Stevey Y

Hi sounds like a real deal Exide are very good batteries, hit the buy it now, please remember to code the new unit its simple and from memory I think the Carista is capable as long as it reads the old code just invent your new code using the old code but changing the last three digits. Steve.

Its highly probable there is a fuse for both L/R as if you think about it the way they do it could cause safety issues if they both worked from the same fuses try that before attacking the wiring as the way its routed it goes places you wont want to. Steve.

Hi unfortunately you will always get the odd hangers on I had it with my car you have to get to the mindset of ignoring the codes that do not affect the running and scan once a month to clear any irrelevant codes, Audi thought they were really clever designing a software that registered a code for everything, but its not clever it just gives the uneducated something to pay for and worry about every time it went to the dealers for a service. Steve.

Hi since you have established that the motor works and the piston moves the next port of call would be the rear calliper slide pins as they seize along with the pad slider surface, you can buy aftermarket repair kits for the slide pins for about £20 could well be a build up of old rubber on the pins which means the rubbers are probably shot. And yes the operation of the motor is fairly loud like a clockwork toy. Steve.

Hi thats the PR number for the car, there is only one number for the whole car they dont have them for each individual part. Steve.

Hi it could well be a seized piston that side, take the motor off and put it in lining change mode if the motor works its the calliper thats seized, all the water in the fluid collects in the piston chamber and rots the pistons. Steve.

Hi I think the one your after is LZ7L. Steve.

Hi it will only have one PR code which should be stuck with owners manual it will have the engine code and gearbox code as well as the paint code. Steve.

Hi Odis is probably better but it would only be of real benefit in the event of wiring problems it is more or less an idiot proof dealer level platform that guides the average FITTER through the diagnosis and repair procedure, you strike me as being a savvy chap so the VCDS may well be as far as you need to go, its well thought out and has pretty much all you will need from basic functions to coding injectors plus the support site is amazing and more than helpful as its world wide therefore getting answers from a larger contribution base. Not trying to defame your sons company but I have never had much success with Napa products and with the Audis I have worked on I have only ever used Bosch, Varta or Yuasa, as Gareth always said try Tanya batteries on eBay I have used them a few times and never had any problems, yes they may be more expensive but in years to come you will see where the extra money went. Steve.

Oh the deprivation of having to work something out for yourself, I often ponder how I ever got on without having someone spoon feed me on demand. Steve.

Hi when you say scanned it begs the question with what as a lot of generic cheaper scanners wont pick up a lot of faults as the software wont support that. Steve.

Hi its quite normal for the revs to increase as you lift the clutch could be a faulty clutch position sensor. Steve.

Hi as you look at the engine bay from the front both sensors are at the back on the lot hand top from memory the front one is for the DPF and the back one is for the low pressure EGR both sensors are the same but I found it good practise to replace both as if one is faulty the other wont be far behind it, make sure you adapt both. Steve.

Hi the pressure sensor reads the pressure inside the DPF this also helps with the soot calculation to trigger regeneration, the ECU uses the sensor information to start a regeneration, other contributing factors are EGT sensors, if one of those is playing up it wont regen properly, go back to Carly and see if it will give you a code my money is on one of them being P2002, the adblue delete was not a good idea would it not have been easier just to clean the diffuser nozzle in the exhaust just after the cat easy to get to and only requires a spray bottle and warm water, from experience the A6 is heavy on adblue anyway. Steve.

Hi try running the car with Dipetane, I use it and its much cheaper on eBay, say £21.50 for two litres and seems to work better than Archoil which is about £26.00 a litre its very good for cars that only do short journeys like my cab, because its a hydrocarbon it makes the soot particles smaller therefore they burn off at a lower temperature, goole it. Steve.

Hi unless you have VCDS or can borrow someone its a garage job provided they have the correct diagnostic software, Sorry. Steve.

Hi it is most likely that the new clock spring will need coding but on earlier models such as yours you can sometimes get away with fitting it without the ignition on and then with the ignition on turn the the wheel from lock to lock six times, failing that it will need to be coded so make a note of the code on the new unit, I would not advise fitting the new unit with the power on as in the unlikely event it does deploy it will A try and remove your face and B render the control unit dead which will cause a lot more problems. Steve.

Hi if you replace anything to do with crash protection its likely it needs to be readapted to the car as do airbags parking sensors, new seatbelts and modules. Steve.

Hi quite possibly, if you consider the dynamics of the problem it means the sensor has had a chance to warm up, the working strategy for all the emissions related functions are to warm the coolant as quickly as possible then maintain the working temperature within a very tight perimeter to optimise low NOX/HC emissions, lucky its not diesel as your current problem would play havoc with regenerations, at the moment its never going to be terminal, just annoying. Steve.

Hi they break down over a period of time until they die completely, I can only conclude that it might be at the stage where cold coolant affects its operation until the car gets warm then after its restarted it may well reboot and operate properly, what you have described is classic sensor failure in the making there are probably two coolant temp sensors on the engine one of which works the gauge and the other by a calculation based on the information from the gauge sensor but it can't understand what the gauge sensor is sending it when cold. Steve.

Hi if you look at most of these mid range diagnostic platforms they invariably want payments for tokens to do things or a yearly subscription, they all use the same software and if you are a frequent user over a couple of years you will have paid two thirds of the price of VCDS which wont require tokens or a subscription to perform required functions and has lifetime updates for free, with the added bonus its as good as dealer level kit. Steve.

Hi I think your problem may well be the coolant temperature sensor which will either be mounted on the thermostat housing or on the cylinder head that is what controls the operation of the fan, as far as the water pump being vacuum controlled thats wrong they are thermostatically controlled therefore the thermostat that controls the shroud on the impeller will only command the shroud to move when it is reported to the ECU that the coolant temperature is high enough to move the shroud from the impeller allowing it to circulate the water more efficiently, they very rarely seize in the closed position, that would cause rapid overheating, they usually seize open in which case the car takes forever to get warm in winter months, if you look carefully you will see the control wires coming out behind the cam belt cover and disappearing into the connector for the engine loom, the only real way to check the temperature sensors is with live data diagnostics so in view of the relatively cheap price of the part [dont buy it from Audi] its probably worth taking a punt and replacing it. Steve.

Hi yes dual port motor that plugs in to the washer bottle via a rubber seal, sometimes the connector gets cruddy but not found one like that on an Audi yet, just failed motors as like with everything they have gone for the cheapest item they can find, as far as the relay clicking it wont do that if the motors dead. Steve.

Hi not really odd as both will fail when the motors knackered if its one not working its a blockage except if its the rear washer thats normally the nozzle or the water feed to the wiper has corroded itself to death which will sooner rather than later kill the motor. Steve.

Hi its the motor in the washer bottle fairly easy to change and the part wont break the bank unless you buy a genuine part. Steve.