank is depleted get it refilled and at the same time get a level reset done by a VAG specialist as I have a theory thats why they asked you to run it down until it wont start, the wont start bit is activated when the Sensor realises there is not enough adblue, have you any fault codes to offer as that may give some illumination to the problem, as for customer service there is more chance of the Second Coming, if you use a VAG specialist even if you do get it replaced it will be cheaper. Steve.